Rubber roofing as sound deadener?

ok today a buddy and myself installed new boston acoustic components and a precision power amp and he brought the rubber roofing material. He has used the same material in his Chevy S10 and it is super quiet with 2 coats everywhere. He coated the exterior door skin "reach your hand inside the door pocket. He used a heat gun to make the material tacky and easier to mold. After sticking the material on the surface he used a small wooden roller to smooth it out. So, I have rubber on 2 different surfaces. We live in Ohio and he has had the rubber in is truck for over 4 years and has never smelled or nothing was oozing out of the doors. I have yet to drive the truck but just shutting the front doors I can tell a difference in the way it sounds. For what it is worth he said he spent $75 on the roll and he has coated his entire cab even the roof with 2 coats and we did the 2 front doors of my truck and there is still more on the roll. I don't care what some have said I am sold!!!

 

People typically feel better if they spend more on something

 

I would hope a product designed to cancel noise would work better then window flashing that costs 10% as much.

I'm not arguing the effectiveness of deadener and my opinion has not changed from my last post.

I'm just standing up for the people who have used it and saying they aren't "retards" as you called them. They may not be audiophiles like yourself or have an unlimited budget.

Either way you look at it the flashing does work. I would like to see the same test show the results of the same thickness material vs each other.

Testing .125" think material vs .25" think material is a joke. When these BS tests are done they are always done to make the one product look better then the other. Stack the layers up so they are equal thickness of products and then the data will be unbiased.

 

Alright, let's get a few things straightened out here. I'm going to call a couple of you out. It's not because Matt and I are trying to be ass holes (I'll tell you when I'm being an ass hole) but it's because I want to make sure everyone has the right info and we don't spread miss-information like a bad disease.

The paint on stuff helps in places where it's tough to get a CLD but it's not worth it for flat panels. It's way more work and doesn't work even half as good. I've used Second Skin Spectrum and Spectrum Sludge side by side with a CLD. So I know not just that they work but that one is SIGNIFICANTLY better than the other. The liquid doesn't have a constraining layer which really lowers it's effectiveness.

As for the foam...35% eh? What type of measurement equipment did you pull that metric from? (now I'm being an ass hole but I'll stop). Foam, as you know, is mostly air. So think about it, how well does air stop noise? Foam simply doesn't have enough mass to stop any but the highest frequencies of noise. That's why Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is great. It's 1lb per square foot. The only way I could justify your statement that it was so much quieter is that your door panels must have been vibrating against each other from really extreme bass and the foam acted as a pad between the panel and the door. This is something that the foam is VERY good at.

I wouldn't go that far chief. Since you're obviously an economist, lets look at this from an economic perspective shall we?

The product you used requires more than 400% coverage to achieve similar results to a proper CLD deadener. So the crap that you're using had better be 1/4 as expensive of even less.

But money isn't the only thing at play here right? Let's say you were going to do a single layer with the CLD. Now you have to do 4 layers with the crappy stuff. Sounds like a shit ton more time. Not only that, but do you think it will all stay stuck on when you have ONE layer adhering to the actual surface of the car? Think your door panels will still fit?

Now that you've achieved the same results as CLD using the crappy stuff you've likely spent more money, taken 4 times as long to do the install, and your panels don't fit.

Give yourself a pat on the back

 

Me too...though the 10% figure I have no idea if that's the case.

That's not the way comparisons work though. Let's switch to cars for a second. What you're doing is comparing a Prius to a Mustang GT and complaining that the Prius is only slower because the Mustang has a bigger engine. Sure the Prius is less expensive but it would cost you more money to make the Prius as fast as the mustang and it will take you more time.

The point is this...if you don't NEED the audiophile results then don't do 100% coverage and go crazy like I did with my truck. Those CLD tiles are $2.65 each. Buy ten of those ($27 bucks since we're smarties and round) and use them INTELLIGENTLY by sticking them in the MIDDLE of a resonant panel. You'll spend less money and you'll waste less time.

 

You obviously have not used a selection of this type of product. I have. There is a very definite difference in results, install ease, and quality.

The "budget" question is moot. Local price of peel and seal, in 6" x25' is $22.

$35 MFM Peel & Seal Self Stick Roll Roofing (1, 6in. Aluminum)

Amazon has it for $20. That is ~ $1.75 per square foot. Your door has ~6ft square that you will cover. Lets so you do 2 layers, that is one roll per door, or 20 bucks, plus an hour or two of work. And you have done the outer skin only. So lets keep it there, for comparison sake.

You only need 4 tiles per door, for the outer skin. But go hog wild and use 6

That is under $11 bucks per door with 4, or $16 bucks per door if you use 6 tiles. In case you were wondering - 1, cut in half long way, under the steel support bar at the bottom of the door. 2 in the middle, above the steel support bar. One toward the front, one toward the rear. #4 went to the front of the door, up near the top.

There is a piece of factory deadening at the top rear, so it didnt need any additional pieces. Spread the other 2 around, if you feel like it.


So where is this "expensive" stuff, that is shown to work better, causing the problem?




I used additional tiles on the outer skin, along with a piece of Second Skin damplifier (size of this product helps) to assist in sealing up the big hole in the outer door skin.

My total cost, in deadener, per door, is about $30 per door. The rear wont have speakers playing, but I will probably seal them up fairly well too. This does not include closed cell foam or any MLV, but the difference from this simple treatment will satisfy many.

 

I went hog wild on crack....

 

I have used Edead v1 and the roof flashing is pretty much the same shit fraction of cost.
I'm betting if we had 2 tacomas both deadened and one done with roof flashing you'd never tell the difference

 

There is no such thing as peel and stick rubber roofing. You're thinkin of waterproofing membrane

 

Yeah, I have used Edead v1 as well. Quite a bit of it. It is the same. That is why edead is never mentioned as a quality deadener. Especially since they went to mylar backing.

 

I am pretty sure it is clear to everyone involved that we are referring to
Peel & Seal® is the original, 45 mil self-stick roll roofing specifically designed for low slope residential and commercial waterproofing applications. Can be used for whole roofs, flashing, patching, repairs or general waterproofing - can be exposed indefinitely.

Or, if you will, what they print on the label - Peel and Seal - Self-stick roll roofing.

 

EdeadV1 was the shittiest thing I've ever encountered.

Didn't Mir do his accord with it at first? I recall him having to redo half the car when it all started coming off.

 

Yeah that stuffs garbage. I am a commercial roofer for one of the largest and probably the best company in central pennsylvania. I've never seen a roof with that on it. Dynamat is your best bet id say if you're lookin for the sure thing

 

Intersting... What do you guys use, or do you us a vapor barrier product like that?

I have seen the asphalt rolls that are heated with torches - is this much more common.

 

For roofing? Rubber membrane, which is pretty much like an inner tube but comes in rolls. 10'x50' up to 50'x100' are what we use. .045 to .090 thickness. We also do TPO which is a pvc material. Many different types of asphalt roofing, cold and hot applied, architectural metal roofing, cladding, which is covering the side of a building with metal panels, waterproofing. I'm sure there are things I'm forgettin. Check out some of our stuff, www.rhmarcon.com

 

I was targeting overall noise reduction, not just a specific frequency. Foam is actually a common noise insulator, but not for targeting the type of noise reduction your talking about. for wind and road noise, which the doors leak massive amounts of, it is effective. The point to my post was to state that if your looking to quiet the cab of your vehicle sealing the doors with that foam is huge. >BUT< To lower the frequency of vibrations of your car, yes you must use the butyll sheets or paint goop. I understand the science and theory behind your post, but I am just sharing my experience.

 

If you want to listen to music with zero back ground noise get some headphones and save 300 bucks and 10 hours of work. Most people simply have better things to do with their money and peel n seal is an excellent money saver.

 

More power to you and your 4 layers of edead/roofing material. But just because you used it does not make it good or an effective product.

I would rather save money and time on the install and have better results.
(details can be found in earlier posts, since I am assuming you missed them. Otherwise, reading comprehension needs some work..)

(listening to my ATH-M50 cans now got to have decent work headphones...)

 

oy....

So much butt hurt in this thread. LOL

I spent quite a bit on deadening in my Tacoma. There is adifference between my Silverado(rammat) and my Taco (Blackhole). I have seen guys with the Peel n Seal and I have never used it so I wont comment on it. There is however alot of negative threads about them.

One thing I had to do was deaden the roof. It was a light sprinkle outside and my truck would sound like golfball sized hail. I need to do something on the rear wall. Since I took out the pannels and installed the sub box and amp rack there is alot of road noise coming from the vents.

 

Those are the cans I have listened to under 350 bucks. Great headphones at a great price. People always ask me if they should buy the DRE Beats. I let them hear those and they always change their minds.

I need to save up for a nice set of ear buds. Right now I have the AKG Quincy Jones ones and they are okay. I miss my MTPC. As much as I hate anything made by Monster.