Winch help

I've got the winch mounted in the bumper, but where the hell am I supposed to mount the solenoid? I know Silverback mounted his under the hood on the passenger side, but I haven't made any place to mount it there. So, where is it "supposed" to go?

Oh, it's the Warn M8000...

Thanks!

 

the solenoid I believe is supposed to go right next to the winch itself

 

That's just it - I don't see anywhere it's supposed to mount......

 

You have the Ap bumper right?

The winch goes in its designated spot. The solenoid can be attached on the top of the bumper.
I know its for the FJ but its close

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FJ CRUISER FRONT WINCH MOUNT BUMPER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS​

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• Remove the stock bumper plastic cover by removing all of the plastic body clips from the sides and bottom of the bumper cover.
• Remove screws attaching plastic cover at the front of the wheel opening/backside of the cover lip.
• Have someone help you “spread” the plastic cover outward from the sheet metal support underneath. As you spread or flare the plastic cover pull it forward and down and it will release from the sheet metal support behind.
• Remove the aluminum bumper structure bolted to the end of the frame rails. Retain the 8 nuts (4 per side) that hold the aluminum structure as they will be used to mount your new All-Pro FJ front Bumper.
• Your vehicle should look like this. The inner fender wheel liners that project downward towards the backside of the front bumper (folded back in the photo), can now be trimmed. An easy way to trim them is using a coarse hacksaw blade. Trim by hand. Trim the liner up flush with the main fender well “ceiling”.

Center sheet metal
Brace and hood latch strut.

• After the plastic cover is removed, remove the center grill section. There are two body clips and two screws on the top of the grill that must be removed. The hood will have to be raised to remove the clips/screws.
• Remove the factory hood latch strut and the center sheet metal brace. The center sheet metal brace is a long narrow brace that runs across the front of the FJ. It is attached at each end to a bracket just below the headlights. See arrow in photo.
• Remove the molded plastic “bumperettes” that attach the fender flare to the body. See Photo below

Remove these Plastic “bumperettes” on each side

• Attach the end of each wheel well flare to the body using the fender washers, 1-1/2” long ¼” bolt, and locknut provided. Place the smaller fender washer on the outside and the larger fender washer on the backside (closer to the engine compartment). This hardware will keep the flare from detaching from the body at the front attachment point that is removed when pulling the plastic bumper cover off.
• You will now need to “re-shape” the air conditioning condenser line. Place a small block of wood or plastic behind the aluminum tubing above the lower fitting. This block will allow you to bend the tubing above the block without placing too much stress at the fitting. See photo for block size/placement. Gently and slowly flex the tubing back with your thumb as per the photo below. Flex back until the tubing is vertical and looks like the third photo below.

• Now flex the horizontal section of condenser tubing until it appears as the picture below.

• If you are installing a winch, install the Hawse or Roller style fairlead now, prior to the winch installation.

• Dry fit the bumper onto the FJ frame end rail studs. You may need to “adjust” the two sheet metal brackets underneath the headlights to allow the bumper to fit over them without interference. There is a small “tab” that sticks up from these brackets towards the headlights. Bend these tabs downward using a pair of pliers so that they are flush with the rest of the bracket. After confirmation of fit and clearance. Sand, Prime, and Paint bumper. Alternatively you could powder coat the bumper.
• If you are installing a winch, you will need to “clock” the driver’s side end cap. Stand the winch on end so the motor side cap is on your bench top and the driver’s side cap is up. Hold the driver’s side cap down and remove all of the cap screws that hold the drivers side cap on to the main winch body. Carefully lift the end cap up just enough so you can rotate the end cap. “Clock” or re-index the end cap re-install the cap screws. Snug them and test fit the winch on the bumper. The handle used to en-gage/dis en-gage the spool on the winch should line up with the access hole in the winch plate in the en-gage position. See photo below. Be very careful to not lift the end cap entirely off the end of the winch as the planetary gear system could become damaged. Lift it just enough to rotate the end cap.

Cap screws that must be removed to “clock” or “re-index”

• Mount the winch controller/solenoid box as per photo below. You will have to bolt the solenoid bracket to the solenoid control box first. Next bolt the solenoid and bracket to the bumper.

• Wire the winch control box connections to the winch as per the winch manufactures instructions.
• Apply serviceable locktight to the threads if you want to ensure that there is no chance of the nuts backing off due to heavy use.
• Having someone help you, lift the bumper with winch installed up and onto the studs that extend from the frame rails. Using the stock frame rail end nuts, bolt the bumper on to the frame rail end studs.
• Adjust the bumper at each frame rail by lifting or lowering the bumper to achieve the same gap between the bumper top and the body lines under the headlights.
• Tighten all of the stock locknuts to hold the bumper on.
• Install the Hood Latch Support using the ¼” hardware provided. Install as per photo below. Tighten all hardware and verify hood latch function.

• Place the lower skid plate onto the lower section of the bumper and insert the provided 3/8” bolt through a lock washer, washer, and finally through the hole in the outboard flange of the skid. Repeat for the other side. Confirm that the skid sits flat against the bumper and winch gussets. Tighten the bolts to secure the skid.
• Too use the Winch Hook, spool out about 2 feet of winch line, reach through the hole on the driver side of the bumper and attach your winch cable end fitting (locking style or hook) to the winch hook. See photos below. Remove your hand from the access hole and plug in your winch controller (under the passenger side wing of the bumper). DO NOT hold or touch the winch line, quickly toggle the winch motor at a safe distance to take up any slack in the winch cable. DO NOT HOLD DOWN THE WINCH LINE-IN BUTTON AS IT WILL OVER RUN AND YOU CAN APPLY TOO MUCH LINE TENSION ON THE WINCH HOOK, it is only designed as a place to “store” your winch cable end fitting.

• Re-torque the nuts that hold the bumper and bumper skid on after the first 50 miles, then at regular engine service intervals.

 

No, you're right. It's remote.

And looking a little closer at the manual, I have to order a "control mounting bracket" to mount it to the winch directly.......

Also, the 2g wires coming from the control pack can't be more than about a foot or so long. So, I can't go very far with it without getting longer cables....

 

I'd have to drill holes in the top of the bumper for that. I'd rather not....

 

Yeah, I'm trying to find a place for it now......

 

Yeah. I'd like to mount it under the hood like Silverback did, just don't have the longer cable. And to getting to the posts to connect the control pack is gonna be a pain in the ass once I put the bumper back together......

 

Yeah, no worries... I'll get it figured out.

Thanks!

 

I talked to silverback about his location before. I plan on mounting mine in the same location. I don't know about the wires since mine is not here yet, but silverback gave me some ideas on a bracket, and after looking I see two ways to mount it inside, both are different but will work.
As soon as I get mine I will start on it.

 

I'm gonna stop by somewhere this evening to get some wire so I can make some longer ones. What did he tell you about the bracket? I can mount it directly on top of the wheel well in the same spot, but I'd kinda rather not. I'm thinking that may be where I need to mount my compressor when I get my OBA setup...