cubic space in back of double cab behind seat

Is it possible for me to try to build a box that will allow 1 cubic ft of volume to fit behind the rear seats of a double cab model tacoma??

 

Maybe if it's fiberglass or 1/4 inch mdf. Have you considered using a prefab with poly fill? I think the prefabs are around 3/4 of a cube. I for one would love to hear of the proper way to use it, and what can be substituted

 

A single cubic foot. Not two. With rear seat covers and back plastic pulled. With seat latch flip/seat angle mod. Yes, you can.

 

what is this mod you speak of?

 

There is a latch that locks the seat back. It has a little arm that flips up and down to catch the anchor point. Once you remove seat back you can unscrew it. There is a second hole to reinstallit so it sticks out further. This makes the rear seat sit more upright and gives more room.

 

Yes 1.0 is easy on the passenger side with the bin removed, I have 1.30 and my amp rack on the drivers side. I did cut out the child anchors though

 

Is there a thread on this? I ask because to gain the clearances I desired, I shimmed my lower and upper seat mounts, and tig welded 5/16" round bar extensions to the seat catches that bolt to the rear wall. I've had the rear seats out several times, most recently 2 months ago to add MLV over my deadener, and install my MS-8, and have never noticed anything like what your describing...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...ck-seat-mod-system-install-complete-pics.html

 

I RUN TWO JL W7 8'S IN MINE.. HAD to scoot the back seat up .5 of a inch to do it but bangs louder then mopst 12's and cost way to much but very unique

 

How about some pics????

 

I used an 8" Rockford Fosgate Punch and drew up a sealed box that would fit behind the driver-side rear seat in that little compartment. I had to cut out the child seat anchor like NOCENTS did and the box has a funny shape, but I got an internal volume that matched the spec for the woofer. I don't recall what that was, and the calculation was a little crazy due to the strange shape, but I don't think it was quite a cubic foot. Bridged one side of a 4-channel amp to drive it. Other than cutting out the child seat anchor, no other cuts or drilling.

I don't listen to rap or hip-hop, so it suits me fine, very crisp and clear. Total system upgrade cost me about $600, cheap but sounds like a much more expensive system.

I saw that other guy's mod of putting the subs under the seat, which would be really cool since I always forget those compartments are there. I did that on my old Tundra, but I never got it to seal and it sounded a little muddy. I like the crispness of the sealed box.

 

So just open your seat back and look at the latch that is bolted to the seat back. Its recessed into the seat back. Its attached with a screw. Remove it. You will see a second hole at the rear of the latch. Use that hole as the new install hole. Now the whole latch will stick out. No amount of pics or threads will make it any more simple. Just go look at your seat.

IMO MLV on the back wall is a huge waste... both of money and space.



Latch was recessed when bolted in via the two holes on the left... now uses holes on right and sticks out more. Had to do this because my custom box would not let on of my seeat backs close after I LineXed it.

 

^^Wow that's a pretty simple way to gain another inch or so. Interesting that the bracket was made that way. As a side note why do you think MLV on the back wall is a waste?

 

Because no sound comes in there. You have a bunch of vibration dampner, a sub box, and the rear seat blocking noise. Its the quietest part of the car. I was going to put MLV on the back wall on the sides of my box but it would just be a waste.

 

I agree between enclosures and equipment there is alot between you and outside noise, however the MLV on my back wall, and under the underseat plastic bins did WONDERS for reducing the exhaust drone from my TRD/Borla exhaust! Seriously, night and day before and after...

THanks for the pics and description of moving the bracket...this is useful to alot of people! Your right...seems very simple, wish I would have caught that a few years ago.

 

I have a ton of dampener on the metal where the under seat bin is as well as mlv and foam. That and reinstalling the bins helped a ton. With the interior gutted and just a driver seat it was REAL loud back there. I got to see what each bit of sound deadening did. Covering the rear wall with a giant sub box is WAY better than any MLV.

 

Thanks for the tip on the seat latch! I may have to do that