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Overhead Compass/Temp Fix

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by misc, Nov 9, 2008.

  1. Jan 17, 2012 at 7:25 PM
    #1101
    toyotatacomaTRD

    toyotatacomaTRD Senior Member

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    I fixed mine 3 times before I finally decided to send it in to Greg at siliconmethod.com. I realized soldering wasn't something I was good at. It would work for a month or two, then just stop. I am very happy to have it working again and to get rid of that "when is it going to go out again" feeling. I highly recommend his services.
     
  2. Jan 19, 2012 at 7:37 AM
    #1102
    RogueAgent

    RogueAgent New Member

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    Fixed mine last night. One of my 510s had popped completely off the board, while the other had visibly cracked solder on one end. I soldered both and am back in business.

    Really appreciate the info, glad it was an easy fix. It's sad Toyota didn't do the right thing for everyone especially considering it was an upgrade option that people pay more for.
     
  3. Jan 20, 2012 at 6:00 AM
    #1103
    ILikeTacosToo

    ILikeTacosToo Well-Known Member

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    Fixed mine two days ago. works like a champ now. thanks for the info!
     
  4. Jan 21, 2012 at 11:21 AM
    #1104
    TacomaRebel

    TacomaRebel Member

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    I got my display out but I can't tell how to get to the back side of the board to solder the connections. The top side looks fine. The board isn't screwed down. There is one post that holds it to the board. Do you have any photos where you soldered the connections? Thanks!

     
  5. Jan 21, 2012 at 11:27 AM
    #1105
    toyotatacomaTRD

    toyotatacomaTRD Senior Member

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    This should help.

     
  6. Jan 21, 2012 at 1:23 PM
    #1106
    TacomaRebel

    TacomaRebel Member

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    Thanks for posting the photos. I wasn't sure which side of the 510 chips to solder. My thinking was on the backside of the electronic board. I soldered mine & clean them with some flux first. When I put the solder to it the dang chip moved on me so then I had to get some tweezers & move it back it to place while melting the solder. Tested it out first by taking just the temp unit out & plugging it in, then mounted it back to the console piece & then remounted into the overhead. Thanks to everybody for this easy fix.
     
  7. Jan 21, 2012 at 1:40 PM
    #1107
    TacomaRebel

    TacomaRebel Member

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    Just fixed mine today. It is really easy. Mine wasn't working when I bought the 07 truck last year. I took the console out & disassembled it down to just the compass unit. But I couldn't find any photos on this forum showing where to solder the chips. Finally found some. My thinking was that the solder was on the backside of the electronic board (most are). Apparently the 510 chips are glued to the board as one of mine moved when I went to apply solder.
    I had to locate all my solder supplies, hadn't been used in 20-25 years I guess & had moved with me several times. I cleaned the chips with a little solder flux & used some lead free solder. Had to unsolder the one chip as it moved on me while I was soldering. got it almost back in position. Add solder to other sides. Took the unit back out to my truck & plugged in just the compass unit turned on the key & it worked. Brought unit back inside & put the cover over it & superglued the one clip that broke off, screwed it back down to console unit, connected the wires back, popped it back into the overhead, tried it one more time. Compass showed I was facing West which was correct, temp showed 87 degrees F. Which seems a little high the temp in S. Mississippi is 73, in January. My guess is the sun on the truck & the fact that I had just driven the truck may have an effect on the reading. If not correct I will have to see if it can be calibrated.
    Good luck to all who try this fix, it is really easy & if you know how to solder, even better. If not you can send your unit (not the whole console) to autoclockrepair.com & they will fix it for you for around $35 with lifetime warranty. cost you about $2 to ship it. They also replacement units for $135. They still beats toyota's ripoff of $900 or whatever they charge.
     
  8. Jan 22, 2012 at 11:09 AM
    #1108
    Turkeyslayer

    Turkeyslayer Member

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    Thanks just got mine done!!!
     
  9. Jan 22, 2012 at 5:20 PM
    #1109
    simple1

    simple1 New Member

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    Thanks for the tip - fix worked great for me. Now I won't have to thump the display constantly :)

    Suggestion for others - best to use a pencil tip soldering iron. After you heat the resistor, take it completely off and use some solder wick to clean the contact surfaces on the board. If you don’t have a way to secure the resistor just tin one of the board contacts with a little solder. That way you can just heat and stick, much easier if you only have two hands like most of us. With one side secured you can get a good solder joint on the other, then finish up the first side.
     
  10. Jan 24, 2012 at 2:09 PM
    #1110
    Muscles

    Muscles Well-Known Member

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    fixed mine today easy money :)
     
  11. Jan 26, 2012 at 10:15 AM
    #1111
    yellowlab

    yellowlab Active Member

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    I waited far too long to get this easy fix done. Thanks to Tacoma World and Tacoma Nation forums!
     
  12. Jan 26, 2012 at 4:33 PM
    #1112
    whatcaneyedo

    whatcaneyedo Member

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    Same old story... I googled my problem and it landed me here on page 56 of this painfully long thread. Considering how common this problem is Toyota really should have recalled the part by now. Anyways, one of my 510 fell out completely and was never seen again so I went to Radio Shack to buy a 51 ohm 1/4watt resistor. The closest thing they had was 47 ohm 1/4watt so that is what I soldered. So now I have a 47 and an original 510 in parallel. Everything seems to work again which is great but because of my limited experience with circuits I'm wondering if having the two different resistors is going to be a problem?
     
  13. Jan 26, 2012 at 5:50 PM
    #1113
    Dromlace

    Dromlace Well-Known Member

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    same situation here man. checked it out, didn't see anything wrong..
    then i read your post and figured i'd give it a shot and sure enough it worked.
     
  14. Jan 28, 2012 at 11:51 PM
    #1114
    Siliconmethod

    Siliconmethod Well-Known Member

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  15. Jan 29, 2012 at 1:42 PM
    #1115
    toniodiaz

    toniodiaz Crazy and lovely member

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    Any idea where can I find those resistors, since one of mine is broken. How can I order them, are they 510ohms anything else?
     
  16. Jan 29, 2012 at 2:27 PM
    #1116
    joew94th

    joew94th Member

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    Radio Shack! They won't look the same, but they'll work the same.
     
  17. Jan 29, 2012 at 4:24 PM
    #1117
    45longcolt

    45longcolt Well-Known Member

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    Go back through the thread some or someone chime in for this guy as they are NOT 510 ohms, I think they are 51 ohms but my memory on it is lacking right now. Also make sure they are at least 1 watt in current/temp ability. You put smaller ones in there and you gonna get some stuff too hot.
     
  18. Jan 30, 2012 at 9:35 AM
    #1118
    whatcaneyedo

    whatcaneyedo Member

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    So which is it then? 1 watt or 1/4 watt? In this link he recommends 1/4 watt 51 ohm or 47 ohm. I went to our Radio Shack and all they had was 1/4 watt 47 ohm so that is what I've used. But if I'm going to overheat something I'd like to know so that I can order the correct resistor and do it right.
     
  19. Jan 30, 2012 at 3:23 PM
    #1119
    45longcolt

    45longcolt Well-Known Member

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    If that link says 1/4 watt then it is OK as he has done the research on it enough to know that 1/4 watt is OK.
     
  20. Jan 31, 2012 at 3:53 AM
    #1120
    Siliconmethod

    Siliconmethod Well-Known Member

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    Yes, 1/4 watt is just fine for this application. The axial lead wires will help with heat removal / dissipation also (acting as a heatsink), so that is a bonus.

    Bear in mind that if you go with resistors higher than 1/4 watt they will work just fine, but the lead wire gauge is larger and will make soldering them on / adjusting them to fit a bit more difficult.

    Greg @ Siliconmethod.com
     

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