Mounting a Thule roof rack to the factory ditch on Tacoma 4-door

I tried to use the factory holes under the rubber last summer. The mounting for the stock rack in the front are not the same as in the back. The back's lined up with a little tweaking to the Thule mounting bracket (not sure which one, but I had the same rails (TK14) that used the well nuts to hold them down on my car).

So needless to say, I got half way through the install (predrilled the rubber roof line gasket), and found out the front holes would not line up the same as the back did. Luckily someone on TW is sending me his for only shipping costs. If I decide to put the rack on the truck, I will use the TK14 and well nuts (which isn't difficult to do if you take your time).

 

Subbed. I have Thule racks on my truck but would like to see what you guys come up with. I already have a tracker foot pack so I could do this very easily if it looks good

 

The hole spacing on the TK 14 is 2-1/2". The spacing of the weld nuts in the rear are about 2-7/8" and 2-1/4" in the front. I was thinking this was going to work until I read the post above and went out and measured for myself.

 

you can make that work with a drill bit, some rubber and stainless washers, and some silicone sealer

 

you can make that work with a drill bit, some rubber and stainless washers, and some silicone sealer

 

what is the total width of the TK14, is there enough room to drill another hole at 2-7/8?

 

does anyone know the hole spacing on the yakima landing pads?

 

I will get spacing on the landing pads later today, I had the TK14 measured at 3" center to center which is still off from the factory holes. I t is easy to attach the TK14 inside of the ditch with supplied hardware but with a weight limit close to the factory. We always say no more than 120lbs. The track system that I showed a picture of will get you at least 165lbs weight limit.

 

I called the local rack shop today and they also said the TK14 is 3" center to center. I also had him confirm if it would be possible to drill another hole in them at 2-1/4 and he said he thought you would be able to. So if that is the case you most likely can get them retro fitted to the factory holes. The only problem is how far apart the bars would be. It would be fine for a boat or something large, but may be too far for some accessories. Like for instance I think my roof box will only adjust to like a 40" spread and I think the bars would be wider then that.

I still may try since all I really need to carry on the roof is a canoe

 

Check out the pic on page one of the tracks, best weight limt and the barspread is adjustable

 

yeah I saw those, I would prefer not to have the tracks

 

what about mounting a track in the ditch? I'm not sure how the tracks mount, is it possible to mount it anywhere along the track or are there preset holes?

 

The Yakima landing pads are spaced at 3 7/8" so no go there as well. As far as installing tracks on top of the ditch strip we have always avoided that as the under layer tends to be a little stiffer to drill and with movement of the strip we have always had concerns with the seal staying intact. Since it rains here from time to time in the NW a good seal is a must.

 

I meant installing in the ditch and not drilling any new holes, but retro fitting them to bolt to the factory holes.

 

The tracks have have pre drilled holes at six inches apart and if you dont use em the track can have a sloppy fit especially in the middle were holes would be skipped.

 

Good to see that there is more interest in this topic...following along.

 

WHOA...really??? I'll be in this weekend! That is if you would like to look at it still.

I've been to your shop with my old Ranger. I've been looking at doing something on my canopy and the cab so I can carry long items if needed.

 

there is a factory hole in the middle for the factory racks....might be worth a try

 

I am here all weekend, come on by and ask for Randy. I will see what can be done. Did come up with this option. Mounting a rack to the bed. Works great for a cargo box.

 

What about taking a section of Yakima track, say about six inches long and bolting it to the hard points in the ditch below the rubber strip? I'd leave the strip in place and drill right through it. I would fabricate four sections of track and mount them front and rear. It would also be necessary to get some end caps (8 total) to finish the job. This setup would allow mounting to the hard points easily and removal easy too. I'm just not sure how strong it would be. I'm wondering if the track system with "plusnuts" needs to have mounting points at each spaced hole or if my idea of short sections would be strong enough. I'm looking to design an easily removable rack setup with the added capacity of Yakima or Thule.

Regards,
Chris