Just Dynamated Entire Cab

Heated up the garage, bought some flood lights, got a nice large coffee and went to town. Two nights after work.

What I did:

Floors throughout
Center console (underneither it)
Both doors (suicide doors to do later)
Rear wall
Rear storage compartments (underneith them)

Sounds like a Lexus. REALLY worth it.

Just thought I'd throw it out there and see if anyone was looking to do it to theirs and see if they wanted advice or have me help. My way of giving back to all the stuff i've been helped with here in my short time on the forum.

J.

 

Good job man! Where are the pics??

How much dismantling did you have to do? Are you in Somerville MA?

 

Yeah, I'm in Somerville MA. As far as dismantling, I was able to do everything other than the dash. That scares me, and is probably above my skill level without doing some research. I ran out of dynamat to do the rear access doors, but i'm ordering some today to make it happen. I'll tell you one thing, this is the best therepy money can by, being left alone in my warm garage.

 

looks good dude nice job

 

Why no MLV barrier though?

 

Uh oh. What is an MLV barrier? Does that answer your question?

 

I probably need to get outta here before my head explodes....

 

oh shit..note to self..drink coffee before going on TW
I thought you just blew up your truck..

 

eh, its not so much an uh oh thing. Its just a way to block airborne noises. The traditional "dynamats" of the industry stop your structural born noises/rattles etc. I refer to it that way b/c when someone says "I "dynamatted my car", they typically mean that they applied a vibration dampening mat. Although they do block some noise its only part of the puzzle since they don't stop all noise transmitted through the doors/floor/roof, etc.
I wasn't knocking your installation so dont take it that way. I was just curious if there was a reason that you didnt apply any additional layers, thats all

 

haha. Like every other aspect to doing modifications you can get crazy w/ shit. I wasn't planning on a drawn out explanation. There are a few sound deadening forums out there that can provide information overload if that is what you seek (or want to avoid)

 

You are not alone. lol.

 

Didn't take it that way at all! I was looking for advice. My goal was to stop road noise in the most effective manner. So you're saying that what type of noise will get through?

On that note, going over bumps is virtually undetectable in terms of noise, now.

 

Lol I read "dynamited" as well.

On topic- how much of a difference in sound?

 

It is noticeable.

Audio shop wanted something like 2500-3500 to do it. I would say it is worth the money and time. It is a LOT quieter. I build home theaters for a living, so I am a nit-pick for this stuff, but even then I would say it is a 60% improvement at worst.

 

I'm glad i wasnt the only one....

 

To clarify...I did not use any explosives in my vehicle.

 

Basically, mat deadener like dynamat is a resonance killer. It adds mass to a surface to keep it from resonating/ringing. This also stops rattles because it keeps the energy from being transmitted throughout the rest of the structure. Quite simply put, it doesn't BLOCK noise but rather kills the resonance that would CAUSE noise.

A noise barrier actually blocks noise. It has a mass dense enough that it is difficult for noise to pass through it. MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is about 1lb per square foot which is quite dense.

We should probably talk.

 

Well, like I said the vibration damper is going to kill the structural noises. This is why it'll sound more solid as you go over bumps and shit like that. You dont have the resonance created from the panels vibrating any more.

Additional steps would be a closed cell or mass loaded vinyl barrier to help kill the airborne noises. Wind noise, engine/exhaust drone, tire/road noise etc. As the noise passes through the panels (and vibration mats) additional layers designed to absorb or compress those frequencies will help quiet things down even further.

Then you can keep going further by doing expanding foam in the pillars, wheel well applications, hood/firewall, etc. Its all a matter of how far you want to go, ya know?

Hopefully that helps. And fwiw, one of the biggest differences I found on my last project was the roof so you may look in to deadening that area of your truck. It makes HUGE differences when its raining (kills the tin can sound) and also in wind noise. You would do both a vibration mat and mlv/ccf layer up there too.

 

Hahaha. Yeah, we should talk.

So, can I apply MLV over dynamat? Is that a waste? Or would dynamat stop the rattles and MLV stop a little more noise? Also, where is most road noise coming from? It sounds like the engine bay is the noisest part.

Don't feel like you have to answer all of this.

PS. MLV is heavy! I couldn't get out of my own way with my little 4 banger.