IS THIS A GOOD OFFER ON A 2012???

Good for you! If you are patient, and it sounds like you are, you'll find a dealer that will deal with you.

 

They knew you REALLY wanted that truck so they played you. Had you emailed all fleet managers within your state and the surrounding states you may have just found that ONE dealer who just wanted to move product you would have probably gotten that sweet deal you were looking for. My goal is to never even step foot in the dealership door before a deal is struck. As long as you got the truck you wanted and you're happy, that's all that matters. As for me I'll split pennies b/c I'm a cheap mofo.

 

A late bloomer college grad here, 36 yr old. I'm adamantly opposed to giving banks 1 cent. I hope to continue to live a debt free lifestyle. I sold my home in the rocky mtns and don't plan on getting fitted into another money pit any time soon.

 

Don't offer them anything. Email all yota dealers in a 300 mile radius and tell each one you want a (fill in the blank). Be specific as far as color, trim, etc and tell them you are getting quotes from all dealers in that radius and the low price wins your business and that you are ready to buy now. Then take the lowest quote to the 2nd lowest internet sales manager and see if he will beat it.

Also don't tell them you are paying cash until you go in to sign the paperwork because they are hopeful they will make some $ off of you when they get you into the F & I office.

 

Don't pay attention to invoice mumbo jumbo. It is a gimick. Invoice is not what the dealer paid.

 

^^This

 

This sounds like smart dealing. So don't mention a price at all and just let the offers roll in, sounds good. I think will include nearby states as well. I will take the time to email every single dealer (Fleet manager) in my state and nearby states and like you said take the lowest deal and get the 2nd lowest deal to beat that. Thanks for the tip!

 

It really works and internet sales managers know they have 1 shot at getting your business because you are not physically in the store so that they can tag team and wear you down. Some people say take the lowest price and see if the second lowest will beat it, then take that back to the original lowest and so on, but it gets time consuming and they tend to start getting pissey. If you use this method, though, I believe you will get a good price. And tell them you have a high credit score and will most likely finance through the dealer. That way they may give you a little better quote thinking they will recoup some of that when they get you in the dealerships F & I department, but when you get to the dealership to sign the dotted line slap the money on the barrel head and pull the trigger. Cash is KING!

 

And congrats on living debt free.

 

The price may be the price until you show them a bag of money. Pick a dealership and watch how fast their trucks sell. If the same truck is around for more than a month, I'd say they're ready to deal. HTH
Mark

 

Well the dealer I used in west virginia did invoice pricing. Pretty reasonable
to deal with. The only issue is they charge 500 bucks to import the truck from another dealership, unless you pick it up yourself.

There are good dealerships in the region. I didn't find any fleet managers in
ohio that were willing to deal though...

 

Thanks, been debt free ever since I sold my house in late 2006. lol I got out when the real estate market was hot. Ever since then I only buy what I have the cash for, otherwise I can't afford it and if I can't afford it I will save for it if I really want it that bad. It also pays to be single, if I would have chose to have a wife and kids like my friends I'd probably be poor as a church mouse now like they are. haha

 

Nice! Hey can you fwd me the WV dealer's contact info? WV is not too far, only about 200 and some odd miles.

Did you get a sweet deal or what?

 

True

 

Use truecar.com and you should be able to get it around the dealers cost. Deal with the internet sales guys they will get you the best price. They would not give me a quote over the phone or via email. They only did it when seen them in person. If they don't have the vehicle you are looking for ask them if they can get one from another dealership. They can look up the regional inventory and get you quotes for those vehicles. They just need to make a deal with the other dealership to get that vehicle. Deal with the bigger dealerships that do a higher volume of sales. They are willing to make less profit for a higher volume of sales. My wife and I bought a Toyota Venza using truecar.com. We payed $100 less than the dealer cost on truecar.com.
The internet sales guy using truecar.com beat another dealership that was not using truecar by $1400 for the same car. We were very pleased using truecar.com. The dealerships that work truecar should give you the cheapest no haggle price.

 

I went to 5 got ignored at 3 and the 2nd dealer didn't want to go lower on the price so I walked.. went back to the very 1st dealer and got it for 35,000. Thought I was getting a deal.. I told them about true car and that was how I got them to settle for 35,000 was told that truecar doesn't include there shipping and additional costs? I guess I failed. Was my 1st time dealing with a dealer, this truck was my very 1st new car. Maybe I'll get them next time. Hahah

 

Your deal should have been no more than $32,500 OTD. That dealer probably made a good $3k to 4k off of you b/c more than likely they are getting those trucks for less than the dealer cost listed on truecar.com, especially if it's a high volume dealer. Also, if you financed the truck they made money on that deal as well. Live and learn.

Yeah that's ok, it happend to me too when I bought my first new car. I told myself they'll never get me again and they won't. Time and cash is your friend that will get you the best deal. If you look on the truecar.com quote I posted on the first post you will see the destination fee was already added. Also, be willing to travel to the next state, if it figures out to be a savings.

New automobile buying requires a tailored formula that will yield a number closest to zero, zero meaning your absolute bottom dollar savings down to the penny. Dealers are notorious for manipulating numbers to seem like you are getting a great deal when in reality you are getting raped. This is especially true if you trade in your car, NEVER TRADE IN YOUR CAR. You will always get top dollar for your old car by selling it yourself. Example: I just sold my 98 Lexus SC 400 Platinum/Black lthr w/ 90k miles for $10,500 and it only cost me $4 in fees to sell it w/o anyone ever test driving it. Had I traded it in I would have gotten probably less than $7k.

Dealers are slicker than possum shit and will do anything to make a bundle off of you.

 

Try this:

http://bankofamerica.zag.com/main.html?cm_mmc=eLend-Auto-_-BAC-Homepage-_-AutoLoans-_-TextLink

This is one of the sites I used when I bought my 2011. Also look at edmunds.com

It comes in below your quote.

 

Dan Cava toyota in clarksburg
Tom Sears seemed to be the most competent man in
the place, so I would just deal with him.
I got my 2011 at invoice in dec 2010. Wasn't the best
time to buy since they were clearing out the 2010s, but
still they beat every other dealer in the region.