TORSPD: NEVR

Sweet now I can look at it here than on xru

Still looks sexy

 

I need to back track a little bit. I forgot to add a few things in here.

One, I want to point out some things about the STS kit, or better known as STD .

They did a good job making things look all shiney and pretty. THat is for sure. And if you are new to the boost/performance game, it will easily make you overlook certain things.

First being this. Although kind of hard to see from this angle, this 90* bend right before the exhaust tube enters the turbine inlet, is a "Kink" or "crush" bend". Basically a performance robbing bend.



Here is a better pic from another vehicle. You can clearly see the reduction is diameter.



In my case, since I was one of the first to buy the kit for our trucks, for $6000 that should have been mandrel bent. Not kink.

Another point to mention, is the polished coating on the tubing. STS calls it ceramic coating. It might very well be. However it has got to be the cheapest ceramic coating on the market, as it didn't last one full year, in some spots. As well, they used it more importantly, to protect the metal tubing from rusting.

"Well duh," some of you might say. But, again, I paid an arm and a leg for this kit which wasa advertised as," the highest horspower per pound of boost on the market." And I could even get into boost with the tune they gave me. Plus Mr. Rick Squires himself was at best, not helpful. The grade of steel they use in their kits, is 409 mild steel. It will rust in a very short period of time if not coated. It will rust VERY BADLY. For $6K, the tubing should have been 304 stainless, hands down.

 

This, I also forgot to add. I had always had some sort of an idle issue with the tune on the MAP-Ecu2, after Power House tuned it. It really bothered me, and I still wasn't comfortable with tuning it on my own. I ended up taking a vacation to SD to see my family. While there, I got to tour the URD shop in SoCal, and Gadget for the first time. It was a blast, and I learned first hand how good of a man he is.

He ended up tuning my truck for me. Needless to say, he was pleased with how it ran after properly tuned. So was I. We also learned that PowerHouse had ripped me off, and used the same un-tuned base map that Gadget had emailed them, to get my truck running. Fail!!!

Here is videos after I met with some friends, in AZ, on the way home.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXmF...xt=C366b283UDOEgsToPDskIfGW2TiqFnB7j02zpW4pmz

 

Going back to this picture,



I forgot tp mention that I had these made to be a compression ratio of 9.5:1. The purpose to have it lower, is simply to help prevent knock due to higher compression with boost.

I cannot for the life of me remember what the stock compression ratio is. Either 10:1, or 10.5:1?

 

cut it close there at the end lol.

 

Found some more pictures of the carnage, from the hydro-locking.

One of these things is not like the other.....lol



In that picture^^^, if you look closely, you can see how thin the "sleeve liners" are. Milimeters at best.



Close up of piece of the rod poking through.



The piston from that cylinder, #6.



And the broken ringland.

 

Upon the reinstall..





All rods and pistons installed, waiting on gaskets and heads.



Here is the spec sheet of the rods from Pauter. Pretty light. Very strong.



All of the lowerend was put together on 7-2-2009. I was getting extremely excited about having my truck back up and running!

 

Yeah, I know. lol. Video makes me laugh a little now.

 

During this same time-line, on the way back from Cali, I had a idea of how to be able to easily make an intake manifold spacer.

So I discussed it with my friend Grumpy, and he advised me to talk with Coupe. Otherwise known as James, of Shoppe Graphics and Design.

I had a spare upper plenum to be able to give to him, so he could take his measurements, and develop a prototype.

After a few weeks, he had a solid piece in hand. Black anodized, and 3/4" thick. Having read about the two spacers available from Skunk2.com, and their two models being either 3/8" or 1/2", I asked if he could cut it down to 1/2". Which he did, no problem. This first piece was $400 alone, as well as being at a bit of a discount at that. Much appeciated Coupe!

Being that my truck was still down, I was curious to see how the butt dyno approved, and Grumpy was willing to assist.



You can see how the anodizing is not on the top surface any longer, due to it being re-machined.



CNC machined, and perfect fit for the OEM gasket.

 

Installed the APR cam gears. An extremely easy install when the motor is out and apart. Lol. Kind of like cheating...



What they do is clock the exhaust cam about 3*, if I remember correctly. In such a fashion that they allow a slight overlap between intake and exhaust openings. Excellent for N/A and S/C motors. As it helps create more scavenging, and cooler combustion temps. At a much much cheaper cost than replacing all four cams, for the coooool price of $1800.

Setup the timing...and no, that is not my hand. That hand however, is the root cause of how I have been lucky enough to receive another nickname.....













Figure that might help someone in the future.

 

Its 10:1.

 

that really is a good looking motor when its torn down to that point. The hideous IM sure sets it back though. Wake up aftermarket, make something happen.

 

Unfortunately, Cometic at this point still hadn't come out with an their upgraded head gasket, so I was left with the factory one. Those and the factory set of Torque-to-yield head bolts. They do their job, but stretch too much. Not good when adding boost to a motor.

The directions for install of those bolts, is to torque to 22ft/lbs, in the factory specified order. Then mark with paint marker, and turn 180*. How much torque is 180*???

So we got the motor all back together, and installed the snorkel kit. Here is the filter location. This is inside the passenger wheel well.



Nice thick 90* silicone coupling from www.extremepsi.com as well as replaced the crappy worm-gear style hose clamps with Clampco brand T-bolt clamps. Woot.



This particular hose would countinually pop off after "X" amount of time, when it was the STS coupling. It just wasn't long enough, so I found a replacement, and cut it to the necessary length. You will also notice that there are two T-bolt hose clamps on one end, to prevent the tube from popping off any more.



Kind of ugly, yes. Best way I could figure to rig up the snorkel tubing with out it being in direct contact with that brace.

 

Thank you. I figured, just wasn't sure.

 

It is. If Toyota had only put actual ductile iron sleeves in the motor instead of these, there would be even more potential. Otherwise, you have to go a route similar to mine now. Whether that be an M.I.D. (modular integrated deck sleeve) or a drop in sleeve.

 

Got the motor back in, and started it up. It sounded like music to my ears!

Then we noticed a problem.....Oil was leaking out of the driver side head, at the rear of the block, as well as we noticed in that you could not see through the coolant in the Killer Glass radiator tube. Big problem.....

Tear down began again...





Due to my work schedule, it took about a week to fix the issue. When we first found it, and decided what had to be done, I called up TTC Performance to get the proper sized ARP studs. I figured that I could at least get half of them in. And another headgasket was needed....

 

Speaking a bunch of rocket science to me here, tell me in plain ol english doc.

 

Got everything cleaned up, and found the problem. There was a notch on the rear oiling port on the deck of the driver side bank.

Noticeable in this pic again. You can see it if you look closely.



I don't know how I over looked that, but I can only say because I was rushing....

Being the case, had I noticed it before I would have sent it to a machine shop to be fixed. At this point though, I was running low on funds. Didn't really have the time to remove, and ship out to be fixed(including costs of that), nor did I want to buy a new spare block for the cost of $2200. Unless I absolutely had to.

So I made a judgement call. Grabbed some industrial strength JB Weld, and filled in the small notch. "Machined" it as best we could, and checked it with a straight edge. Then proceeded to finish the re-build.





Those were just before re-start.

Also, you can see the injector wires and clips really well in this picture. I installed the solder in clips, versus the plug n play clip. They are commonly known as Bosch style. Actual name are Female EV1 connectors.

http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/p..._id=3&osCsid=93f415f8c71cb26fa73ac150276753a7

Edit**:

I also need to add, that when we started to install the heads studs which I had received from TTC, the second time, we found that they were the right pitch, but not the right diameter. So again they were wrong. That meant buying yet another set of OEM torque to yield bolt....

 

These are the poper head studs:


Best price and best place to get them.

http://www.dezod.com/pd_arp_head_stud_kit-1gr.cfm

 

Me like turbo.