having trouble finding a good system !!!! give suggestions !!!!

Im looking for a good quality system that i am planning to hook up to a stock head unit for now but later upgrade the speakers and head unit. I have heard nothing but great things about Mr. Marv and he recommends the 13TW5 and his custom box. I am planning on going with this set up however id like to know other practical options that yall are running ? I only want something that will go behind the rear seat of my DC. I want something that can get loud and match up to a monoblock 600 watt amp i already have, any suggestions would be very helpful.

 

This is one of two threads that I've seen this morning in the AV forum that fit into the category of "What do you guys think" or "What would be best".... questions that don't seemingly get much response since there isn't much of a question being asked... I'm sure that I've done this as well.

However since this one gets into SOME detail, I'll lend you some help...



You're looking for a "good quality system" but you're holding off upgrading your HU/speakers until later.... Let's be honest, really you're looking for some bass (which is fine, but say what you really mean). You've also already picked out a sub (& a box and someone to build the box for you)... Wonderful, you're already one step ahead of most who are creating this type of thread, but you're also asking what "other practical options" people are running even though you only want something that goes behind the rear seat.... Well, if you're only looking for something behind the seat, your options dwindle down to size and quantity.

• One or two 12's (if you're really creative, possibly three)
• One to three 10's
• Some number of 8's

You're constricting factor is the amount of airspace you've got available, in addition to the physical size of the driver.

As far as your amp is concerned, I highly doubt anyone can give any sort of definative answer without knowing exactly what amp you have.... A "monoblock 600 watt" amp is pretty bland.... Is that 600w rms, 600w peak? At 2, 4, or 8 ohms? I'll assume that you really mean a single channel amp but I have seen people refer to a 2ch amp as a monoblock because they're using it an a mono fashion. Also, there's a HUGE difference between an amp by a reputable company (JL Audio or Alpine, for example) and a company that isn't so reputable (I'll refrain from naming names on that group). I'd like to say that most "reputable" amps will feel like they're worth something (weight, look, etc...) but that's not always true.

Finally, "something that gets loud" really is a matter of properly matching up your sub or subs to a properly built box (airspace, materials, etc...) and an appropriate amp. Your 13TW5 is definately capable of handling a 600w amp (rated from 250-600w on JL's website) - the better question is whether or not your amp is capable of running the TW5, and that's a question that can only be answered when we find out what specific amp you are using.

I hope at the very least this prompts you to ask some better questions, because right now (I feel like) you're asking speculative questions and are only going to get speculative answers.

 

I read your post fairly quick, but if you plan on keeping the stock head unit, you'll need an Audiocontrol LC6i processor since the stock radio has bass reduction at higher volume levels, as well as during bass peaks. It probably adjusts high frequencies as well.

This box will accept your speaker level inputs (up to 6) from the radio, separtely sum the frequencies for lefts and rights (across both front and rear) together so you get full range left and right channel for preamp. The artificial bass removal will be removed and the signal overall is cleaned, and you'll have 3 independant preamp outputs. Another key benefit which I haven't seen mentioned anywhere is that it actually drives up the line-outputs upwards of 9V rms, which lets you minimize how high you turn the gain up on the amp.

 

At roughly $135 for a LC6i, the OP would be better off buying a new HU. This way, he'd avoid a majority of the signal processing... Plus he'd have something that (likely) doesn't have any frequency reductions.

 

There are considerations and it depends on what he wants to do. If he has and still likes satelite radio (although the signal is heavily compressed), doesn't want to give up the 6 disc changer, and is fine with using the stock aux input for an ipod/iphone, he may want to stay with the stock headunit...some newer media center units delete the cd-player altogether and then require you to pay another $90 for a satelite radio module + more for steering wheel control. The Pandora app, either on a aftermarket HU or iphone/droid phone can suitably replace satelite radio if you have good reception, but to me only makes sense if you still have unlimited data on your phone. If he wants DVD video and GPS navi in dash, then by all means go with an aftermarket HU.

 

I dunno how much everyone else uses Pandora, but I stream it almost 40 hrs a week and have hit their free limit many times, in addition to various podcasts and other music streaming services, and I've never came close to going over my streaming limits...

Even when I had unlimited data on my iphone, I don't know that I ever went beyond the 4gb limit that I have now...

I agree that there are considerations that depend on what he's going to do, but if he's planning on replacing the HU reasonably soon, then personally I think that the money spent on the LC6i would be a waste of his money (again, IMO) that could be better spent on any piece of gear.

His OP said "HU and speakers later", so I'm making an assumption that he's like most of us and has a budget he needs to stay within right now (could also be validated by his question of using an amp he already has), and if he's spending a few hundred on a sub, and likely another hundred or so on a custom box that's gonna need to be shipped to him, it's likely that he just may not have $135 for a signal processing box right now.

 

The term "need" and an $100 + LOC (even the LC6) is a bit of a stretch. Will it be a better option than others - Possibly. But, as noted, if he is planning on upgrading a head unit, it is a waste. And calling it a processor is a bit of a stretch as well - Even AC refers to it as a Line Out Converter with summing.

OP - If you have not decided on the JL, consider something like an Alpine Type R thin as well.

Also, as requested, the amplifier info could change a lot of recommendations, so that will be helpful to have.

 

Well im sorry i havent responded to this post, i never got notified that anyone replied or even looked at it.

The amp i am looking at running is the JL audio XD 600/1 its rated at 2 and 4 ohms. 2 ohms is 600 RMS and 4 ohms is 400 RMS. With that being said I have been told JL is very reputable and an established company whose ratings are true and valid. I would like a sub that can get loud.

 

I do like and would enjoy the DVD but when you talk about a $500 headunit plus the steering control and the wiring and dash kit along with the ipod connections and everything else that goes along with the new headunit. The price would end up close to 1000 by the time i had install and everything done and right now i have some other stuff along with a sound system i would like to buy. The speaker and head unit upgrades will come later as more money comes in. I do have unlimited streaming for my iphone so pandora replaces my sat radio.

 

which of these alpines are you referring to??? I would like to use the full 600 RMS from my amp to power a sub. I have been told the older type R is not as good as the newer and smaller version that alpine designed. The new one is 600 bucks also which seems pricey compared to the JL13 or the IDQ10.

http://www.crutchfield.com/g_520/Component-Subwoofers.html?tp=111&nvpair=FFBrand%7cAlpine&nvpair=FFSize%7c%5brank7%5d10%22

 

I would replace the head unit first. The 2011 radio sucks badly. I couldn't hear mine with the windows down. I got a nice Pioneer from Crutchfield for $139 with free shipping, wiring harness, & the dash kit. Easy installation instructions, free tech support. This was my first radio install DIY. Also for $60 added a box to make the steering controls work with the new head unit.

So far all I changed was the head unit & it cranks plenty loud even with the factory speakers. Speaker replacement was planned for, but never had the funds.

 

I just installed my pioneer avh-p2300dvd I bought that the scosche dash kit and harness for 349.50 shipped and it sounds waaay better then my stock HU. If you have the funds id get a HU first because the stock HU doesn't have or give the speakers enough power(to me) I have a reg cab and picked up 2 12 in pioneer subs 1400w each in separate boxes and a 920watt amp class d mono also by pioneer. If you want a good qualify system id start with a good HU and you don't even need a double din there are many single din with good outputs which you can hook up subs ans a amp to. I stick with all pioneer. Its user friendly and very good quality. Alpine is also a great brand. I am by no means a electronic guru or professional I just gave my 2¢ and hope it helps. Hope you find what your looking for!

 

Much appreciated my friend. I am actually waiting on a group buy price for the Pioneer 4300 that was posted a few days ago. Were waiting to get 10 people to find out what the price would be. I always use Pioneer head units but i like JL subs and amps usually

 

It looks like you've pretty much had you question's answered but I'd like to throw in my opinion. If I had a 2nd gen DC I'd save up a little money and go with a supercrewsound.com box and 2 JL Audio w3v3-4 on your JL Audio amp. Be sure that if you get this and decide to go with JL to get the extra mounting depth for $15 you must have it for them to fit.
http://www.supercrewsound.com/05tacomadbldual.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W3V34/JL-Audio-10W3v3-4.html?tp=111&nvpair=FFBrand|JL+Audio

 

I did 2 IDQ 10's and 500 watts at 4 Ohms... realise that 13tw5 is 3 Ohms. I'D DO A NEW HEAD UNIT BEFORE SPEAKERS AND SUBS. In fact, I did.

Also you gotta think about stuff like Pandora. My system is so precise you can hear the fidelity of media. Pandora... and I have the upgraded paid version, is so compressed and low fi that I can't stand to turn it up past low volume levels. Getting too good of equipment has a lot of negatives because it limits your source choices. Additionally it spoils you and makes everything sound shitty in comparison. I often wish I had never heard high end audio because everying would not sound so horrible in comparison.

 

This is the truth. I really can't stand to listen to any other radio than one that was upgraded decently. Stock on anything is just shit compared to even a hu and speaker upgrade. Although the Nissan Altima's come with a pretty sick radio out the factory, lots of bass for 6x9's I believe but the high end is lacking still by far the best base stock system. The only one better is the Bose upgrade in the Ford Escape 2nd gen.

 

+1

 

Nice.... an answer from the OP that helps out

1. Dash kit, wiring, and steering wheel control should cost $100 AT MOST
2. A NEW headunit should come with the cables, but even still shouldn't be more than $100, let alone more than $50
3. Install shouldn't cost more than $50 - if you're not doing it yourself, make sure someone from a reputable shop is doing it.

The JL amps are very good amps, and you shouldn't have a problem running nearly anything with a 600w rms rating.

He's referring to the SWR-1043D
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR...vpair=FFBrand|Alpine&nvpair=FFSize|[rank7]10"

We've also got to understand that we're all talking about getting QUALITY SOUND from a 2,000 lb tin can rumbling down the freeway at 65mph.... personally I think worrying about the fidelity of the media in this scenerio is pretty much trumped by the whole rolling tin can (granted, we all got the best tin can available). I get this type of arguement for listening to stuff at home in a (semi-) dedicated home theater room, but for a car, as long as it's as loud as we like to have it, clean and distortion free, I won't be worrying about the choice of media that I'm listening to.

I get the craze about having good sound in our cars - we spend enough time in them that it really does matter. I've spent my fair share of thousands buying semi-exotic gear - I've even had the added bonus (that many will never get) of having my setup tuned and analyzed by some of the tech's that designed the gear to get the absolute best sound I could from them.

I was going somewhere with that but having my attention diverted for the last 30 mins has made me forget.... oh well

 

This seems to be the choice of many, so i guess ill look more into doing my upgrade in this order. I already have most of this equipment picked out its just a matter of money to do it. Appreciate all the help guys !!!!

 

I have 100 pounds of sound deadening in my truck, Focal K2 components, JL HD amp, and a DNX9960 head unit. I can only use Pandora for finding new songs to download due to the loss of fidelity in the highs. I really wish I couldn't hear the loss of highs on Pandora or 128kb MP3s but unfortunately, even at 70 mph, I can. Things that sound good at home sound like crap in my truck. It sucks. I also don't have a very rich midrange and midbass because, well, Focal K2s have amazing tweets and mediocre midbass. I often wish I had gone with JL C5s for mids and highs and 13TW5s for subs instead of IDQ 10s... 20Hz performance distortion free is nice, but I secretly wish I could bump louder.