New Clutch and rack bushing

I got an oil change done at the Toyota dealership a couple weeks ago. They also said my front rotors and pads were shot and quoted me $350 in parts + labor. When braking, my truck starts to shake, which is more noticeable at higher speeds.

I decided to take it to a different mechanic I've worked with in the past since I can't install my own brakes right now (broken hand). I also asked them to feel out my shifts from 1st to 2nd, as I had noticed it's gotten a little rough. Sometimes getting into 1st and reverse is difficult, but all other gears it's a breeze.

My mechanic said that the rack bushings were worn out which was the main cause of the vibrations. They said my front rotors did need to be replaced but that wasn't the main source of the vibration.

He also told me that I needed a new clutch and that was why it felt rough 1st to 2nd.

He quoted me $350 installed for rack bushing
$950 for full clutch
and $60 for fluids.

Can anyone help me out? What're some of your thoughts, or additional questions I should ask? I should add my Tacoma's a 2003, xtra cab, 3.4l 4x4 with 82,000 miles

Thanks!

 

FWIW, my front rotors are bad and causing pulsation under braking. My steering rack bushings were also bad and I replaced them. Replacing them made the steering much much better, definitely worth replacing with poly bushings. No more mid corner steering corrections, and the wheel doesn't move at all when hitting potholes. However, it did not affect the pulsation under braking at all. Front rotors are still on my to do list.

When you do your clutch, make sure to do the rear main seal, and to replace the 3 or so vacuum hoses connected to the trans/transfer case/front diff. Even though my truck is an 03, most of the vacuum hoses cracked the ends when I pulled them off.

 

Right on I definitely want to replace the bushings, just $350 seems expensive to me. I thought they were only $20 or for parts...

As for the clutch I'll definitely have them check the hoses. Bummer because I bought this truck with 76,000 and already need a new clutch. Also concerned about the price. Parts seem to be $200-250. Is labor really $700?

 

It's pretty simple to do yourself, but IIRC one of the bushings is very difficult to press out and get the new one in. I used a combination of c clamps and large channel locks. Might as well order them and try it yourself. They come with instructions. Then if you can't do it yourself, then try a shop.

 

Ya i felt it was pretty simple, I just don't have my jack and stands in CO, left back in CA. I guess for the price of labor I could buy a cheap set.

How long can I drive around with my clutch as is without causing any further harm to my tranny?

 

If the clutch isn't slipping I think you will be fine for a while. I find it funny that just because its hard getting it into 1st, 2nd, and reverse the mechanic wants to throw in a new clutch. Sounds like he just want to make some $$$. My clutch is original at 176k. Could just be your clutch hydraulics.

 

Ya the clutch isn't slipping. Just hard to get into 1st/reverse in the morning, and slight grinding/clunky sound from 1st to second(although the grinding/clunking isn't always there, sometimes so minute I don't notice, other times the shifts are rough. I asked them if it could just be one component that is failing or not working properly but he said when you replace something in the clutch you do it all at the same time.

After thinking about it, This truck spent a lot of time in the San Francisco Bay Area before I got it so it very well could need a new clutch from so much stop and go.

The shop i took it to are transmission specialists. Maybe I should get a second opinion

 

I should also add that the clutch catches right at the top. When I'm in 4x4, specifically reverse, It's very easy to stall because the clutch catches so high.

 

hmmm..usually top engagment does point to a clutch going bad. Go get a second opinion anyways.

 

Ya I've read engaging at the top is a sign, definately going to ask for a second opinion. Just unsure what the symptoms were that allowed them to diagnose I need an entire clutch and not something smaller. All they felt was the high engagement, rough from 1 to 2 and difficulty shifting when cold