Computer/Engine Reset sequence?

Hey, y'all.

I've done a word search for this and have come up with nothing. Sorry if it's covered. Can't find it.

The dead: My battery died. Put a new battery in. Went immediately to get inspected. Won't pass because the O2 and EVAP sensors haven't responded. The inspector said the computer needs to be reset. He said I do this by driving it with lots of starts and stops, heat up and cool down. About 300 miles of that should do it. That was 1200 miles ago. No dice.

Took it to a different shop to get their input. He said in order to reset the computer, a very specific driving sequence should be performed. He offered to do it for $130 (because it's a pain in the ass), but said I sould look the sequence up online and do it myself. (He said he could sell me the sequence for $40 due to the fact that the shop had to pay for the manual that it contains and giving away free stuff would be a bad idea). I'm confident he's being honest, since we've gone there a lot and he's done things for my wife and me that prevent us from spending money on needless fixes.

Where would I find this sequence? Any other ideas? Any fuses I should look for? Gremlins?

Thanks for the help. It's gotten where I want to leave the damn truck under an overpass in a bad part of town and call it in.

Marcus "Desparate" D.

 

Drive Pattern Procedure. Let the vehicle sit for 8 hours to "cold soak" so that the IAT and Coolant temp are within 13 degrees of each other. Undo fuel cap and reinstall. Drive on smooth roads to minimize fuel slosh. Avoid sudden starts and stops.
Connect the OBDII Scantool to DLC3 to check monitor status and preconditions.
a. Start the engine and allow it to idle for 2 minutes or more.
b. Drive the vehicle at 40 – 70 mph (64 – 112 km/h) or more for at least 3 minutes.
Be sure to maintain engine speed between 900 and 3,200 rpm. Do not allow throttle to close.
c. Stop the vehicle and allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds or more.
d. Drive the vehicle at 25 mph (40 km/h) for at least 40 seconds or more.
Be sure to maintain engine speed above 900 rpm.
e. Stop the vehicle and allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds or more.
f. Perform steps “d” and “e” ten times.

 

My god, in all my years driving, and one month after getting my truck this fall the old battery died, and I just dropped one in and drove. I have never had to do anything like that.

 

Ain't technology great? Merry Christmas.

 

Here it is from the factory service manual.

EDIT: 1GR-FE

 

Steves104x4 and GP3: Dudes. THANKS!

I'm reading the manual PDF. It says to Clear the DTCs. What do they mean by that?

Since I know the two sensors aren't ready (verified it this morning), would it work to just run through the steps?

 

I didn't see that you had a 2002. The above pdf is for the 1GR-FE

Here you go.

 

That's what I'm thinking. Unfortunately you won't know the sensors are completed until you go back to the inspector when he re-scans.

 

Again, Thanks.

This will help a ton. I hope.

Another thing I noticed is my running temperature is about half of what it was when I bought the truck new (New being centered on the temp guage. Currently running 1/4 guage)

I thought it necessary that I put in a new thermostat. The mech says it's not necessary.

What say you?

 

well usually the car will let you know pred. dam quick when it wants a new thermostat, in the old days they would leak. easy to see.
could be some build up on the temt senser. have u flushed it latley? never, use tap water when adding antifreeze, mineral deposits will appear, use distilled.
to reset any computer, i always took the neg cable off battery for 30 min.

 

Evap is the hardest one to run because it must start from a cold soak. When you start it in the morning let the car warm up then drive for about 20min just to be safe if you shut the car off and restart the test will not run again until after the vehicle is cold again