manual clutch question

I have a manual transmission and it takes me holding in the clutch for a few moments to be able to put it in gear. sometimes even if I do hold it in for a while it still grinds when I put it into gear. I have the clutch pushed to the floor when I do it. bad clutch?

 

Have you checked you fluid level?

 

Yea, actually just changed it about a month ago hoping that would solve it but, nothing.

 

Does the clutch slip at all?

Sounds like your hydraulics need to be replaced. I would start at the slave cylinder and do the master if the slave doesn't help.

I have a guide on how to rebuild your slave in my sig. Costs like $12.

And you said that you just replaced the fluid; make sure that you bled the system properly and that there is no air in the system.

 

This is step 1...

If that doesn't work, this is step 2...

And, this is a great step-by-step guide.

 

Before you spend a penny, check the clutch pedal bracket. Mine worked loose and I thought I had issues, but five minutes is cheaper than parts.

 

Thanks for all the ideas, I'll look into them for sure. No one thinks that it could be a bad clutch altogether though? I ask cause the Haynes repair manual says "run the engine at normal idle speed with the transmission in neutral. Disengage the clutch, wait several seconds and shift into reverse. No grinding noise should be heard. A grinding noise would most likely indicate a bad pressure plate or clutch disk." This sounds a lot like what I'm experiencing, except it's mostly when shifting into 1st and 2nd.
Thoughts?

 

If it only happens going into 1st and 2nd it may be syncros?

 

Once you get it into a gear how far from the floor is the clutch pedal when the truck starts to move?
If the truck starts moving within an inch or so of the pedal from the floor it sounds like your clutch is not completely disengaging. Not a problem with the disk and probably not the pressure plate.
Maybe a hydraulic problem as others have said.

On many vehicles it's possible to adjust the clutch linkage to control how far from the floor the clutch will disengage and "grab" on release I don't know if possible with Tacomas.

 

is the cable tight? i know my last manual trans when the cable gave a bit of play i had hard time getting into first unless it was to the mat and i was at a complete stop.

I do find even in my 12' that to get into first i have to be stopped or going very slow and with it to the mat, its kinda a PINA since i drive M/T so i can just drop it in the gear i need and go... and not going into first when i coast and the light turns green and still gotta stop -.-

Anyhow hope you get it figured out, if fluid is good and cable is tight then may be a bad clutch or may need someone to look at it.

 

My thought is that it isn't fully disengaging. Cause if I sit there with my foot to the floor for a few moments usually it'll go into gear without grinding. But those are long "moments". I checked the adjustments for the pedal and they're adjusted to their limit. I'm wondering if bleeding it again would help, maybe I didn't do it right the first time and there isn't enough hydrolic pressure. Let me know what you guys think and what do synchros do and can you adjust them yourself?

 

Your situations sounds identical to what mine was. I rebuilt my slave and it helped for like a week...but then it started acting up worse. I got a new master from auto zone for $25 and after I ripped out the old one I took the piston out and one of the seals was ripped badly. I put in the new one (easy btw...frustrating, but easy) but haven't had a chance to bleed the clutch yet....so we will see for sure.

 

Well you'll have to let us know how that turns out for you. If it works I think I'll give that a shot.

 

Ok, well I finally got the clutch bled yesterday and I drove it today. Working nights sucks bawls...

Its a PITA to bleed if you dont bench bleed it (I didn't). Took about 20 mintues of one person pumping/holding the pedal, and one opening the bleeder.

I drove it today and all issues are gone. The clutch is super firm now, engages nice and crisp and where its supposed to, and shifts super smooth.

I just need to adjust the free play in the pedal.

There was one little moment where it engaged kinda funny...but there is probably still air in the line because I was in a hurry bleeding it. I will do a final bleed this weekend when I dont have to go to work at 3:30 in the afternoon

 

Just yesterday my clutch started humming, well I dont know that it is the clutch, but when Im in neutral at a stop, I can hear a hum from the tranny, it goes away when I depress the clutch pedal, any ideas? Sorry for the thread jack but didnt want to start a whole new one just for this issue. Thanks guys.

 

Here is a rebuild kit for under 10 bucks it says it fits but who knows

Dorman CSK351359 Clutch Slave Cylinder Kit

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-CSK351...002&vehicleType=automotive&newCar=1&carId=001

 

Bingo. It's TRANNY TIME, I bet.

 

Does the humming go away when pressing on the clutch pedal just a bit, like 1 inch?
or
Does it go away when pressing the clutch pedal to the floor?

 

I didnt try pressing it just an inch, but it goes away when its to the floor for sure, Ill try to do it just an inch and see if there is a difference