1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Question about building sliders

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by brs127s, Feb 29, 2012.

  1. Feb 29, 2012 at 12:16 PM
    #1
    brs127s

    brs127s [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2010
    Member:
    #43575
    Messages:
    494
    Gender:
    Male
    O'Fallon, MO
    Vehicle:
    04 D-Cab 4x4 Limited TRD
    TRD Headers, Aero Turbine AT2525XL Deckplate Mod, TRD tranny cooler, King Coilovers, LR UCAs, Alcan 5 Leaf springs and Bilstein 5100s, Shrockworks front bumper, CBI rear bumper.
    I have used the search and looked at many threads, but none answered my specific question. I have purchased all the steel I need to build my sliders. I am using 2x2x3/16 square tubing for the main rail and 1 1/2x.134 DOM round for the outer rail. They didn't have any more short pieces of 2x2x3/16, for the legs to weld to the frame, so I found some 2x2x1/4 for the legs. My question is about the square tubing. It has a welded seam on one side. What is the best position for the side with the seam on the main beam? Should I turn it down or turn it back towards the frame? Does it truely make any difference?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Feb 29, 2012 at 12:27 PM
    #2
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2009
    Member:
    #26726
    Messages:
    19,924
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steven
    In a corn field, OH
    Vehicle:
    1990 Chevy Siveraydo
    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
    shouldn't matter man, especially since you're using such thick steel. I would point it towards the frame rail o the truck and call it good.
     
  3. Feb 29, 2012 at 1:15 PM
    #3
    valon5150

    valon5150 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2012
    Member:
    #73492
    Messages:
    416
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steven
    redding
    Vehicle:
    01 taco turd
    all pro lift, 33s, home made sliders, bumpers, skids
    Ditto. I'd point it up but it doesn't matter
     
  4. Mar 1, 2012 at 1:10 PM
    #4
    brs127s

    brs127s [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2010
    Member:
    #43575
    Messages:
    494
    Gender:
    Male
    O'Fallon, MO
    Vehicle:
    04 D-Cab 4x4 Limited TRD
    TRD Headers, Aero Turbine AT2525XL Deckplate Mod, TRD tranny cooler, King Coilovers, LR UCAs, Alcan 5 Leaf springs and Bilstein 5100s, Shrockworks front bumper, CBI rear bumper.
    I'll turn the seam towards the frame. Thanks again!
     
  5. Mar 1, 2012 at 1:16 PM
    #5
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Member:
    #40461
    Messages:
    19,562
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jerry
    Benicia, CA
    Vehicle:
    02 Extra cab SAS Linked front and rear
    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    DAMN!! those are going to be pure BEEF!!! about 150lbs :eek: I angle my sliders up at 20* and put the seam on the top not towards the frame but with 3/16th square I don't think you could split that with your little truck if you wanted to.
     
  6. Mar 2, 2012 at 7:27 AM
    #6
    brs127s

    brs127s [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2010
    Member:
    #43575
    Messages:
    494
    Gender:
    Male
    O'Fallon, MO
    Vehicle:
    04 D-Cab 4x4 Limited TRD
    TRD Headers, Aero Turbine AT2525XL Deckplate Mod, TRD tranny cooler, King Coilovers, LR UCAs, Alcan 5 Leaf springs and Bilstein 5100s, Shrockworks front bumper, CBI rear bumper.
    If I remember correctly, I had 142 lbs on the scale. :D It's better to over-engineer than to wish I had made them heavier after they are built. The weight will be less then that once I cut everything down to the correct lengths.

    When you say you angle them up 20 degrees, are you angling just the outer tube, or the inner/outer assembly? How much clearance above the slider is there when you open your door(s)? My thoughts were to mount square the legs and inner tube, then angle the outer tube up slightly. What about notching the round tubing? Do you use a tubing notcher? I may have to build a jig to used in conjunction with my drill press, rather than buying a notcher.

    What's the the opinion on a kickout at the rearend of the slider? Does anyone have kickouts on a double cab?
     
  7. Mar 2, 2012 at 9:46 AM
    #7
    Box Rocket

    Box Rocket Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2010
    Member:
    #32389
    Messages:
    7,188
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Adam
    Syracuse, Utah
    Vehicle:
    1995 FZJ80 Land Cruiser
    3xLocked, lifted, well used
    I don't have kickouts on my sliders but I'm a big fan of the kickouts. They are very useful for pivoting the truck around rocks to keep the rear of the truck off the rocks. I had them on my last truck and they work great.
     
  8. Mar 20, 2012 at 8:45 AM
    #8
    pikuptruk

    pikuptruk Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2011
    Member:
    #64231
    Messages:
    80
    Gender:
    Male
    Vallejo
    Vehicle:
    01 4x4 2.7 Lifted
    6" Fabtech Lift 33" Tires Flowmaster Cold Air Intake
    Technically speaking, welded steel, if welded correctly does not pose any strength issues on the weld itself. As long as the weld retained penetration, it WILL NOT jeopardize the integrity of the product. My knowledge of steel comes from mild steel training. This is what we use aboard large ships. I have studied cases of steel failures, and we have found that steel will fail on the weld just as often as it would on a non welded portion of steel. I'd put the seam on the bottom for looks...I'm assuming the seam is welded? Hope this helps!
     
  9. Mar 20, 2012 at 8:50 AM
    #9
    FLtaco

    FLtaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2010
    Member:
    #40249
    Messages:
    647
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    Cocoa beach, fl
    Vehicle:
    05 prerunner dc
    Painted stock wheels, bfg km2s, 5100s front and rear, tc spindles, add a leaf, 3" block, debaged, flowmaster exhaust, 2nd air filter removed, wheel spacers and k&n air filter
    Correct I've been to welding school and have welded for a couple years now. If welded correctly the weld should be stronger than the metal itself. Your only decision should be cosmetically what looks best to you.
     
  10. Mar 20, 2012 at 8:55 AM
    #10
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2010
    Member:
    #42280
    Messages:
    12,846
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Mesa, AZ
    Vehicle:
    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    the seam should point up though, you dont want the seam on the bottom where rocks and shit are bashing on it.

    i say yes on the kick out, and holey beefed sliders! do you plan on beating the shit out of them? i would angle the outside of the slider up as well, mine isnt and i wish it was.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top