TORSPD: NEVR

A few weeks later, after i had the time to finish pulling it apart due to long work hours, here was the result on the pistons.

The "good" from the passenger side:



and the Bad from the driver side:





Piston slap is what was happening. Actually, one day not to long ago I found what caused the piston slap as well.

I was looking at those pistons with a friend, and I was pointing out different things. Then I looked on the inside, where the wrist pin sets. There was a clear indication of scoring in there. On the part of the circumference that is at the twelve 0'clock position. That was in some way most likely due to insufficient oiling.

Besides the reason of just wanting to tear this engine apart to inspect it, I also needed to pull the rods out. With the hopes that they would be fine, so that I could re-use them. They ended up being just fine, so I shipped them out to LCE, to be used in the new built engine. That was around the week of 2-20-10.

What we discussed doing to the engine being built was to have the heads ported and polished. Dual valve springs per valve ( vs 1 on OEM ) , Titanium valve spring retainers ( springs and retainers are for better seat pressure as well as to prevent "valve float" due to boost air and high rpm), as well as new pistons from CP Pistons (Better piston that JE). I had the pistons' compression ratio lowered to 9.2:1 and coated all around. The coating aids in keeping the combustion temp lower to aid in knock prevention.

 

Not sure if something like this has been posted before on TW, but here are pictures of the cylinder liners. Otherwise known as "sleeves"- which they really are not.





Looking at the space between the cylinders and the outer wall of the block, is called the water jacket. Since there is no metal holding the top of the cylinders to the outer wall of the block, this is called an Open Deck block. Excellent for cooling, but allows wobble of the tops of teh cylinders.

At the time, no one made things such as a Block Guard, which would fit between the top of the cylinders and the wall. No one made sleeve inserts. No one made replacement sleeves.

At the time of the first engine build, I was one the the very first to have a built 1GR engine. At least in America. By the time I had LC Engineering build my new engine, they had been building quite a few for customers in the UAE. Still though, nothing for sleeve strengthening.

Two months later, in April of '10, my fresh new engine finally arrived!!!!!

I had LCE assemble the lower end because I wanted no part of that. I told them to leave the rest alone because I wanted to put the final pieces together. Here are some pics.



^^^ Assembly lube on the cam lobes, and you can also see ARP head studs. Those were the proper ones, ordered through LCE.

Pretty much all back together, and everything properly torqued to spec.





Freshly painted valve covers, and a new JDM oil cap. Woot!

 

Engine porn.

 

This build thread, is just awesome!

Quite informative about the 1GR-FE even if you're on NA

 

This was an interesting find, as I had only to that point ever seen my oil pan. The one that came with the new engine was different than mine which was for a 4x4.

In this picture, minus the shape difference, they look about the same height.



Here, things really start to differ.



And then with the lower oil pans on, for full comparison.



The one on the left is used for some PreRunner models, and X-Runners. Not sure why some PreRunners get one pan, while others get another?

This raised an immediat concern with me, as well as my friend Grumpy.

Reason being, that he had about a year or so prior, spun a rod or main bearing. Due to low oil. How did he have low oil though, when he filled up to the factory recommended specification?

Not only that, but I had heard all sorts of stories of other people doing the same thing. One guy was driving his truck on a "Clover" style entry/exit ramp on the freeway. Another doing a donut.

What kind of BS is that right? Upon closer inspection, we noticed a few things about the shallow designed oil pan.

1: The sump is actually in the shallowest part of the shallow pan.

2: There is a small ridge that separates the two levels of the shallow oil pan.

3: The sump is not only in the shallow part, but not in the center either.

4: When you drain your oil there is still about a half quart of oil oil still left in the deep section of the shallow pan.

5: If you fill to the factory recommended spec of 4.8 quarts with a Toyota size filter, you will be at a high risk of pump cavitation when doing any fast turns that push the oil away from the sump.

What we learned is that the safest thing to do is always fill to the top dot on the oil stick. 5 quarts even, when using the Toyota sized filters. Regardless of what size filter you do use, always fill to the top dot, if you have the shallow oil pan.

What I did after that was get into contact again, with my friend Coupe. Showed him everything, and told him what I would like him to do. From that point forward he made two products. My lower oil pan spacer, and his larger, baffled, chambered oil pan.

Here is a pic of the oil pan spacer.

This piece is prior to going on my ex-girl's XR. Added a little over 1 1/2 quarts.

 

That is the purpose my man. I have been through so much, and had one hell of a steep/expensive learning curve. I want to share for all to be able to see my WINs, and FAILs. Help inform others, that they can learn and be better off from it. Especially monitarily. lol

 

Gets me all excited as well.

 

So is the Oil pan spacer only needed for those with the Oil pan on the right? (in the side by side shot comparison).

 

For the xrunner or a truck that has opposing sustaining lateral G's for any period of time.

 

You said it opposite.

It is only a safety addition if wanted, for the shallow (shorter) black pan, on the left. In this pic below.



Anybody that has the deep 4x4 pan is just fine.

I also know of people swapping the whole oil pan (upper aluminum; lower black), that had the shallow to the 4x4 deep one.

 

Some more shots of the two, side by side.





Shallow



4x4





That next night, I had it all buttoned up. It was about time to drop it in.

With the 4x4 pan installed of course.




Because the truck sat so high, I had to release the air in the tires to get it to drop down low enough that the engine hoist could have the engine high enough to go over the grill.





Worked late that night to get it in. Ran into one small problem. There was an extra dowel pin in the block. Ended up noticing that after we couldn't line up the trans with the block. What a pita to pull that out. Lol.

Here was every thing back together right before start up .



And the First start up of Torspd 3.0, after near 5 months of waiting. WOOT! Brings back memories.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sINNPNnBG-I&feature=player_embedded

 

Oh okay, well in the 1st pic its on the right

Good info tho, will have to check my friends Pre-runner to see what his is like

 

Oh ok. My bad. I wasn't quite sure which one, so I figured I would just reference a specif pic to make it easier.

Glad to help.

 

As long as it takes 5.5 qts and not 4.5 qts you have the well designed one.

 

Good to know

I noticed over on XRU that you're goal is 700 whp, are you going to be upgrading the rear axle to reach those numbers?! As I don't think the Toyota Diff is going to take that

 

We shall see.

I have a back-up plan for that as well. There will be additional things that need to be upgraded as well, prior to me feeling safe about trying to get that of power out of the freshend-up engine.

 

Hands down, coolest build I've ever seen on this site. Really nice job dude. I'm impressed.

 

Wow. Those are big words. I appreciate that very much.

 

I would also rank this within the top 5 builds on TW.

It is definitely the best detailed performance build.

Can't really compare this to n0rth's build - you both have gone in different directions.

The best part is the documentation and attention to detail with the underlying theme being that of education and not boasting.

Bravo once again Tor!

 

I forgot to add this picture of the Braille Battery, a few pages back. I took this a couple weeks ago when I was replacing the intake cam gears on my engine. That is why the negative terminal wire is off, as well as all sorts of lines/hoses near by.



That is the 15 pound version. The reason that I chose that one, is due to weight savings. I don't have a stereo system, so I don't need one with a large reserve.

It has IIRC 936 CCA.

Almost immediately after getting the new engine from LC Engineering in and running properly, I had a problem getting into boost. It would take forever, as well as only hit about half of what the spring was set to.

I checked for leaks every where. I thoroughly cleaned the filter, as it had become so dirty on time, that I couldn't boost. Wasn't that. I ended up pulling the turbo off to check the shaft for play, and sure enough.

The turbo's shaft could move in and out. Basically what I gathered as the reason, was that to much compressor surge had damaged the turbo. Due largely to the old style TiAL BOV, coupled with 5 feet + of intake tubing. That BOV just couldn't vent enough air, fast enough to prevent the surging.

It was time to upgrade the turbo.....This is what I ordered.

Precision 6265. 4" Inlet, 2.5" outlet on the compressor. T4 inlet .68 A/R, 3" outlet on th turbine.







Old Precision that cam with the STS kit, compared to the new one.







Installed, and ready for boost! Woot!