What fuel treatment do you use?

Generally it is absorbed by the ethanol that is added to our fuel.
All Heet and similar products are is alcohol that picks up water and holds it in suspension where it passes through the fuel system moderately harmlessly (we'll see what happens when they migrate to high pressure direct injection systems).

 

For less than $2.00 and the chance of getting any water out before it freezes sounds like a no brainer to me.

With all of the small engine repair I have done it seems like I always find water in the carbs and tanks.

 

Techron is the only thing I trust. It is superior in many ways. Look it up. And there is not enough of it in the fuel to clean a dirty engine. It is merely preventative. There used to be (not sure if there still is) more of it in the premium grade (high octane).

 

Where can you buy BG44?

 

About 2 months ago, I used Gumout in both my wifes car and my truck and both of our MPG's have been noticeably lower. It could just be a fluke, but I went from getting 17-18 MPG down to 14-15, she went from 26-28 to 23-24. I am scratching my head at what could have caused this overnight. The before results were also winter gas. I keep both vehicles maintained to the manufactures schedule. Neither one of us changed our driving habits. Anyone else think it could be the Gumout or something else unrelated?

 

I see huge differeces with my 05 using 91 E0 and the Lucas fuel cleaner.
I got about 260-280 using 87 before
320-330 using 91 E0 or 4MPG which adds up for me because i drive a lot
Just got 360 after using the fuel system cleaner. another 2MPG increase.

It makes a huge difference for me. The 4L can distinguish between fuel grades and becomes more efficient/uses less when higher grade is used. The motor needs a lot more fuel to run 87 where it needs less with 91 because its purer. Its a actual fact, Im sure others can confirm this.

 

I use RXP from time to time.

 

We have E-10 ethanol here year round now since 2008. It hasn't been easy on my MPG. It used to only be used in winter. I don't like it.

 

None. No issues.

 

So basically you are wasting $67 a year! Plus hours driving.


So by using the data YOU supplied and based on fuel in my area and drive time to the local checker for me and on driving 15,000 miles a year. Seems like a waste of money. And a waste of 15 hours a year.

So with your info and my local prices it is .272 cents per mile for the 87 oct. .232 per mile for the 91 oct and .232 for the 91 oct and lucas treatment. So based on the fact for me that is that I would be driving 319 miles a year just going to the auto store for the lucas treatment.

TO PUT IT SIMPLY YOU ARE WASTING VALUABLE BEER MONEY!

I make my own beer and that is about two 5 gal. batches. Thats a hundred bottles of beer!

 

Umm... No it's not and "actual fact" and if you have a scientific source for this "actual fact" it would be nice if you would supply it.

Where the fuck does this bullshit come from?

Octane has NOTHING to do with the "power" content of the fuel.
Pure ethanol has an octane rating of about 118, but it also has about 25% lower BTU content. It is also stoich at around 9:1 vs the 14:1 for gasoline. To run pure ethanol you would have to use about 30% more fuel to avoid a lean condition. The tradeoff is that you could run a very high compression.

Octane has nothing to do with the "purity" of the fuel. If anything, higher octane fuels are LESS pure because of the additives needed (primarily ethanol) to raise the octane rating. Many stations do in-tank mixing... They have ONE truck deliver fuel. It pumps the same fuel into every tank. It then pumps more ethanol into the mid-grade and premium tanks.
You generally do not see this with the "top tier" gasolines, but it is very common with the cheaper independents.

Octane has nothing to do with the speed of the flame front, or the temperature of the burn.

Octane is ONLY a measurement of how difficult it is to ignite the fuel. Once ignited, the temperature exceeds the fuel's flash point and it will continue to burn. A higher octane fuel is merely more resistant to preignition in a high compression engine.

 

it's amazing the delusions people are under regarding octane, thinking that they are gaining "performance" by running an octane that is higher than that for which the engine was designed. imagine how much money is wasted every year. educate yourself people!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

 

He did say E0, which if the 87 is E10 I don't doubt a 0.6% gain which I have seen between E0 and E10 87.

But 4mpg?

 

i have used seafoam and chevron. i have not used anything in my truck yet. the seafoam worked verywell in my boat and chevron worked ok in my old silverado. didnt notice that big of a change.

 

His difference is from the E0 vs E10... not between 87 and 91.

No argument that E0 will deliver better MPG than E10... and I wouldn't argue if someone claimed 4mpg

 

None, it is nothing but pure snake oil. You might as well just piss it away on drugs or hookers.
We have a couple of boats, RV, and a Corvette that stay in storage from October till May and never even use Stabilizer, which is another waste of money.

 

Used Seafoam on my 25hp 2 strokes mercury that had rough start. Now its a 1st pull start!!

I think its a good tool after a bunch a milage to use it.. but not every months

Maybe ill try it on my taco 2008 on march ( 108k miles )

 

Ok Jack. Just remember Ned told you so.

 

These are my rusults. I will post my Fuelly to confirm thoes.

I drive on average 1000 miles a month and have a 18gal tank. I drive about 60% highway but often sit in traffic. I have a really light foot and seldom have fast starts.

14mpg (252miles/tank) x 71.4gal = 1000miles - 87 E10
71.4 x 4.17 = $297.73 per 1000 miles/month

18mpg (324miles/tank) x 55.5gal = 1000miles - 91 E0
55.5 x 4.37 = $242 month

20mpg (360miles/tank) x 50gal = 1000miles - 91 E0 + Cleaner
50 x 4.37 = $218 month + $10 Lucas fuel cleaner = $228 month.

I agree that ethanol is the main cause of bad mpg but not the only cause. By the way, this fucking bullshit comes from is Toyota - Rich, jackhart, worthywads, Utard.

"1GR-FE 4.0L V6 from a 2007 Toyota Tacoma. The 1GR-FE is the 4.0L version. Bore is 94 mm and stroke is 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (183 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb-ft (382 Nm) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp at 5200 rpm with 278 lb-ft at 3700 rpm on 91 octane. This engine features Toyota's single VVT-i, variable valve timing, system and a compression ratio of 10.0:1. Inside, the 1GR uses a taper-squish combustion chamber design with matching pistons to improve anti-knocking and engine performance, while also improving intake and fuel efficiency. Toyota adopted a siamese-type intake port, which reduces the surface area of the port walls and prevents fuel from adhering to such walls. This engine has special cast-iron cylinder liners cast into the block, which are a spiny type to improve adhesion between the liner and cylinder block. With these special thin liners it is impossible to bore the block. In the event of cylinder wall damage (scoring, deep protrusions, etc), the entire cylinder block must be replaced. For increased block rigidity, the 1GR also receives a high temperature plastic insulator/protector, which fills the empty space between the outer portion of the cylinders and block material common to open deck engines. For increased cooling efficiency, the 1GR employs water passages between the bores of the engine. There are such 2 passages for each bank for a total of 4. This reduces cylinder hot-spotting and keeps combustion chamber temperatures more uniform."

 

November I ran 87 E10-15
Dec-Jan I ran 91 E0
Start of Febuary I added Lucas Fuel system cleaner

I still have to add my fuel ups from the last month. I know they have droped down to about 18mpg again. I will be adding the Cleaner again in the next few weeks.