Zuk on 38's

Amazing! Fapfapfapfap!

 

Anybody watching the motor video?

So, nobody is watching the video and there are no questions?

 

yer 1.3 is purdy... and sounds like it runs real nice.

I admire your machinist skillz
and wish I had those tools to build my junk.

This build is really neat to look at...
But I was wondering...
Your state's LEA has no concern about tires sticking out that far
from the wheel wells... on 'da street ?

Isn't that gonna be somewhat of a harsh ride and entry
if you have something disabling ?

I'm interested in seeing more...
can you hire someone to take it out and wheel it ?

I just want to see if it works... as bling as it looks

 

Just wanted to start by saying thanks for some good questions.

I also appreciate that you like my work skills. Been making parts for years for people
and now I can finally see what I can do for myself. There is a big investment that needs to be made to just buy the machines. You also have to tool up or you won’t be able to make anything.

Where I live it isn’t really too bad. I shouldn’t have any issues because there are a few trucks that have a similar tire setup.

The ride should be much better then what I have on the DD that I have. The springs that I’m using are the YJ’s and I also extended the wheelbase to help.

Really don’t want to discuss my disability because we are on the internet. Hope you understand. I can say this though, as far as getting in and out. I can do this but I wouldn’t want to have to do it more then a few times a day.

It won’t be ready for awhile yet. I wouldn’t have to hire anyone to take it out. I have people standing in line already.

I live in Florida and it is flat here and mostly mud holes, lakes and plenty of sand. The wheeling spots are getting harder and harder to find. You usually have to go out to someone’s private land.

I hope that I did an adequate job on answering your questions.

 

Toy-Zuk Hybrid Steering Link

Here are the parts I used to attach the Zuk steering column to the FJ80 box.

Toyota 1980 4x4 Steering Slip Yoke Link

Zuk stock steering link

NOTE:

These pieces were shortened, machined the ends for a press fit then tig welded.

The reason I used the Toy slip yoke was to let the shaft be able to move under flex. I have seen other parts used I thought this would be a better solution. I have had a couple Toy 4x4 and the slip link worked well.

 

Here is a comparison pic:

Without Front Bumper and Valance

With Front Bumper and Valance

 

I have looked at a lot of build threads the past bunch of years. I haven’t seen anyone use this trick or they never showed it. This is what I do before I even think about spending any money or proceeding with any mods.

I hope this Helps out.

My build was starting with the 38’s. I needed to see if these were going to fit and what is going to need to be done to accomplish the entire mod.

The trick is making a 38” wood tire out of plywood. The next thing is to get it in the air enough to fit the wood tire. Once this is done you start making a plan of attack.

The plan was to move the front axle 4-5 inches forward and the back axle 3 inch to the rear. There was also going to be a stretched front frame that worked out to be 8 inches. I also wanted to cover the extension as much as possible with the bumper.

This was just the minimum plan of attack and was very subject to change.

Here are a couple of pics to give you an idea what I’m talking about.


1st pic is of the 38" wood tire. I got a lot of yea rite when some of my friends stopped by. They have all since changed their minds.





2nd pic shows how to lay out the stretch. I used masking tape on the flair and marked the position with a marker. I used string taped on the mared position with a nut on the end to get my axle positions. I also found out that my jack stands were not nearly tall enough. If I remember rite I needed to go up about 7 more inches





This was a cheap extension out of wood for the stands to fix my problem. It worked out well.

 

subd! amazing build!

 

Got hooked on the Zuks again after reading about the bike carbs on the Zuk motor. Read all about that mod for about a year. Didn't really like what they had come up with as an intake. New I wanted to do one out of a solid block of AL.

There was a problem, I had no Zuk. Now I have 2.

This is going to be a pavement pounder and really don't want to take any chances with safety so everything is triple over engineered.

Thanks for the question

 

Its the little things that help the most. I find using wood and cardboard for mockup is very cheap and less time consuming to use. If it doesn't work out no big deal.

I even machine up my proto type pieces from wood first. Just to make sure they work out.


Wood Extended High Steer Arm





Finished Piece

 

Here is another thing I have not seen mentioned either. It is very important to get your suspension setup correctly.

Most of us have the Rig stripped down when we are setting it up for the new mods.

This is a Big Problem.

When you stick everything back in it the suspension you worked so hard to setup is not where you thought it was going to be setting. It is important to add weight back into the vehicle.

Try to add the weight where the parts are to be located.

This was my list:

1. Add sand bags to the inside to compensate for the parts that were missing. I got these cheap at Home Depot.

2. Add weights to the front extension to compensate for a front bumper. This is very important if you are going with a winch.

3. Add weights to the engine compartment for the missing engine.

Here is a pic of what it looks like.

 

Here is another example of not spending money on parts until I have a good idea that it is going to work.

Using materials I had laying around the shop consisting of:

Conduit Pipe
Duct Tape (used to wrap the threads on the Heims for a tight fit)
Masking Tape
Cardboard
Couple of 2x4 Wood Pieces
Couple old Heims from an old project.
2 old 5/8 Bolts

This was used to help me layout the Panhard Bar

Here is a pic Marked in detail to show you what was used.







After looking at the above example I thought I should show the parts in their proper position. This will give you a better idea what I was using them for.

 

I will let you take a look at the info before posting anymore.

Please feel free to ask questions if needed.

 

People always look at me funny when I make parts out of cardboard. At least im not alone

 

ill go ahead and ask what everyone is thinking:

about how much money did you put into this?

 

I have had a couple of comments about my cardboard muck up pieces on one of my other build threads. This is usually from the Cad guys.

This is always how I've done it. It is cheap and reliable and I always seem to get a good part.

I started calling it old school 3D Cad puts more meaning behind it.


You can see that I don't limit myself to just cardboard.

 

Not sure everyone is thinking this. I have 5 build threads going and you are the 1st to ask.

I would say that I'm closing in on the budget I set before starting.

 

I have a DD TT and it gets BAD road noise and when it rains it sounds like a tin shed. I knew that I was going to address this problem in the new Rig by installing Dynamat.

Here are a few pics of the new interior and the Dynamat process. I found by working in smaller pieces and get it pressed down tightly was the better way (JUST MY OPINION).

The firewall front cab and tunnel was a challenge. I also did the inside of the doors and inner panels.

Painted Interior





Roof DynaMat





Driver Side Rear Inner Panel DynaMat





Driver Side Panel & Seat





Headliner






PS Front Panel





Rear Panel





Back Mounting Bracket for Rear Panel (Front View)





Same Back Mounting Bracket for Rear Panel (Side View)

 

If there is any interest with the vehicle peeking in on the PS Front Panel pic let me know.

This is another build and can post a couple of pics and stats

 

I had an 8” drop for my steering. This ended up being a 13 degree drag link angle. The Rig will see mostly street use as you know and that much angle would be way too much.

Here was the solution I came up with.

1” drop FJ80 Steering Box
Box DS Frame Rail 1/4x5x24 Plate top, bottom, both sides
TG Drop Pitman Arm
4” Custom Extended Arm
TG 6 Shooters
Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket

With these mods I was able to achieve a 5 degree Drag Link and Panhard bar angle. This was now a safe, clean and expectable mod. IMHO

This is a closer view of the Extension and the Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket and in different views to give a better perspective. I believe that I have got them clearanced so there will not be any interference. I will have to start cycling the suspension just to double check.

The 6 Shooter arm added to the Extension will be Tig welded by a Pro down the street. The welds will be smoothed out on the bottom for the
Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket mouning surface. This gets bolted in place with a 9/16 Grade 8 bolt on the arm and (2) ½ Grade 8 socket head bolts on the ears. There will be 2 additional 90 degree gussets welded to the bottom side for piece of mind.


I got this done on Friday thought I would share some pics.


Marked View





Front View





Side View