Clutch replacement

Who has replaced their clutch? Who knows good companies to use for products? What's better for o.r. use.


Thanks.

 

exedy/daiken

I haven't done the clutch on my taco but I've done a few clutches both FWD and RWD vehicles. It's pretty simple. Do yourself a favor and buy or borrow a tranny jack. You can buy them cheap from harbor freight. It makes the job easier.

The hardest clutch I changed was an FD RX7. The flywheel is held on by one huge 50+mm nut with like 500 ft lbs of torque. It's a bitch to get off.

 

Work is covered, should I say labor...I just don't know what's better for trails, orig, orstage 3 etc etc

 

Unless you're making tons more power than stock or running really huge tires, a stock replacement should suffice. Anything else would be overkill and negatively affect driveability.

 

I'm at almost 75k miles and have done lts of wheeling and the snow seems to be where it burns the most. That and steep as rocky hills. It's prob gonna make it to 100k but wants parts on hand for when it does.

 

Clutchmasters and centerforce are pretty legit, I went back to the stock aisin brand because the stealership paid half.

 

100k is still low for a clutch, you must be burning it like crazy. I'm at 106k on the stock clutch and it's fine. I tow stuff on a regular basis and go wheeling. I towed a heavy load yesterday, ~2,500lbs and it didn't slip at all.

 

I have towed not sure tow weight but truck and trailer was about 9600 lbs. 26 times in last year. And was bought used. Any clutch better for o.r. use?

 

Stages are rated by clamping force when you get to the higher stages the clutch becomes either engaged or disengaged with out much in between so it makes them kind of a bear to drive around town.

 

run a stock aisin . they have aways worked very well . make sure u do not use a luk JUNK

 

Am I looking right? Aisin $611 and exedy $260

 

No way! That's way too much

Oh wait...must be lysdexic today. I thought I read your exedy price as $620

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...03.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

Then add another $40 to get your flywheel resurfaced.

Probably wanna replace the throwout bearing with the PDM kit too while you're at it.

 

Now I'm confused, clutch replacement is a good time to do flywheel? T/o bearing is the thing that sometimes causes issues on these guys. Does it affect clutch wear?

 

You always want to resurface your flywheel when you change the clutch. Similar to turning your rotors when replacing your brake pads. While you don't HAVE TO, it's usually a good idea so ensure you don't get any clutch chatter.

When I did my last clutch job, I found it was easier to buy a brand new flywheel from advance auto instead of trying to find a place to resurface it on a saturday. It was $90 for a new flywheel (price is obviously dependant on the vehicle). To me, the extra $50 was worth it.

Also, the throwout bearing is a $20 part, while you have the clutch assembly off you would be stupid to not replace it while you have everything apart. On the 6spds a lot of people (including me) have squeaky throwout bearings and the reason is the bearing and the input shaft are two different types of metal and will wear and become loose over time. The PDM kit solves this problem.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...bearing-release-bearing-issues-v6-6speed.html


Again, You don't NEED to do the PDM kit, you just might as well do it while you are doing the job to ensure you don't get a squeaky TOB again.

Also, USE LOCTITE ON THE FLYWHEEL BOLTS AND THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. Torque them in the proper sequence specified in the Toyota FSM.
Make sure you thoroughly grease the TOB and the input shaft when installing. Greasing the input shaft allows the splines on the input shaft to slide into the clutch disc much easier when re-installing the transmission.