Skid Row Skid Plates

I just ordered a full set (front, transmission, transfer case) of Skid Row skid plates. From the research I did on TW it sounds like they have some extra bracing that makes them stronger than the budbuilt skids.
Ordered all three for $678.
Can't wait to get them installed and test them out!

Anybody have experience with these? Are they just a bolt up install?

 

yes bolt up just like budbuilts IIRC

 

I just installed the front skid, nice slotted holes so everything lines up nice. Haven't bought the other ones yet but plan to.

 

i like their skid plate. i tried to order one without their logo cut-out, but they wouldn't sell me one.

 

Looks nice! Did they come with any of the mounting hardware??? My stock skids were missing a number of bolts when I bought the truck. Or do you know what size bolts are used, so that I could pick some up?

 

I just installed all 3 on my son's 1998 Tacoma two weeks ago. Easy install and comes with all brand new bolts.

The transfer case skid you have to drill 4 new holes (I think with a 5/8 drill bit but, it tells you in the instructions on their website).

One suggestion, start with the transfer case skid first. The front 2 bolts go into the factory locations do those at the very first but, leave them a little loose. Then drill out your 4 bolt holes (two are slotted holes to be able to adjust a little so do those second and loosely tighten). Then drill out the last holes and then tighten that skid all the way down.

Then do the transmission skid and finally do the engine skid. All in all, it was very easy and took maybe 30 to 45 minutes. And I am not much of a mechanic.

 

Very heavy duty steel! Adds some weight but a lot of armor. Super easy to install. Balance with your knees/legs and perhaps a bottle jack while you bolt it in.

Tough to see here, but you can kind of make it out.

 

Thanks for the tips! Good to know that they come with new bolts. Mabye I will get a friend to come help with the install so that I can have some help holding them in place, or the floor jack with have to be the helper!

The added weight with probably help settle the OME 883 coils I installed on the front. Then the next step will be buying/installing a winch in the ARB!

 

Just remember that the plates overlap each other and share the same bolt holes. So that is the reason why I started at the back one and worked my way forward.

Btw, I really like the plates. I can reach my oil filter and oil plug without taking them off now!

 

Thanks for the info!

Also good to know about the oil change info. The previous owner never took the factory skids off when draining the oil and there was probably 10+ lbs of oil/dirt built up on the skid itself! When I was in college I had a 1992 Mazda B2600i and I would always take the factory skid off when changing the oil. The extra 10 minutes or so made it much easier and cleaner to change the oil!

 

I bought these skids 3 years ago for a '00 4runner and it didn't work with the diff drop. Unless that has changed, it would have been nice to know that in advance. But I will say they looked strong. I sold them.

 

I don't have a diff drop but, I read somewhere that using washers for spacers is the cure for this.

 

Based on what I remember from 3 years ago, that would have to be a lot of washers. I don't think it was very close. But if people came up with a solution, thats good to hear.

 

I got the front & transmission plates coming by Friday. I'll try to post a pic after I throw them on this weekend.


Matt

 

Does this skid use the stock skid plate mounts?

 

I'd have the T-case skid reinforced before you install it. It'll save you headaches down the road. I'm running budbuilts but I'm wishing I had reinforced the belly pan because it's bent now, and gonna be a major pain getting it straight again.

Check out Scuba's build thread on TTORA. He runs full Skid Row armor underneath and goes into some detail about it, and the reinforcing he had to do after it got bent up. Here's the specific post about it.