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haha thanks! that actually helps a lot. I have a sram x9 rear der. my chain, rear der, and cassette only have like 5 rides on them.

 

Repair stand is money well spent! Makes tuning and building a breeze. I usually YouTube stuff I haven't done before, like changing air sleeve on RP23 was the last one.

 

yea I used youtube vids to help me install my rear der and chain. Once the kid goes to bed tonight Ill get out in the garage and see what I can figure out.

 

flipped my bike over and started checking things out. I think I found the problem. as I am spinning the pedals the chain moves fine until one point and I can see where there is a link that does not move freely as it should. One link gets kinda stuck in either and up or down angle and makes a "click" sounds as it moves over the rear der. I think when the bike is under load and as soon as that part of the chain goes over the cassette is jumps track and goes into 6th gear.

Would I be better off just getting a new chain or try taking my bike to the LBS and seeing if they can repair mine?
As I said before this chain is pretty much brand new with only 5 or 6 rides on it.
I tried using a degreaser and working the link around and re greasing it to get it to move more freely but I did not succeed

 

is there any damage to the link itself?

 

not that i can see. it just wont move freely like the other links

 

Do you have a chain tool?
you can free a link pressing the pin a little, you use the upper notch in the tool.
I can post a pict tomorrow.

 

no I dont have a chain tool. I should probably get one though...its just one of those things you never think about until you need it

 

handlebar ? for ya guys...

pros/cons on riser bars..

sounds like the flatter bar you get the better it'll be for the uphill control and the riser bars are better for more control when heading downhill (keeps you up and on your back seat more)..

sound about right?

i'm looking to move from my Easton EA50 that came on my bike with 685mm width, low rise weighing in around 195g

looking at a deal on a Sunline V1 OS Riser bar that has a width of 711mm and two options of rise, 19mm and 38mm rise...not really sure on which rise i should get...even with the 38mm rise and wider bars i should be able to cut some weight on the swap

i hate climbs, but something you gotta do to get the downhill (especially in colorado). so i'm leaning toward a riser bar to keep the downhill feel, but don't want it to be a pain when i'm climbing (a lot of our ascents are technical)..

any thoughts? am i on the right path? will i notice much difference between the rises? should i look for something wider than 711?

 

More rise will also allow you to sit up higher and take in more air when you're climbing.

That said, I think it's a personal decision and you won't really know till you try. Maybe you could find a LBS that will help you decide. Either because they have something similar installed a bike that's for sale or they have what you want in stock.

Good luck with your decision.

 

haha..very obvious answer that i spaced on..there is a shop a half block from my work too!

thanks!

 

I have a riser bar and I wouldnt have it any other way. I dont think I could stand to have a flat bar. Personal preference though.

I dont have any DH or uphills though, just windy singletrack with some small ups and downs with the biggest being maybe a 15-20 foot decent then back up .

 

not my video but one of my favorite trails in the front range...

enchanted forest, part of the apex trails in golden

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyD1-MHyF1Q?version=3


more sections of the trail system there

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7v4M5sSG0pY?version=3

the climbs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8-E3-FdCzI?version=3

 

Some riding I did over the weekend, really enjoying the warmer weather!

http://vimeo.com/37925310

 

Sweet video dude. those trails look fun. are they something you made or what?

 

^^^Sweet run Chris !

Been away for a bit
when you get one.. you can free a tight link by putting your chain in the upper notch and apply light pressure, this will spread the plates a bit.
in this picture the tool is sideways, typically the threaded part is "up"

 

Thanks. I'll see if the bike shop has a chain tool in stock I can grab. I was actualy up there erlier today getting new brake pads and I didn't even think about it while I was up there..

 

could someone please explain to my old, simple ass what the advantage is of these @#$%#@^! presta valves and why one would not just replace them the first chance they got with a schrader valve?

thank you

 

its easier to adjust the tire pressure while on the trail

and plus its made out of metal, not just rubber

 

x2

and also if your bike came with presta a schrader probably would not fit. plus it makes it a little easier to mount IMO. but i dont think there are any huge reasons.