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FINALLY Fixed my vibes!!!!!!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by lonecountryboy, Mar 6, 2012.

  1. Mar 10, 2012 at 11:25 AM
    #21
    justinhw

    justinhw Well-Known Member

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    ic, that's too bad i was hoping you could just swap flange yokes =(
     
  2. Mar 10, 2012 at 11:28 AM
    #22
    Taqoma

    Taqoma Well-Known Member

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    someday this all won't look like Japanese to me and I'll be able to read/understand wtf u guys are talking about :eek:
     
  3. Mar 10, 2012 at 11:56 AM
    #23
    justinhw

    justinhw Well-Known Member

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    lonecountryboy,

    How much slack is in that slip yoke? My driveshaft measures up to be 50.75inches. I think stretching it ~3" would be pushing it. I'll probably have to get it lengthened as well..
     
  4. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:04 PM
    #24
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    You rotate your pinion to nearly parallel with the DS?
     
  5. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:07 PM
    #25
    kane

    kane Well-Known Member

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    Just curious what the price difference would be to just go ahead and have them make your original into a one piece? Would this be a feasible solution?
     
  6. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:11 PM
    #26
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Don't think it'd be worth it, you're basically building a whole new shaft at that point. Gotta re-tube it and add the double cardan joint. At that point you're only using a single yoke and joint off your old shaft.
     
  7. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:28 PM
    #27
    lonecountryboy

    lonecountryboy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    justinhw what do you mean by slack? up and down or in and out? there is no up down but there is about 3-4"? maybe for the slip yoke to move.
    max don't understand the question I rotated the ds flange 90degrees to give me the most clearance between the holes so they weren't to close together, the inside of the flange on the driveshaft and the inside of the flange on the ds are made to slip inside of one another thats how they keep it centered don't know if that answered your question or not.
    Kane I priced a Tom Woods and a custom ds locally and the TW was about 550 delivered and the local was 600 so a significant cost reduction if you shop around for a good used one.
     
  8. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:43 PM
    #28
    gtdad66

    gtdad66 Well-Known Member

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    great info!
     
  9. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:44 PM
    #29
    justinhw

    justinhw Well-Known Member

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    You answered my question, thanks! I meant range for the slip yoke to move. Although it will probably fit for me without lengthening, it probably wouldn't have enough "slip" to allow for full flex of the axle.
     
  10. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:49 PM
    #30
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    I mean is your pinion pointed at the t-case and parallel with the drive shaft?

    With the CV double cardan joint you get a non canceling effect of the other u-joint which speeds up and slows down twice per revolution. Therefore the pinion needs to be almost parallel, maybe a degree under to counter axle wrap, with the drive shaft. To keep that u-joint angle at a minimum when under load, thus lessening the vibration from the speed/slow process the u-joint undergoes.
     
  11. Mar 10, 2012 at 12:59 PM
    #31
    wolftree

    wolftree Well-Known Member

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    Good job.
     
  12. Mar 10, 2012 at 2:20 PM
    #32
    lonecountryboy

    lonecountryboy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Max ahh I see what you mean, the pinion is a little off from pointing exactly at the t-case but so far I have no vibes so I haven't bothered to measure it.
     
  13. Mar 10, 2012 at 4:47 PM
    #33
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Okay, just to clarify with my last post. You might know this but figure I'll explain for others. Since you have a double cardan, it acts like a CV or constant velocity joint. Therefore unlike a regular u-joint which speeds up and slows down (which translates into a vibration if you don't cancel it out with the other u-joint), the CV just spins at a constant velocity. Since normally you have a u-joint on either end they cancel each others speeds, thus you get no vibration. With a double cardan joint it won't cancel the u-joint on the other end, so it needs to be at next to 0* operation angle, thus it won't speed up and slow down during a revolution. If you set it down 1 or 2* then when you accelerate the tendency for the pinion to rotate up is accounted for (leaf spring axle wrap), and you should have minimal to no vibration.

    If yours works, then great, just wanted to explain. Nice work, this is probably one of the best ways to eliminate vibration in our shafts IMO.
     
  14. Mar 10, 2012 at 4:49 PM
    #34
    kane

    kane Well-Known Member

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    I have access to a lathe would it be worth my time to buy a driveshaft from junkyard use the yolks and cv and make a one piece then take it and have it balanced?
     
  15. Mar 10, 2012 at 5:56 PM
    #35
    jsilver

    jsilver Member

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    Just out of curiosity, do you know what your shaft to TC output angle is now?? The reason I ask is mine with the 2 piece stock shaft is about 5*. I have read that optimal is to keep it under 3* and am worried at the potential new vibrations with a 1 piece at this angle. I'm just about to pull the trigger on a 1 piece and if I do it I know my angle will stay at about 5*. I was going to get a local shop build me a shaft with single u joints at either end, the double cardan(cv) is about $400 so wasn't an option. After reading your post I'm now considering your route but I don't know how critical it is to have the double cardan to have a good result. The single cardan is apparently more forgiving at higher angles...
     
  16. Mar 10, 2012 at 5:58 PM
    #36
    greenrustic

    greenrustic Well-Known Member

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    OP - Can you explain in further detail the noise you were hearing? I think this may be my problem too. I've been scratching my head over it since I drove my truck off the lot in December. Here is a link to my thread trying to have all you good folks help me figure it out it includes a video capturing the noise.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...r-case-chain-can-anyone-else-hear-theirs.html

    Let me know if you can if you think this is similar to what you experienced. My truck is not lifted though it seems you had this noise right off the lot too. If this is the fix I too will be able to fix the only thing that is driving me crazy about this truck. Thanks for the help.
     
  17. Mar 10, 2012 at 7:57 PM
    #37
    drsus

    drsus Well-Known Member

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    this fix is genius....except that i refuse to have to do this to a brand new truck with only 1000 miles on it! WTF....TOYOTA should take responsibility for a fix, why am i walking through a junkyard to fix my brand new truck?
     
  18. Mar 10, 2012 at 8:10 PM
    #38
    seric007

    seric007 Well-Known Member

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    :amen:


    but this is what toyota thinks

    :rofl:
     
  19. Mar 10, 2012 at 9:18 PM
    #39
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    The double cardan is better for high angles. You basically split the angle between the two u-joints in the DC(CV) joint. Then rotate the pinion up and you no longer need to worry about operating angles. You should see longer life out of the u-joints now as well, and you still have 3 of them, like stock so you're not having to replace more.
     
  20. Mar 10, 2012 at 9:19 PM
    #40
    Balot64

    Balot64 Well-Known Member

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    #40

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