Which 3" lift kit?

Hey all,

Im looking to raise my 2012 double cab Trd, 3" would be nice.........which lift kit do you recommend?

Looking at $250-$350.........I've read the guide but anyone have one they like?

Should I do spacers or maybe just 5100s? Also any mechanical issues if mostly staying on the road? Ball joints? Cvs? Is a diff drop recommended?

That's in advance!

 

NO SPACERS.... Just go with the 5100's and AAL in the back and you'll be happy. And no diff drop in needed. congrats on the new truck too

 

I would suggest you budget more than $300 to alter the suspension on a truck you just paid $40K for .

Welcome from BC

 

trd's are 40k up there?

 

I am new on here and have been researching the same thing you are. I went to numerous 4x4 shops here in town and have been asking a ton of questions. When I mention 5100s they ask me why I would want to replace brand new shocks. Every single one of them recommended a leveling kit with a spacer. Now I know most of the vocal guys on here disagree, but I don't plan on doing a ton of off roading and I just wanted the lift for some larger tires to get me in and out of the hunting woods. I just ordered a kit from LowRangeOffroad.com and it looks like it is going to be great. I like how it has the tapered rear blocks and the drop differential to keep all of your factory geometry in line. It promises to keep the factory ride as well. Check it out.

 

Thanks for the quick replies!

Do you recommend 5100s all around or just the front?

I agree I should spend more than $300.....that's just the prices I've seen for spacer kits......just don't have the money for complete coil overs or other proper lifts.

And yes, with taxes and all trds come close to $40k up here......

Thanks!

 

Spacers cant keep factory ride, how they're designed it cant. Every truck that ive rode in that have had spacer lifts are always stiff and rougher then stock. The diff drop doesnt do anything on 2nd gens thats why nobody really runs them.

@mikedaddy hope it works for you but dont be surprised if your not happy, or if you can ride with somebody that has a suspension lift (5100's or coilovers etc) and see the difference...

 

I would get them at all 4 corners i have them in back on my truck and love them. Have you thought about the OME lift?

 

Yes

 

Thanks again!

I looked and there is a post stating the OME kit is $699? Sound right?

I would consider it, would be nice, just have to see if I can afford it.

Thanks!

 

You could consider the OME 885 kit , this got me 2 1/2" up front on my DCLB 4x4

 

The reason you replace brand new shocks is adjustability and better valving which = better ride.

Here's why you don't want a spacer lift:
http://www.camburg.com/toyota/00-06-tundra/read-before-buy-spacer-lift/
A tall spacer lift allows the shock to bottom out before the LCA hits the bump stops. The shock is not meant to absorb that kind of impact and the force can snap the shock. At this point you're telling yourself "I don't off road, I don't race my truck, why would I care about that?" You don't have to be a desert racer to bottom out a soft, factory suspension and it only takes once to snap the shock leaving you out of commission.

As far as the blocks, they induce axle wrap which can prematurely wear out a perfectly good leaf pack. Axle wrap is not exclusive to off roading, it can happen every time you go to take off from a stop.

While the spacer lifts are a cheap way to get your truck riding taller, they can cost you a lot of money in the long run. I agree with OZ, why put the cheapest parts you can find on an expensive truck?

 

The billies will only get you 2 1/2" max from your stock coils and they will ride fairly stiff at that setting as they are pre-loading your coils to acheive the lift .

Save your money and get a decent set up

 

I'd be curious to see how you like this setup. From what I've been told (even by my dealer), if you don't do much wheelin', a spacer/block kit is a decent cheap alternative to get a little lift for looks and bigger tires. The LRT kit looks like a top notch spacer/block kit. While I'm still on the fence with which way I'm gonna go, my truck will see road use 99% of the time, and I'm just not sold yet that a spacer/block kit is a bad idea for this type of use. While the 5100's seem like a decent way to go, I'm just not a fan of AAL with our trucks' relatively soft leaf springs. To get the 5100's and a complete set of rear springs, you're still looking at probably $750-$800. Let us know how you like it after you get it installed and ride on it for a few months.

 

Top notch and spacers/blocks don't belong in the same sentence. 5100's for the front are a much better solution for an inexpensive lift. Even if you don't off road, you still want it to drive and handle well. As far as an AAL, if you want a smooth AAL, look into the Wheeler's 3-leaf of the Icon 3-leaf AAL. They ride very very smooth and don't cost anywhere near as much as a replacement leaf pack. A block can kill the already soft Toyota leaf springs.

 

I also have a 2012 and wanted the same thing... I am 2wd so cv axle wear is not a problem... I went with the 3" toytec and love it....rides a little stiffer than stock but I felt like the stock bilsteins were stiff anyway. Gave me plenty of room to clear 285/70/17 nitto trail grapplers with no rubbing. I highly recommend if you don't plan on going offload...which I wouldn't take my 30k truck anyway

I have the toytec spacer and blocks btw

 

My truck sees mainu street use but i refused to do spacers and blocks. Save some more money and then go with a 5100s setup or OME.

 

Can someone explain this pre-loading OZ is talking about? I've heard it several times before but don't understand what it is.

Yes, I'm a suspension newb.... not to be confused with a noob either. I got an OME kit and Dakars I'm saving for, but still want to know the terminology

 

pre loaded means the spring is already "loaded" and assembled on the strut, and is held in place with plates, some adjustable on the gas strut. such as the billie 1500s, they are adjustable, in three settings. the higher you set the plate for the spring/ring, the more tension you are putting on your spring "pre loading it. thus having a harsh ride if you adjust billie 1500s up to the 1.75 or 2.5 setting with stock coils

 

that didn't quite help.... you mean more like "compressing" the spring? You move the spring plate farther up the shock/strut, and compressing it in the process?