Anybody install Switchback flashers in a 2012?

Got my LED lamps/bulbs from CSJumper and was able to do everything but front flashers. Apparently the 2012's have a 3 wire set up going to the socket and I'm not sure how to wire in the resistors.

Also, anyone who knows the correct flasher relay for use with DTRL's (I know it's a 12 pin caddy relay) please drop me the 411 if possible. I called Oreilly's and they need a specific year for the Caddy to get me the relay.

Anyone with insight to these issues please feel free to chime in.

 

I am wondering the same thing because this is something I want to tackle as well.

 

What is the point of running LEDs if you have to run resistors? Color change or looks? You won't really save power (the resistors will need to use similar power to simulate the bulbs), and LEDs often have inferior light output when installed in housings not designed for it.

I have a neighbor with LEDs in his Passat, and his brake lights are two stupid little dots.

 

There's a number of reasons to run LED's, among which, the most prominent is PERSONAL PREFERENCE. As for the heat issue.....have you tried running your current DTRL's for even 30 seconds then feeling the heat emission from the lamps/bulbs? I had chronic burn thru issues with the DTRL lenses in my 2009. Didn't wanna waste time replacing the ones in my 2012, and I prefer to have all my lights matching. So you could say my reasons for switching to LED are a combination of both form and function. I don't think saving power is ever the motivating factor for an LED swap in an auto....maybe in commercial or residential lighting.

Running the resistor is less than ideal for me, but it's the lesser of 2 evils. I can easily mount it to a metal heatsink on the frame as opposed to having the incandescent lamps burning my lenses.

Now you got some solid argument to change yours too. Get a quality set and you'll be glad you made the switch.

Back on topic.....so anyone got the 411? Any LED pro's got any insights to this?

 

I certainly understand personal preference, but we're talking about vehicle safety systems. Changing the lighting on vehicles can be confusing or distracting to other drivers.

My personal preference would have been to leave my Lightforce 240's on driving down a dark interstate regardless of traffic, but that's not particularly appropriate.

I haven't say turned on my DRL's and held the bulb to see if it gets hot, but I have posted a potential solution to this problem using appropriate bulbs on this board a few times now.

I have a 2009, and installed the Toyota DRL module about two years ago. Fearing the melting issue myself, I did a little digging and found something that works great.

GM had some issues prematurely burning out bulbs on some of their cars. So, instead of fixing the root cause, they created a new bulb spec that runs at 14v instead of 12.8v. When running these bulbs in a truck like ours that does not have this issue, they will run a tad cooler than the original bulb spec. They are otherwise near-identical.

Since correlation=/=causation, I can't specifically say these new bulbs prevent the issue, however in two years I have had no detectable lens deterioration.

I'm not quite convinced yet, so bear with me.

Each light on a vehicle has photometric performance standards that it needs to adhere to (per federal regulations). Not all of these standards are say the "best of the best", but they are intended to balance performance, glare, etc. They are color standards to be met (signal lights are amber, brake lights red, etc) and illumination standards (brightness of running lights versus brake lights). The reflectors are designed specifically for their intended light source, and just like swapping halogen headlights to HID, changing that source changes their performance characteristics--sometimes drastically.

If you install LEDs that are not bright enough, they will be ineffective. If they are too bright, they will be a distraction. DRLs need to have a minimum brightness to be effective.

You're also significantly upping the parts count in a LED system. In most systems, increased parts count equals increased failure rate.

Light bulbs themselves are tested and have to meet their specification, standards which the aftermarket LEDs are not held to (unless the no-name Chinese manufacturer has their own stringent quality control) as they are not DOT (or ECE) compliant to begin with. We see this a lot with HID: there's not a company I've ever heard of that makes aftermarket HID units that are comparable to the quality of a GE or Philips D2S. I'm also not aware of a single OEM application that uses LED-conversion bulbs; they are all specifically application-engineered.

I won't say OEM designs can't be improved upon, because that is ridiculous, but an OEM spending millions on computerized testing equipment and engineering staff will usually trump cheap aftermarket parts.

Anyway, you've made your points and I've made mine, and doubtful either one of us will change our minds so I'll leave it at that. Hopefully you'll get the help you want and solve your issues.

 

Dave, if you figure this out, could you do a tutorial? been wanting to do this too.

 

Found this from another forum: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/50W-Load-Resistor-Blinkers-License-Plate-Light-Fix-p/led_load_resistor.htm

 

Good post Justin. Reps bro. If this is as simple as the diagram shows....that would be great!

 

Mark, Imma confirm that diagram from Justin and see what's up...hopefully today.

 

I also read on a Tundra forum where a user just had one resistor installed per side of the vehicle (to handle Driver's Side Front and Rear, then Passenger's Side Front and Rear) but he installed LEDs in his tail lights as well as his headlights. Since some 2nd gen Tacomas already have LED's in the rear, we can't use that method.

On HIDPlanet.com I read that these resistors get pretty warm or sometimes hot so they should be mounted on sheetmetal away from platics. Now I have no idea where I'll be mounting both of mine

Tundra forum thread:

 

Jus, I'm about 20 mins away from giving it a shot. Will keep y'all posted in this thread....with pics. Hopefully it works.

 

Back to the drawing board....Should be getting some schematics from the local toyota dealership tech soon.

 

Ok guys so the reason for leds point blank on the dtrls is to stop the heat melting stuff. That is if you just want a nicer amber color. The other mod I have now done allows you to get rid of the amber dtrls, but keep your amber turnsignals that you have to have by law. The resisters are needed on 09+ tacomas due to the dtrl feature. There isnt a replacement flasher for them yet. Resisters due the same thing. They trick your computer to stop hyperflashing or blinking fast.

 

Thanks Chris.....can't wait to get it figured out. Will be in touch. Sorry I'm such an electronics noob! LOL

 

It cool. Glad we could get it taken care of. I'm a firm believer with questions get answers. Without questions I never know if someone needs answers.

 

^^^ Top notch service. Chris spent over an hour with me on the phone just today LOL

 

Did you guys get it figured out? I haven't had the chance to install the switchbacks I got from Chris in my 2012 yet, but I was thinking of doing it this weekend.

There's another thread where they talk about modifying the flasher unit itself to alleviate the hyperflashing. Specifically, if you open it and grind down the resistor hoop with a Dremel, the comparator circuit will conclude that your setup is OK (since you've lowered the reference resistance). This way, no resistors are needed. I guess some guys have made it work, but I'm trying to evaluate all the options.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...placement-stock-drl-flasher-no-resistors.html

It's important that the LED towers you use for this method are 3157s though, because the ones for a two-wire socket will short and pop a fuse. I'm not sure which ones Chris sells, I've been meaning to PM him.

 

We didn't figure it out yet. I did make a post regarding the 2012 flasher relay in the thread you're referring to. I have not confirmed the outcome of grinding down the SW1/2 hoops (see below quote). I did note that with just the (2) resistors running in the back, I didn't experience hyperflash in the front's during use of the hazard flashers.

Beyond that, I was popping fuses and spoke with Chris about some solutions. We are working on the resolve. By all appearances, being that the 12's have a 3rd wire which should supply power, it should be a plug n play application.

Tip to anyone looking to install resistors for the front signals....tap the white/black & yellow down near the battery tray/corresponding area on passenger side, so you can mount them far away from plastics and mount to the sheetmetal. Those biatches get hot.

 

Keep us updated for resolution, as this is the only thing holding me back from getting all ext. LEDs from Chris. Just want to do them all at once. Thanks.

 

The 12s are plug n play for amber daytime running lights and white nighttime running lights. You need resisters which as stated above are very easy to install, anf i give instructions on how ti wire them. If your wanting white daytime running lights then hit me up. There is a fix for that as well.