1st Gen Bilstein 5100 Part Numbers

hey Is it true that if you use taller springs (for example the 881s) with the front 5100s that it will limit the down travel of the shocks?

I thought that the 5100s were designed to work with a 0 to 3 inch lift...

 

No, that doesn't sound right. The longer shocks (5100s) work with the longer springs (881s are about 2 inches over stock) so that downtravel will not be limited.

 

Ok thanks.

 

has anyone had to replace the rea shocks yet. how long did it take and can i do it in garage with simple tools. is there a vid on it or steps? does anyone have any good tips. im replacing my this weekend with replacement bilsteins

 

It's about as basic as a job can be (this assumes you don't live in a heavy snow/salt area, in which case you should have a sawzall, flamethrower, and hand grenades handy). Four bolts, a little grease. You'll want to grease the rubber bushings a little so they slide on easier. I suggest hanging it from the top first and just start that bolt so the shock hangs loosely without falling off as you use both hands to push (compress) the bottom up and onto the axle. You can jack up the rear of the truck a bit so you don't have to compress the shock as much to get it on.

I think it is 17mm (or 19, can't remember) bolts, 53 ft lbs on all four. See attached diagram.

 

little help please. i need 4 new shocks(front and rear) and i live on a ruff ass dirt road so i thought i might as well get the best of the best (bilsteins)! so here is where i need help......which 1s do i need if i have a 3" lift??

 

what would be a good front coil for the 5100s instead of stock.or should i just replace the stocks

 

I want to get these shocks but I'm wondering if they will fit my 2.5 inch suspesion lift.

 

what exactly do you mean by inch lift? body lift?

 

The 5100 series will accomodate a 3" lift..

From what info I've gotten the Eibach/ToyTek coils perform best with the 5100's , this is the route I'm going.

Yes...

 

Interesting that there are 5100s for the rear, with different part numbers drivers side and passenger side, same on Down South Motorsport's site, but I was told the rears are not good for stock ride-height, that quote, "If leaving the rear suspension stock, the compression bump stop on chassis may need to be modified."

Anyone using the 5100 rears on the OE ride-height without blowing the shock?

Also maybe a good update for the first post/thread, anyone have the Toyota part numbers for the rubber stem cushions and washers for two front struts? Don't want to re-use my 180K ones.

 

I finally installed the package I ordered from Down South, 5100 fronts set to OE ride height (IMO actually the lowest perch seems to be a tad bit higher than OE, leveling the truck), and 5125s in the rear as I'm staying at the OE ride height for now.

I didn't get the new OE rubber mount parts (my old ones are cracking a bit...), but I did buy the shocks with the optional boots, just to give me a warm fuzzy that no debris finds itself wearing down the seals.

Edit*
5100- Great shocks- not overly harsh at all, but sure as heck fixed the sway and certain bouncy tendencies my truck had, having the passenger side OE shocks blown. You can tell they are off-road valved vs. road comfort valved such as the KYB Monomax. If one is looking for street driving replacement only, the KYBs sound to be valved for that, more so than the 5100s. Still- Bilstein delivers- I can see why Down South gets them by the crates, and still runs out time to time.

The 5125s I got for the rear as I was not lifting the truck-- ensure you install them 'right side up', despite all the interwebz arm chair engineers saying it doesn't matter, for whatever reason on these shocks, it does. 5125s come in one flavor, 255/70. Its not bad, but IMO I would like the 170/60 better. I like firm and highly dampened feel in a sporty car or autocross build- the scene I'm coming from, but with my truck I have all this wheel travel potential I didn't have with my cars, and no need to improve lateral Gs, so I want to put the travel to use and make it a pot-hole eating cruiser- the 5125s are too firm. Maybe I'll change my mind when off roading and the 5125s are more controllable than the 5100 fronts.

 

FYI

I just ordered a set of 5100's for my 2004 4x4 from DSM. They came WITH bushings...

I asked at DSM for the bushings, and they said I'd have to get them at the dealer, so which bushing are we talking about here? The rear shock bushings? Or the upper bushings on the front (the ones that go between the upper shock perch)??

 

No I'm still running the 1st gen Tundra 5100's with stock coils, but from all info i got the Eibach's will give a true 3" lift with the billies set at zero & remain within specs for alignment according to the REP I talked to...

 

Edited into content in earlier post.

 

Your problem isn't from shocks, if your still stock sprung in the rear, more than likely thats where your issues with lane dancing down the road are going to be, I've been running my 5125's with a 3" lift with flawless on/offroad performance

 

Flipped the shocks and its much better.

The 5125s are a 255/70 valving, IMO our lightweight truck should run the 170/60 IMO. I drive slow when offroading though and have had times when going fast the front 5100s can't seem to keep things buttoned down. Like zbaldo says below, the 5125s to clasp things down some, if one is into high speed running, I can see the advantage.

 

My 5125's are like my new bed firm but can take the beating.

 

Are the rears two different lengths? What is different about them that they have different part numbers?

Reason I ask is I think mine are on the wrong sides. Checking right now.

 

Well I literally just checked and they are backwards. Let's hope 15000km wasn't enough to wreck anything. Didn't do off road, service roads a few times.