Why does Crutchfield show a 5.25" speaker?

Why does Crutchfield show a 5.25" speaker for the doors on a regular cab? When I pulled the panel back to have a look, it looks like a 6.5" speaker. Any thoughts? Is there any reason I can't install a 6.5 if I mount it with a baffle?

Thanks.

 

I can't say with certainty, since I don't own a regular cab, but I suspect it's a speaker depth issue. IIRC, Crutchfield says larger speakers WILL fit, "with alteration"...

 

I put in 5.25s and 6.5s

 

Sweet, how did you mount, and how are they crossed? Does factory grill fit, I assume so?

 

I made a fiberglass pod that spaced the speakers out so the window will go all the way down, the 6.5 sticks out further on the outside but both the magnets on the inside are even. Countless hours were involved to make these. Speaker grill? LOL, I took a jigsaw and cut a big hole in my doors. I'm in the process of makin a plexiglass cover for the big "hole".

 

After looking a tad closer, I can see that now.

 

Sure about 6x9 on the RC?

I was concerned about the ********* adapters being for "round" speakers, but lo and behold, these are my stock speakers:

 

I'm a DC and they appear to be 6x9. But they look the same, that shit is nice they put in from the factory ain't it? Can't believe they sound as well as they do.

 

Indeed.

I upgraded because mine were muddy as hell. FM music was worthless and not worth listening to, they were okay on newsradio.

I thought it was because the tweeters were either not included in the RC Base, or they were complete shit.

But those primary speakers?
Yes, I can stick a tweeter to one and lift it by the tweeter.
I can BARELY lift the tweeter by the speaker.
Speaker to speaker? Zero mutual attraction/repulsion.

 

The door openings are certainly more than adequate for the 6.5 and maybe even larger, but I don't think a 9" would fit.

Here's the ********* adapter... For the Polk DB6501 midrange I ended up drilling right about the middle of the "n" on the "*********" engraving.

http://shop.*********.com/images/11560127201671373845789.jpg


I guess I could run out to the garage tomorrow and measure the lip on the original speaker... that is the size of the door opening.

 

Holy Hell! No wonder the stock setup sounds so terrible.

 

Thanks man. I would appreciate it.

 

This guy's system sounds AMAZING!!!!!

 

The flange is just a smidge under 6", so I'd say that the opening in the door is either right on 6" or just a hair over.

The problem with aftermarket speaker measurements is that the "6" is a nominal measurement. A 6.5" speaker will generally not require a 6.5" cutout. Because of basket material, there might be a 6" speaker with a cast basket that requires a larger cutout than a different type 6.5" speaker with a stamped basket.

The biggest issue with the Taco (since virtually any 6.5" speaker will fit) is the magnet depth interfering with the window.
This is not unique to the Taco... my '03 Tundra had that issue too. The Tundra didn't have the luxury of a large pocket on the door panel, the grille was pretty tight against the speaker.
The solution was to remove the bolt that secured the bottom of the front window track and reinstall a longer one with a couple of nuts as a spacer.
You could go to 2 nuts (about 1/2-3/4") before it flexed the glass enough to overload the power window motors.

The ********* kit will let you run a speaker with a mounting depth about 3/4" deeper than without an adapter.
Of course, ********* is not the only source for a spacer, but it's a bolt-on ready to roll.
They've had a lot of bad press about customer service. All I can say is I ordered a kit for my Polk DB6501 set and it shipped the next day.
But...
I sent them an email with a question on wiring because of the 4-wire harness on the tweeter, and they never responded.

 

Have you been happy with the polk 6501's? Fitment okay? That's what I have been eying.

 

Fitment was great with the ********* adapters.
I'm sure they would have fit fine with the adapter rings that Sonic shipped (I got the set from Sonicelectronix for about $70 less than Crutchfield), but the tweeters would need some creativity with plumber's tape or a piece of aluminum barstock.
Was the ********* kit worth it? For plug and play? Ya.. it was worth it to me. For someone with the time to fabricate mounts? No.

As for sound, I've been running the stock HU, so they aren't THAT much better than stock, but at least now music on FM is enjoyable.
I was going to install the HU this weekend but the weather put a stop to that.

I mounted the crossover horizontally under the armrest. I drilled a small hole in the door panel and secured it with one 8-32 x 1" screw.

The Polk tweeter and mid connect directly to the crossover. The factory harness connects to the crossover's input (the ********* kit includes the adapter, but is too short for where I mounted the crossover).

The main issue is the factory tweeter wiring... and this is what ********* never responded to in my email.
The factory tweeter plugs into a 4-wire connector. 2 red, 2 black.
The harness ties together under the sheath near the tweeter.
If you just unplug the tweeter, it cuts off power to the main speaker, so you need to unplug the tweeter, cut it's harness a few inches above the connector, and then splice the wires together.
Red splices to red, black splices to black. Solder, cover with heat-shrink tubing, and plug it back into the harness on the door.

 

i've got the polk's as well. fit fine. for the tweeter, i used the factory tweeter as the mount. tore the factory tweeter out and secrured the polk tweeter to it. worked great.

 

Never thought about that... I'm just too used to keeping my OEM parts for reinstallation when it's time to trade/sell... but I never do

 

I'm happy to hear I'm not the only one who does this. (Drives my wife nuts...)

 

i've kept my stuff as well, and it will go back in, unless the buyer wants to pay for it.