How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

You are 100% correct. That was basically the same approach I took. The first five went very quickly. I only removed the air box from the passenger side, one vacuum hose and loosened the support bracket on driver side closest to the fire wall. Very easy. Might have something to do with my extremely small hands also. No size joke please

 

The guys at toyota recommended me to change my plugs on my next visit. Wasn't too sure if I want to spend the extra moolah. This is awesome!

 

Did you change any other items or just the plugs ? This will be my first spark plug change. Oh and Chris i also live in S Fl , just on the east side

 

With this thread it is only for changing the spark plugs. There are other maintenance things you have to do every 30,000 miles. More info here:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...nance-2nd-gen-30-000-60-000-90-000-miles.html

There are write-ups on how to do these here on TacomaWorld

 

So let's pretend I forgot to plug back in one of the harnesses to the coil and started my truck up before I realized my mistake (truck shook a bunch). Well I plugged it back in after I did a check on everything and saw that it was still unplugged and started my truck up again and it was all fine. Except now my check engine light is on. What possible damage could I have done to my truck?

 

Edit: light went off after a few hours of driving.

 

Thanks Chris for those pics, tips, etc! Not hard at all, I swear my taco idles smoother...

 

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this. Just finished doing mine. Took me just about an hour to do all six.

 

I'd like to extend a big thanks to Chris 4x4, the guy who started the thread, for taking the time to post up this how-to.

Your thread definitely made this job go faster and more smoothly for me.

I only had one 3/8" drive extension (a 2"), so I went and got a 10" extension from Auto Zone ($6.99). The 10" extension worked fine. On the drivers side rear cylinder, I used the 2" in combination with the 10".

I did loosen the bracket Chris talks about on the drivers side, and I removed the hose. I didn't find it necessary to take the plastic wire bundle stay loose. Since I didn't take it loose, however, I had to be careful not to x-thread that front drivers side plug, since that bundle was in the way a bit.

I used Autolite Iridium plugs, mainly because that's what Auto Zone had in stock for the truck ($6.99 each), but also because I don't want to have to do it again any time soon:


The Autolite plugs were pre-gapped (.041").

Here are the stock plugs - 3 Denso on the pass. side and 3 NGK in drivers side, just like Chris said. These were the original factory copper plugs, and they have 92,000 miles on them. Only one of the plugs looked to have any significant erosion (#3 from right, which came out of the driver's side rear cylinder). Anybody have a guess as to why that particular plug was more eroded? Another thing I noticed was that the overall condition of the NGK plugs was worse than that of the Denso plugs. You can tell that just from the photo:

 

What does plug type have to do with change interval?

 

Plugs that have electrodes with a platinum or iridium component last longer than standard copper-electrode plugs. The harder, denser metal isn't eroded as quickly by the electrical arc, and by the harsh environment within the combustion chamber, as the standard copper plugs. Additionally, the noble metals (platinum or iridium in this case) are superior electrical conductors, so, theoretically, they deliver more current and allow the ignition system to work more efficiently.

However, I noticed that the cross-section of the electrode in the iridium plugs is quite a bit narrower than the one in the copper plug. (Electrical resistance of a conductor decreases as cross section increases. Electrical resistance of a conductor is a function of material used, and cross section. So, since the electrodes of the copper plugs are larger, they may, in fact, be delivering just as much current as the iridium-tipped plugs.) Another example of this is the fact that when switching from aluminum wire to copper wire, you can use smaller-gauge wire, since the copper wire is a better conductor.

Many vehicles today come from the factory with iridium or platinum-tipped plugs, hence the advertised 100K+ mile plug change interval.

 

Ah, you actually replied. I was being a smartass and that was rhetorical. Let me try again:

Plug change interval is not negotiable by plug type for a number of reasons. Precious metal plugs shouldn't change your plug interval if the engine wasn's designed for them in the first place. If you really want to void your warranty and improperly maintain your engine though, go for it, although you may be at a moot point on that one mileage/monthwise.

 

Plug change interval is not negotiable by plug type for a number of reasons?

Please, tell us - what would some of those reasons be?

Also, how would one be improperly maintaining his engine by using a spark plug that will stay within specs longer?

 

Love my Iridium spark plugs. 2005 runs like the day I bought it. Toyota service/dealer loooked up the chart and told me I can run them like he has for the last 90K. For each there own.

 

Great write-up, Thanks a ton!! I just did mine for the 30K, and took your suggestion, enjoying a Corona......much satisfaction!

 

thanks for the info on spark plugs---it gets a little tight on the driver side...WB