OEM roof rack installation

I just purchased the OEM roof rack for the secound gen Tacoma. I was wondering about the installation. I hear it is bolt on. Is it a very invovled process or easy. I generlly install all my mods on my truck myself. Any info would be much appreciated

 

its easy, just follow the instruction manual

 

It is an easy installation, I did mine in about 20-25 minutes.

 

Where did you buy your roof rack? I want one but I wonder if I should go to the dealer and get it or just keep searching.

 

Quick and easy as previously mentioned. Just follow the directions and done. Easily 30mins ~ 10 mins per side with 10mins deciphering the directions and sorting your parts.

 

Thanks for the info on install. Just didn't want to get into creating any problems like leaks or whatever. I purchase mine from the dealership as per AsrtroluxAtom. You really don't save money getting it else where and your prob better off getting it at the dealer.

 

Like others have said its very easy. Do a google search on the rack and check some online stores. I got mine (can't remember where from) for $212 shipped.

 

I ordered mine last week and it should be here this week. Really looking forward to getting it installed. Does the hardware kit include the required torx bits or do I need to go out and buy them? Thanks for the help in advance!

 

It is an easy installation.

 

Make sure your torque wrench is for inch pounds, even tho the directions are labeled ftlb-in. You will easily snap the head of the bolts and turn a 30 minute job into a 3 hour job extracting a bolt

 

You really don't need a torque wrench to do this. If you use a 1/4" ratchet with the hex bit attachment just tighten the bolts until they are snug. Using the small 1/4" ratchet should prevent you from overtightening them--which is what you are trying to avoid. Also, it is pretty typical for the front of the racks on at least one side to not sit completely flush. When you use the awl to pull the front holes into position move it around until you get the most "flush" fit and then snug the bolts down (this should make sense once you read the directions). I did notice on the most recent one I installed that Toyota is now putting some sort of spacer between the rack and the weatherstrip at the front to help it sit more flush.

 

Do you know what size hex bits I need? Thanks for everyone's help!

 

You need two sizes. I think a T25 and a T30. You can buy a set of like 8 bits and an attachment for a 1/4" ratchet. Something like this would be perfect.

 

Thanks!

 

And the best thing about the HF bits is you can't overtorque the fastener.

The tool will strip out long before any grade-3 bolt

 

When I ordered mine it came with all the hardware to install it

 

Installed mine last night . . . Pictures to follow later. I have a small gap on both my passenger and driver side. After reading all of the other posts about the OEM roof rack I figure this is normal. Any thoughts?

 

Not everyone has torque sensitive hands, and it would be very easy to over tighten & break a bolt or chew threw the plastic, or under tighten and have your rack get lifted off your cab with all your gear. You also want to make sure you tighten to specs to allow the mastic washers to seal the bolt holes water tight to prevent leaks.

Read the instructions provided by toyota and follow the torque specs.

<sarcasm>
OP, I quoted the above post for future reference in case your rack flies off, or your break a bolt, or your cab leaks.

Matts11 sounds like a certified mechanic, and you should ask him if he is willing to back any advice he gives about installing the roof rack with his very own wallet.
</sarcasm>

 

The brackets that you install forward of the cab can be bent a little bit to decrease or eliminate that gap. Its to late now unless you order some new mastic washers and remove the rack, bend the bracket where the yellow locking click goes in a little bit forward, then install the rest of the racks.

I found it while searching a thread about the same issue. It bugged me enough to fix one side.

 

I would leave it alone. It will not cause leaks or any wind noise. The fix above rarely works in my experience. The reason why is because the rack "bottoms out" on the bracket when trying to pound the yellow clip into the hole. If you bend it down it will just bottom out and the clip will go in less. There is almost no way to get any leverage on the bracket to hold it place while trying to pound the clip in. You can stick a thin plastic trim tool under the rack and try to do it but I never had much luck with it. The bracket you want to bend is the back part of that bracket. I would not stress about any leaking if you remove the rack. Just get rid of the gunk left by the mastic washers and use butyl tape around the holes. The butyl will compress when you tighten the rack down and do the same job as the mastic washers. I am not sure you can even get the washers outside of a new rack. You can order a roll of butyl tape off of Amazon. Anyhow, below are pictures of the rack on my truck, you can see there is a slight gap on both sides in the front. If you want to mess with yours, just loosen the back bolts, remove the front two, and try moving the rack with an awl to see if you can get the front more snug.