Building first home

Ok, yea, that's what I thought.

 

I should amend that original post. That plan is the layout. Will be changed to account for thicker walls (12 inch if icf, or at very least 2x6 if wood framed).

Water is definitely a concern up here. I live an hour and a half from the place with the least sunshine in the world. Clouds and rainfall are inevitable.

 

In favor of OSB:

• OSB can be manufactured into panels that are larger than plywood.
• OSB is more uniform, so there are fewer soft spots, such as those that can occur in plywood.
• OSB is less expensive than plywood. To build a typical 2,400-square foot home, OSB may cost $700 less than plywood.
• OSB is considered by many to be a “green” building material because it can be made from smaller-diameter trees, such as poplars, that are often farmed. Plywood production, by contrast, requires larger-diameter trees from old-growth forests.
• Plywood has a tendency to delaminate, especially in hot climates such as Florida

In favor of plywood:

• While plywood and OSB both off-gas formaldehyde, OSB off-gasses more of the carcinogenic gas. Plywood, OSB, and other engineered wood products that contain glue can be stored outdoors for several weeks before construction so that much of the dangerous gasses are vented safely into the outdoors.
• OSB weighs more than plywood. One 23/32-inch 4x8-foot plywood piece weighs approximately 67 pounds, while a piece of OSB of the same dimensions weighs approximately 78 pounds. The increased weight of OSB means that it is harder to install and it will put more stress on the house.
• Compared to plywood, OSB swells more when it comes into contact with water, especially at panel edges. Swell is generally greater in OSB than in plywood due to the release of compaction stress in OSB created during the pressing of wood chips into panels. Swollen plywood will return to its nominal thickness as the wood dries, while OSB will remain permanently swollen, to some degree. Swelling is a nuisance because it can uplift whatever materials lie above, such as tile or carpet.
• Plywood floors are stiffer than OSB floors by a factor of approximately 10%. As a result, OSB floors are more likely to:
  • squeak due to floor movement;
  • cause hard floor surfaces to crack (such as tile); and
  • result in soft, spongy floors.

• Nails and screws are more likely to remain in place more firmly in plywood than in OSB.
• OSB retains water longer than plywood does, which makes decay more likely in OSB than in plywood. Of course, tree species plays a large role in this determination. OSB made from aspen or poplar is relatively susceptible to decay. In one of the biggest consumer class-action lawsuits ever, Louisiana-Pacific (LP), a building materials manufacturer, was forced to pay $375 million to 75,000 homeowners who complained of decaying OSB in their homes.

From OSB vs. Plywood - Int'l Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) http://www.nachi.org/osb-plywood.htm#ixzz1r7f3oQqI
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Interesting... Plywood it is.

A builder was telling me about some new osb siding trim? Supposedly it's good stuff. Face looks like full grain wood. But it's actually osb...

 

With the design that was graded by our licensed engineer no. Teacher loved this stuff for simple construction, engineered two winter olympic ski jumps, the building for the pool of the olumpics up in the BC area, and some other major buildings aroudn the nation on top of a few down here. I trust his judgement on it. And if I remember correctly they are nailed and glued. The calcs I did for the walls were for shear, point, and linear load.

 

Honestly, I would maybe use OSB as sheeting or under carpet for floors. I would never use OSB exterior. Other than Hardi or Azek I've never seen a manufactured product actually work, exterior, in our wet climate.

 

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I would never put a piece of OSB in my house (even if code) ... moisture and OSB do not mix. ...
.

 

Engineers are fantastic but sometimes the numbers aren't real world numbers.

 

Sure that's not PVC ?

 

Just to quickly go off topic here what did you end up doing for the glazing and the shear factor for that wall, design wise?

 

Point being , I doubt you could design a shear wall for 1/2" plywood , and simply substitute 1/2" OSB and have the same results .

The glue in your example is probably to resist nail pull through .

 

Woaw lets make sure we are on the same page here. This design was 6" wide SIP wall construction. thats 1/2 osb on both sides with 5" insulated panels in the interior of the OSB. And yes I would assume that yes the glue would be the aiding factor to the nail pull.

 

To get somewhat back on track OP , I would caution you to make sure you consider all costs before committing to ICF's to the roof line .

The labour to build them may be cheaper , but you have to compare the costs of the forms , concrete , reinforcing steel vs the lumber to frame .

Additionally , ICF walls increase the cost of running services inside and you may find you need to build interior walls to house these services .

At some point , if you end up building walls inside the ICF walls to run everything , you could have just built the exterior framed walls and skipped the ICF's above the foundation line .

 

I said a site built shear wall .

 

OP, what are you planning to do with the basement space?

 

Pretty sure it was osb. Was the dirt time he had used it. Just for trim around garage doors etc.

 

Hmm

Haven't heard of that , nor would I trust it .

 

Leave it unfinished initially. Just frame in two rooms and a mechanical room. Wired. And I'm changing to have a walkout under the deck.

 

Pour a heated slab .

I love my basement