2012 Pricing - What did you pay?

Actually, hate to say it, but you're wrong. I work for Toyota as a sales Rep at Stephen Wade Toyota in St. George, Utah. We absolutely get compensation for how many units we sale a month...we have bonus levels and get certain insensitives based off of how many new as well as used cars we sell. With that said, the last day of the month isn't necessarily the best or worst time to buy...it all depends on what kind of month the dealsership has had up to that point. If its been slow, chances are, you're going to get a better deal. If it hasn't, they're still going to sell you a car as long as you're reasonable in your expectations. It cracks me up how many complete BS numbers people are putting on here as to what kind of "deal" they got! LMAO get real, dealers don't have thousands and thousands of dollars mark up on these trucks.

 

I paid 32250 for my DC 4x4 Trd off road w/entune. They went and found it and delivered it to my door

 

Usually you can go with dealerships that are not family run and expect to pay a little less because they want to hit their large volume numbers, I feel like toyota will give them better prices when they are buy 1000s of trucks as oppose to a 100 from a family one. I bought mine from a network of dealers in the south called Penske, just the feel of them is that they like to hit volume. This was after I shopped all around Arkansas and Texas. Even better is going towards the end of the month, not necessarily the last day, but around that time, my total time from inquiry to purchase was a week and a half. I went in March and was told that they didn't sell any to college kids so I got a better APR because of their low volume.

 

I have a question for those dealers on this thread. I made a deal and put a deposit on my truck thrn deployed. Called my dealer to make sure they can hold it until I get back and the agreed. I found it listed in their inventory on the website for a lot more than we agreed to in our agreement contract. Why is it even listed for sale if I'm buying it? I called again today to ensure it's still all good and they said no worries, it's waiting for me. Can't complain I guess but I was concerned that it looks like they are still trying to sell it...but even the manager said it will be there when I get back no matter what. Oh yeah $32,490 DCLB 4X4 entune exaust tip all weather mats wheel and spare tire locks. Currently listed for slightly under $35,000.

 

If they ensure it's there waiting for you, I wouldn't worry about it. If they don't have it and sell it before you get there, then get your deposit back.

 

My TRD Sport, double cab, 6 speed, tow package came to $30,097 minus $500 for the cashback

 

If you are talking a couple hundred dollars, of course. However, tThere is absolutely no way a dealer would let a salesmen arbitrarily lower the price on a vehicle so he/ she can obtain a month end bonus. The price has to be approved by the manager or limits are set in advance. The dealer buys the stock and takes the profit or loss. A salesman would be fired on the spot if he lowered the price arbitrarily to placate a customer so he could get a bonus. The dealer would eat the loss, not the salesman. People assume a salesman has the authority to dish out any final sales price he/she wants to score a sale and get a bonus.

I aggre about some of the stories here. People saying they got a dealer to let them walk off with a loaded trd offroad dc for $26 k are either smoking crack or just woke up from a dream. If they did get that price they got raped on their trade in value and rolled by the finance officer with $3 k extended warranties and $900 advertising fees and jacked up interst.

 

I bought a 2012 Double Cab TRD shortbed TX Pro 4x4 in Super white without the Entune. It had every other option though (that I know of... A-Trac, rear camera, rear diff locker, bluetooth, Sirius/XM, steering wheel controls, fogs, etc. etc.) plus the factory side tube steps, which I'm not a huge fan of, but needed for my bad back and my kids to get in!

I noticed one thing.... they seemed more easy going on a different one they had that had the 3 vin than my 5 vin. I guess they get more demand locally for the 5 vin vehicles. Not sure there is a difference other than where they put the VIN on the thing (Mexico or San Antonio).

Anyway, I stickered at $35,800-ish I think (or something close to that plus or minus $50) and lots of people were wanting it, but I let them sell the 3 vin because I knew that another was coming in (more on that later). Didn't feel like haggling so called in to the internet dept. where I had bought previous Toyota vehicles (Carson City Toy) and asked what they'd sell one for (they will always sell to me at almost true cost because I'm a long time customer and fly in on Southwest for $159 or so to pick up a vehicle and drive it back to Utah) and they helped me find one in the pipeline and told me exactly when it would show up on the lot here in Utah, and then told me what price they'd sell me one for. I arranged that deal here in Utah with a local dealer/internet sales guy because then he had it presold before it ever got on the lot, so he was way easy to work with on it. Instead of going to Nevada I was able to get pretty much the same deal. I think the final price was right around $32,500 + TTL - $500 rebate. So my "price" was $32,000 even. Doc fee was $289, state licensing fee another $100 I think (anyway, broke down to $389 for all of the stupid fees to get the paperwork, plates, title, inspections, etc. etc. etc.), and then 6.02% sales tax. I felt like I did really well when comparing quotes I got from a lot of different places. I sold my FJ TT locally to a dude and put all of that cash down on my vehicle, so my loan is low and my payments are way less than my FJ. Try selling private party before trading in, unless they will really work on price AND give you great trade-in due to the desirability of your vehicle. Typically whatever you GET in trade-in you LOSE on sales price, but not vice-versa!

Nice to see a guy from Stephen Wade in St. George adding some info. I can tell him funny stories about his co-workers sometime. Ask away Hans if you're ever interested. Good stuff going on. It sounds like there is never a dull moment at that dealership.

 

^ that's what I did w/ my "trade-in", I worked w/ them on price first and got them about as low as I could, then they offered me a mediocre trade-in- I sold my old truck locally instead

 

2012 DoubleCab SB
V6 Automatic 4X4
TRD Off-Road Package
Tinted windows
ToyoGuard Elite

MSRP: $34,200

OTD: $32,250

 

I paid 30,000 even OTD. Including tax, title, and whatever else it is thats added. I purchased a 2012 4.0 liter, V6, access cab, SR5. I bought it at Toyota of Tampa Bay. I waited one month for it to come in. I had to read the number they gave me over and over again. Some made sense some didn't. Finally the truck came in and I took the bus to get there because that my only means of transportation before. I figured out 30,000 cash was a happy price for myself and the dealership. I walked in after putting 25,000 down and them asking for another 5, 900 I believe (MSRP was 29,415, but they threw in toyota care, bed rail mounts, and some floor mats making it 31,000 MSRP). I said I have 5,000 more in cash and thats my final price because anymore seemed to much. I am an economist and study many trends and came to the conclusion this should work. I spoke with the manager, told him my story, he saw my skateboard and knew I took the bus there. Handed me my keys, shook my hand, and on I was. The prices some claim to have, I believe is bull. Maybe I'm just one of those people that am unlucky, i hear about certain people getting these unbelievable prices. Personally, I know some people lie, some are crazy, and very very rare maybe someone knows someone and slip away with some insane deal. Applying this idea to the deal I got, there is no way Im upset. This is because it's very well possible there some B.S. going on about other peoples amazing deals. Any way tacoma's rule, and life goes on

 

This is the internet and one rule is no matter what you pay someone will pay less I am in agreement with you that the vast majority of the people who claim they paid the lowest are either generally liars or they are leaving something out of the "deal". The latest post that made me chuckle was the guy who bought a 2010 Tacoma with the factory super charger. He stated he paid couple of grand under book for the truck, without adding in the SC, and then the dealer gave him a couple of thousand over book for his trade.
Ya right, lol.

There is no way a dealer is going to sell a vehicle for less than what they paid for it after considering hold backs, incentives, rebates, etc. If you believe they do, I have a bridge in London to sell. Ironic that usually the people who claim they paid the least are the ones who are upside down in their loans, meaning they owe more than what their truck is worth.
These threads are very entertaining.

 

There are 3 issues that happen in price quoting:

1- They quote their "out the door price" without including taxes and fees. I quoted my sales price and then said plus $389 in fees and 6% in tax... the reason is to make a fair comparison due to reason #2 below.

2- Some states don't have sales tax. For example... in Oregon, you don't pay sales tax, so the out the door price from a purchaser in Oregon is going to be different than myself in Utah. I gave my purchase price from the dealer and then put the tax rate at the end for people to calculate because tax rates are different from even city to city. Right here within 50 miles of me there are about 20 different tax rates, so even people in Utah will be getting a different tax rate on top of the sales price. Therefore it is better to quote the dealer's price to you, and then people calculate what tax will be for them in their municipality to average out what a good price would be.

3- As you say.... some people are just liars. I have a family member that ALWAYS has a price quote on things he buys that we snicker about behind his back because he supposedly pays about 10% less than anybody else on earth on EVERYTHING, including price protected products like iPhones, iPads, and so on and so forth. He will even claim he bought the same pair of Nikes I did at Zappos (which sells everything for retail) and somehow he paid 25% less. When I call him on it, he will say "I think they were having a sale or I had a coupon code or something." 2 problems... Zappos doesn't ever use coupon codes, and their sales are on specific items of weird sizes about once every 5 years. So basically yeah, some people just lie.

Some dealerships will work with people to get them a really great price, but there is always a reason. Typically it boils down to the fact that the person really bought a used vehicle (this one was one I found out on a 'friend' who was quoting me what he paid for an FJ and we were going back and forth... it turns out his had 2,000 miles on it and the owner had traded it in and paid basically full sticker on a 4Runner and taken a huge hit on the FJ because they realized they didn't like it.... therefore the dealership was willing to work with him more on price as they had already screwed the previous purchaser 3 times... 1st on the original purchase of the FJ, 2nd on the trade-in price they gave on a month old FJ, and 3rd on the price of the 4Runner. The guy gets caught in the "truth stretching" and says, "Yeah, but it was new to me. I mean it was a month old. No different than you buying a demo vehicle as the mileage was non-existent and they'd only used it on the freeway. True... but it was still a USED truck.

You'll also have program vehicles that will come in that a dealer is more inclined to work on in price (they got a freebie for meeting a sales target), or there are situations where a dealership can't unload a vehicle. My example is getting my wife a Honda Pilot for about $4,000 less than they were going for here in Utah during the winter months. Why? 2 reasons. 1- It was the last of the 2008's and they wanted it off the lot due to the redesigned 2009's that were coming in. 2- They don't sell many 4 wheel drive vehicles there and this one was an AWD/4x4 whatever Honda wants to call it and the internet sales guy just flat out said it had sat on the lot for 6 months and the only reason they had it was that Honda made them take one of each different model when they placed their order so they ordered a grand total of one 4x4 and couldn't sell the thing to save their lives as nobody in Vegas wanted a 4x4 Pilot as they get no snow and the gas mileage is worse than the FWD, plus the FWD had the cylinder management which would shut down half the engine on the freeway for better mileage. Why buy what you don't need? Here the FWD Pilots sit on the lot forever and the dealers spend all of their time trying to trade them out to dealerships in Arizona and Nevada. So yeah... sometimes there are anomalies, but not on every 3rd or 4th vehicle sold. That would lead us back to reason #3. Some people just can't be forthcoming with what they paid.

If you do enough research and recognize that they are a business and will sell if they make a few bucks and prefer the painless approach (send out for quotes from 10 different dealers and say you'll buy from the cheapest) then it goes pretty smooth. That's what I do. The dealer makes what he needs to in order to spend his hour working with me on the paperwork, and I leave with a vehicle that works for me and paid a fair price for it and don't feel bad handing him the check.

It's a matter of making a deal you feel good about. Some can't feel good about any deal, so they come up with lower numbers than what they actually paid. More power to them I guess, but really they just throw off others who are looking for numbers to take with them into the dealer and are trying to get a fair deal.

 

It also helps to keep in mind that dealers actually make very little profit off of the actual sales price of a new vehicle. It's all the other things that go along with the sales price that come with the purchase where a good deal of profit is made.

Used car sales also make up a great percentage of dealer profit. They make much more off of used care sales than new.

Most people are fixated on the sticker price and the final sales price they got that they ignore everything else when evaluating how well they did in a deal.

Hidden fees, advertising fees, finance charges, interest, jacked up interest, getting low-balled on trade-in value, even delivery charges. These are all areas where customers typically get popped and rarely pay much attention to. They score what they think is a good sales price and breath a sigh of relief. Afetr the handshake is where the profit begins for the dealer. They know most customers only are concerned with the sales price they get and they are therefore easy prey after that.

You should always know your credit score before going and check current interest rates. You should also know what kind of finance charge you should expect. This is an area where dealers really make out and people pay no attention. Also, extended warranties are also where dealers get the upper hand.

The fact is, dealers have 101 ways to make money off the deal but make you think you got the upper hand. The good salesemn are the ones who can do this successfuly. The other ones don't stick around long in the business.

A dealer WILL make a profit off of us in one way or another even if they have to lower the sales price to snag you. They will just make up for it somewhere else. This is how dealers stay in business and it is unrealistic to expect a dealer will not or should not come out ahead. It's a business, not a charity. Nobody walks out of a dealer with the upper hand. Nobody. They won't do the deal. Dealerships are not naive or stupid. They have been doing this for a long time. People may think they are 'savvy' when it comes to getting the upper hand. This only means the dealership did its job well.

 

When some of you younger folks age a little you will begin to understand it isn't always the lowest price that is the best deal.

I'll gladly pay a little more to be treated with respect and not have my chain jerked around. Sometimes the best deal is not about money at all.

 

Mostly true.... but when you have the benefit of negotiating "out the door" pricing in advance of walking into the dealership and are paying in cash, then you really do have the upperhand. I walk into the dealership with a cashier's check. If the price changes because he wants to add this, that, or the other (extended warranties, etc.) then I leave. I tell them I had the check made up at the bank and it can't be changed.

I've walked out of dealerships when they've attempted to get me to bring my check back to my bank and finance with them at 0.0% (which is better than the 1.9% my credit union offers), because they were just adamant that it was a better deal for ME. The fact is that they wanted to start from scratch and rework the whole deal. Sure the interest rate is lower, but it also gives them a chance to change things like you've said, and then come up with a new final price and such. I've just said flat out "Nope, either I buy it with my check, or I leave and have the credit union make me a check for elsewhere."

When you are holding a check and have the papers in advance and have gone over every particular thing before stepping into the dealership you can be pretty sure you're doing ok. Ultimately I won't maybe get the deal some guys claim to get here, but I'm close to real invoice (or right at invoice) and the dealership spent no more than an hour total dealing with me to get their bonus for moving a car off the lot. Even if they sell them at their cost all day they'll still get their factory kickback.

Your best bet is to deal with a dealership who has their advertising 100% paid for by Toyota. They can work with you way way more on price because they don't have an advertising budget. It requires a certain amount of sales and a 5 star rating. I know that Carson City Toyota has no advertising costs and move an incredible amount of vehicles. So they are way flexible on price. The day I went in to pick up my last FJ from them was a Sunday afternoon and in the hour and a half I was there shooting the breeze with the guy while they prepped my vehicle, finished up the paperwork, got the transfer permits from Nevada to Utah, registered my vehicle with Toyota for the free service (it was brand new at that point and was a pain to get it all set up), and we ate lunch (on them!) and put it in the "checklist room" (where you check over everything, they show you features, and you drive out) I saw 12 vehicles leave that were purchased in that hour and a half. Literally.

Last time I talked to them was on January 2nd and the friend I have at the dealership said they had a short day on New Year's Eve due to the holiday and were open from like 12-6 and sold 24 new vehicles. The internet department sold 16 of them.

It is amazing how many cars are moving through those places that have the internet department and focus on volume rather than tacking on add-ons to make a buck here or there. They just want to make sales, and Toyota rewards them with free advertising and they have an easy time getting a special order in from Toyota as they will reroute stuff in the pipeline for them in order to get it sold as their sales volume is so massive.

The point.... things are changing. People really are coming out better than they used to.

Do the following:

1- Don't finance at the dealer. Sorry.... it's just not a good idea because then you are locked to them. I'd rather get a 2-4% 5 year rate at a local credit union than a 0% for 36 months at a dealership. Why? Because if I pay my car off in 36 months the interest I pay is going to be miniscule anyway because I paid it off quick and jumped a bunch into the principal from day 1. I've done this each time I've bought a car and have so much equity in it when I sell it after 2-3 years that I usually roll 100% of that back into my new car and am now at the point where I am almost paying cash for a new car each time I get one and my total cost of running the vehicle for 2-3 years is basically negligible in the grand scheme of things. Way way better than leasing. It is my OWN leasing program and it works wonderfully. Only I see the benefit. Not Toyota financial.

2- Get quotes from multiple dealers.

3- When you find one you like make them deal directly with your credit union and send a purchase agreement listing everything on a line by line contract. If anything isn't what you wanted or doesn't look right call them and tell them to verify it. If it's incorrect or they attempted to sneak something in (like VIN etching or an extended warranty you didn't want) then cancel the deal then and there. I've given them the benefit of the doubt, blamed it on the finance guy and said they had 15 minutes to send a corrected form to my credit union and then I was leaving and not picking up the check and doing business elsewhere. One dealership didn't do it... lost my business. One tried to do it wrong, and got caught. He got it fixed in a hurry.

4- If anything and I mean ANYTHING is different the day you walk in to pick up for your vehicle you show them your check for the vehicle and say the numbers have to match exactly and compare to the form you got a copy of at your credit union when you went to pick up your check (you did get a copy right?). Make sure you have a ride so you can leave. They have you over a barrel if somebody dropped you off!

5- Assure that the VIN's match on the form they sent to the CU and the one you're handing them a check for. Believe me... this happens. Sketchy sketchy sketchy.

6- Don't let them "balance the numbers" if something is different by saying "well, we'll just reduce the purchase price here and go ahead and get you that undercoating here...". Your credit union won't be happy if contract terms changed and they find out. I mean if you really want to try something like that.. go ahead. But I go with the contract we agreed on and that's the end of the story.

7- Never and I mean never let a dealership tell you that you need to come in and talk to them before they can give price quotes. If that's the case... then you don't want to deal with that dealer. They are the ones who will scam you for all you're worth. They are also the ones who INSIST on talking on the phone rather than using email, because they want no written record of what they said so you can't hold them to it.

I could go on and on. But in this day and age you have more power than you think. Old school dealers want to get you in, create a false sense of urgency, figure out what you can spend a month, and work backwards. Refuse to play that game. You are in control. You can negotiate from home and just show up to pick up a car. If you want to test drive first, then go somewhere and be very clear that you aren't buying... just test driving and if they insist on getting personal information then say you'll go elsewhere (I've done it.... they typically cave). They may claim they need it for "insurance reasons" but if they are coming on the test drive with you anyway, then it won't matter. I tell them I won't give them a copy of my driver's license, but they are welcome to come along for the ride. And if they won't let me test drive then I say, "Ok, you won't be getting my business for sure. I'm just going to get price quotes, and I'll give you first crack for the test drive, but if not.. then forget it. I'll test drive at "lot B". It's always good for a laugh.

Out of common courtesy.... please don't ever use a private seller's vehicle as a test drive model to decide if you want to buy from a dealer or to buy new. They typically take time out of their schedules, use their asset, and get their hopes up that they are selling a vehicle only to have you flake out and buy from a dealer because it is "easier" (which is not true anyway). I've been on the wrong end of that one too many times and it is disrespectful. Car dealerships are there to sell cars for their company and their dealership. They are supposed to show you vehicles and build customer bases. Don't leave that on somebody who is trying to get out of a lease and just wasted their lunch break helping you out to no benefit for them.

 

Still young and definitely agree......

 

Well the dealership was denied an allocation for the truck I wanted twice, so I went in tonight and got my second choice which is a 2012 double cab, 4x4, auto, TRD sport, super white, tow pkg, entune, etc. Base price: $28,230. Installed options: $6,469. Total: $34,699 plus $349 document fee. I got it for $31,000 OTD. I'm very happy with the price and service I received.

 

The $31k included sales tax and tag fees? If so, you paid about $29k or less without TTL, and thats a great deal.
Like I posted last week, I paid $27,481 (plus TTL) for mine WITHOUT 4x4 or entune.
Dont need 4x4 for my purposes and where I Iive, and didnt want the extra expenses up front and over the life of the truck for the 4x4, nor did I think entune was worth it, but good luck with yours. But if I could have gotten a truck with those options for only about $1500 more than I paid I might have done it.

 

That did not include sales tax or tag fees. Oklahoma charges a 3.25% sales tax and the tag fee for military is $15. The window sticker was $34,699. I think $31,000 OTD was reasonable. The Entune is a very nice setup and sounds awesome.