help!! this is driving me really insane!

my truck has a nasty squeek when im accelerating! it does not happen in reverse at all...i thought it was the leafs but i drenched those in lube and its still there! the skueek gets louder up untill 30 mph and it squeeks very fast to

 

I vote U Joints.

 

sounds like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1r1xzF6ZJT4

how much is this gonna cost?

 

loose belt?

 

Guess that would depend on how handy you are with tools.

 

is there a way i can lubricate the u joint? im pretty handy with tools but have never done these

 

A new u-joint is 10 to 20 bucks.
It's pretty easy to change if you have access to a press, otherwise you'll have to beat it out.

 

fuck !

 

damn i dont have a press

 

2gen PreRunners do not have greasable u-joints, so you're outta luck there. Gonna have to have it/them replaced.

If you can do it yourself, u-joints are $20 to $40 each for the part. Easier to remove/replace if you have a press, but can also be accomplished with hammer and drift.

If you replace, see if you can replace with a greasable model. This will help you prolong their life considerably.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...yota&model=Tacoma&vi=1434685&keyword=u+joints

how are those? how do i find out if its the wich u joint it is?

 

Gee, Matt, Got a funny U-Joint story you want to share with the rest of us?

 

Got a vise? A few well placed sockets and you have a make shift press.

 

how can i find out wich u joint it is? theres only 3 right?

 

can this be covered with the 60k powertrain warranty

 

To figure out which u-joint it is crawl under your truck and wiggle the driveshaft at each u-joint if it's bad you will feel the slop in it if it's good you'll be shacking the truck instead.

 

Idk if it's covered under the power train warranty. That expired 90000 miles ago for me. Best way to find out is to call your dealer.

 

they alway say " pay 100 and find out, if its covered we give you the 100 back" they will most likely just blame it on the lift and stuff.... thanks for the help guys

 

I did hundreds over the years with just a vise. After you squeeze the caps together and install the clips, you just give the yoke a couple smacks with the hammer (lightly) on one side with the other resting on the vise. to let the "press" equalize. Don't hammer the caps as they will break. If they rotate smoothly after without binding, your good to go. good luck.

 

i vote a ujoint as well..

you can check it yourself using (2) 14mm wrenches...i would start with the rear first

remove the ujoint at thr rear just as Jasmine suggested. while it's off move the ujoint and yoke around in all directions. it should move with zero play and it should feel smooth like butter. if that end checks out ok then remove the shaft at the transmission side and do the same as the rear checking for play.

if you do have a bad you joint i would recommmend taking it you your local driveline shop to replace the bad ujoint. and just as Janster recommended, get a greasable ujoint