synthetic engine oil

The previous posters comments about the filter being the factor when to change oil is correct. Filters have a mileage rating on them. Unless you are putting a high mileage filter on, then you shouldn't try to extend your time between oil changes based on the oil mileage rating.

I have never tried the changing oil filter, while leaving the synthetic oil in as one poster stated, as having the filter on the bottom side of previous vehicle it was not possible. Always ran synthetic after vehicle was off warranty in new vehicles.

Dealer gave me free oil changes, but only does them every 8000km, up to 160000km or 7 years. He also stated that if i wanted to have synthetic 5w30 put in i could bring it in and they would use, no charge for filter or labour-i might take them up on this if true.

 

Just bought my 2012 Tacoma I4 AT and was reading up on the oil specs on another page. Any info on mixing Mobil 1 0w-20 (called for in owner's manual) with Toyota Synthetic, which was apparently the original fill? Sure hate to think I'm required to use the Toyota 0w-20 to ensure I don't void the warranty!

Any guidance / suggestions would be appreciated.

 

No problems doing that at all. As long as it is changed at the correct interval with the correct weight/viscosity oil Toyota can't say anything

BTW- Welcome from the Hill Country

 

Correct, as long as the API seal matches.

 

I go with the owner's manual, whether it's 5k or 7500.

Synthetic CAN last longer (the additive package will need to be refreshed around 10k), but extended drain intervals are contingent upon:

1 - Bypass filtration installed
2 - Filter changes every 5-10k (the quart added to replenish what is lost in the filter replenishes the additive package)
3 - Used oil analysis to catch any potential issues and determine when a change is needed.

Generally, this is impractical on most passenger vehicles where you're running 4 to 6 quarts of oil. It's just not cost effective. Getting into Diesels that are running 10-20 quarts, or OTR trucks... ya... it's a big money saver when you can push the change intervals to 30-60k+ and only spend $25 every 10k for analysis.

But when it costs me $40 for synthetic oil and a filter, it's not worth spending the extra money on attempting to push the intervals.



The main benefit of synthetic is not in extended drain intervals, it is in resistance to sludging under high temperatures, and better cold-flow performance on startup.

 

That's kinda like saying any brand of truck is fine.

 

Please cite your source--

 

Not really... these days you'd be hard pressed to find an oil on the shelf of a reputable auto parts store that wouldn't do the job. Obviously, some oils are better than others but if you change your oil regularly and not beating the shit out of your truck, Whipper is correct.

 

Yea, I'd say it's obvious too, that's why I made my earlier post.

 

really?

Tacoma World Posts: 28,757

 

Quick question... I have a 2012 and it is nearing its first service. I was curious - Did it come from Toyota with synthetic oil? Seems like I keep hearing different things.

 

If you have a 2.7 litre , 4 cylinder motor, then you have 0w 20 motor oil and it is synthetic. To get a 0 weight on the oil, it must be a synthetic base.
If you own a 4.0 litre , a 6 cylinder motor, then you have 5W 30 motor oil and it is NOT synthetic. You can add synthetic if you want, but on the 6 cylinder motor the oil is normal dino oil from the factory.

Synthetic oil does not prevent engine break-in. The tolerances on the engines are so strict that a breaking in of the motor is not required. The only break-in on the motor is for the seating of the piston rings and that is for only the first 500 miles. After that there is no break-in conditions on either new motor.

 

Thank you

 

I'd like to see that as well.
My experience with Amsoil in my motorcycle is that it compares favorably with Mobil-1. No increase in viscosity... comparable decrease with Amsoil just edging out Mobil-1 (barely) with Mobil-1 20w50 just barely dropping to a 40wt and Amsoil 20w50 just barely remaining in-grade.

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls

By comparison, Royal Purple did no better than Castrol GTX.

 

I am curious if anyone has any experience with Schaeffer's oil? My family has used it for years on the farm trucks and I think I'm going to give them a go on my next oil change. I am coming up on 5,000 miles on Mobil 1 Full Syn High Mileage while getting low 19- low 20 mpg. I am curious to see if Schaeffer's will cause a slight increase in mpg.

Our mechanic that works on 80% of our farm tractors has commented on how well schaeffers performs compared to other tractors he has seen. When he rebuilt one of our motors {(blew due to driver error),(driver did not brake when going downhill towing a heavy load and severely over revved it)} ...anywhos, when he was rebuilding the motor he said that all the parts were just too damn clean and slippery. It was kind of funny hearing a mechanic complain about being unable to hold onto pistons etc.

I have been a long Mobile 1 fan, no complaints, but like any Tacoma lover, we're always looking for something better. I know the oil debate is always heated so we shall see how it performs in the next 5,000 miles.

 

Oil weight has more of an impact on MPG than the manufacturer.
Synthetic allows you to drop to the lighter weights like 0w20 and still be adequately protected, and that might carry a small MPG improvement, but I personally am not comfortable dropping to a 20wt oil. You aren't going to see any difference between Mobil-1 and Schaeffer's 5w30. Both are very good products, let price and availability be your guide.
Like Amsoil, if someone in your family has a reliable and affordable source for it, then there's no reason not to. I ran Amsoil in my vehicles and my bike when I was a "Preferred Customer" and could get it for a price comparable to Mobil-1, but the only thing that made it worth paying for the "Preferred Customer" status was because I was putting over 3k on my Duramax every month, so I was changing 10qts every 2-3 months plus 5 quarts in the bike every few months.

 

I have yet to hear how comparable the price will be. Since we have dealt with them on the farm for some years now, I hope they are somewhat similar to Mobil one.

I believe we were going to start running Schaeffers in our farm pickups (Chevy's ) So perhaps a semi-bulk buy will bring the purchase down as well.

 

I purchased a used 2008 2.7 that required full synetic oil and I didn't know because there was no owners manuel with it. I use the normal 5w/30 oil. I asked at the dealer and they said there was no problem and said you might get a little less gas mileage when using regular oil. I used the 5w/30 for two years and I got a little better mileage, go figure.

 

2008 2.7 does not require synthetic oil.