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Bike mount utilizing Tacoma bed rail system - my version

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by STLTaco09, Mar 26, 2009.

  1. Mar 26, 2009 at 6:44 AM
    #1
    STLTaco09

    STLTaco09 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, fronts at 1.75". TSB leaf pack + Toytec TSB AAL
    I answered someones post on Toyota Nation about a bike mount system, so I thought I'd post it here too. There are plenty of options available. I like what I've come up with because it was cheap, VERY secure, and doubles as tie down points for the front of the bed. Here is what I did:


    I bought 2 of these:

    http://www.theproscloset.com/Shop/Co...id/0/SFV/32625

    Total was around $21. Then I went to Lowes, got 2 large washers to fit inside the bed rail system ( I brought in a bed cleat with me to use to size the correct washer), bought 1.5" long bolts (I think they were 1.5" long, might have been 2", but with a 1/4" diameter thread. They fit PERFECTLY through the hole in the rocky mounts bike mount), a couple of lock washers, and fashioned my own mount system. I think I spent around $32 on all hardware required (for 2 mounts).

    Instead of putting the bolt through the washer and having the bolt stick out towards you from the rail, then securing the bike mount with a nut - I did something else. I used JB Weld to secure one of the nuts that fits my bolt to one of the large washers that fits the rail. I used one of the bolts to align the hole in the washer with the nut to make it easier - just have to be careful not to JB Weld the nut/washer to the bolt itself. I did two of these per mount.

    When the JB Weld was dry, I slid the washer/nut assembly into the bed rail with the nut on the inside of the rail (so you can't see the nut itself). Then take the bolt, put it through hole in the bike mount, then screw it into the nut/washer assembly you just made. Do that again for the 2nd hole in the mount. I used a lock washer between the head of the bolt and the bike mount itself. I also had to trim probably a little less than a 1/4" off of my bolt, otherwise it would hit the back of the bed rail before it was tight.

    To do this I threaded a nut onto the bolt, trimmed off with a dremel what I didn't want of the bolt, then took the nut off. The nut will reshape the threads that got mangled by the dremel. If you dont do it this way, you might not be able to thread a nut on the bolt at all after you trim the excess threads from the bolt.

    The JB Weld securing the nut/washer together is only to keep the two together. By putting the nut/washer assembly into the rail so that the bolt has to go through the washer before it threads into the nut, the JB Weld is providing no assistance in securing the load down. On the other hand, if you were to put the nut/washer assembly into the rail with the nut facing you, then you would be depending on the JB Weld to hold the nut to the washer, and therefore keeping the entire load secure... Not the optimal situation in my opinion.

    So far I only hauled one bike about 15 miles with this setup. It was secure as can be though. I just used a bungee to secure the back tire. Another that is nice is that these mounts can double as tie down points. I take out the clutch part of the mount and store them under my seat when not in use. The mount itself stays mounted on the rail. You can attach bungees or tie downs to them to secure other things - just remember to stay within the safe load limits of the bed rail system itself.

    Sorry no pics, but I suppose I could snap a few if they'd be of any help.
     
  2. Mar 26, 2009 at 6:46 AM
    #2
    01GREENTACO

    01GREENTACO Not all who wander are lost

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    Lost track many, many mods ago.
    Thanks for the great thread. A few pictures would be nice but no biggie if you don't get em.
     
  3. Mar 26, 2009 at 7:41 AM
    #3
    stormyday

    stormyday Well-Known Member

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    pics would be great... they might help me with another thing I am working on.
     
  4. Mar 26, 2009 at 7:57 AM
    #4
    headhunter247

    headhunter247 Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 888 and Dakars. ProComp Series 05. Cooper SST Maxx 275s.
    Do you do any mountain biking? If so wheres your favorite around here?
     
  5. Mar 26, 2009 at 8:03 AM
    #5
    STLTaco09

    STLTaco09 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, fronts at 1.75". TSB leaf pack + Toytec TSB AAL
    I haven't done much in St. Louis yet. Castlewood Park is good though, along with Klondike.
     
  6. Mar 26, 2009 at 8:11 AM
    #6
    headhunter247

    headhunter247 Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 888 and Dakars. ProComp Series 05. Cooper SST Maxx 275s.
    If you look at www.gorctrails.com/ it tells you about the ones around here. Ive been to a few, was just seeing your thoughts.
     
  7. Mar 26, 2009 at 8:55 AM
    #7
    Fluffymonkey

    Fluffymonkey Token

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    Pics! I just ordered one of those damn 50 dollar ones from toyota a few days ago :( I wish i'd seen this before!
     
  8. Mar 26, 2009 at 9:29 AM
    #8
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    Note that it's best to use a tap and die set for these purposes. Just a helpful hint :)

    I've done simillar, and a big thing to watch for is how tight you bolt things down - it's not hard to bend the rail if you start reaping on things.
     
  9. Mar 26, 2009 at 9:42 AM
    #9
    STLTaco09

    STLTaco09 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, fronts at 1.75". TSB leaf pack + Toytec TSB AAL
    I wasn't going to bother getting a tap and die set when this would work just fine. I've done it before, and I've never had an issue!

    I agree with tightening them down too tight. You've definitely got to be careful.
     
  10. Mar 26, 2009 at 1:04 PM
    #10
    headhunter247

    headhunter247 Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 888 and Dakars. ProComp Series 05. Cooper SST Maxx 275s.
    Not to rub it in, but I got 2 Toyota ones off of ebay for $30 shipped.
     
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  11. Mar 26, 2009 at 1:08 PM
    #11
    Fluffymonkey

    Fluffymonkey Token

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    2003: Stock 2007: Avid Offroad sliders, 30% front tint, bed mat, Truxedo low-pro qt tonneu cover, aero turbine 2525 muffler w/ 8'' tip, AR25 Resonator, 16x8 Dick Cepek DC-1 w/ 265/75 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, 2010 headlights, ome 884 coils with .5'' top plate spacer, OME sport front shocks, bilsten 5100s rear, 2'' aal, locking gas cap, LR ucas, Viper 2-way remote start, afe drop in filter, Rocky locking bike mounts, gear chest, scangauge, pop n lock tailgate lock 2013: most things transferred over from my 07, 5100s @ .85 + eibachs and Toytec tps for 3'' front lift, wheelers progressive aal w/ overload; compustar 2-way remote start; Antennex shorty antenna, pop n lock tailgate lock with programmable key, seat covers, Toyota's crappy all-weather floor mats (should have got Husky's or Weathertechs), TRD skid plate, led light pods mounted in front bumper valence w/ Eyourlife wireless harness and remote, led bed lights, light pods mounted in bed, Devil Horns emblem from Diaz Fabrications, rear facing pod lights in bed, under seat lights,
    Well that's depressing. I really need to get better about researching stuff more before I buy :(
     
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  12. Mar 26, 2009 at 1:10 PM
    #12
    headhunter247

    headhunter247 Well-Known Member

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    try and take them back maybe?
     
  13. Mar 26, 2009 at 1:26 PM
    #13
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    Not to mention, you lose the use of one of the tie downs for each bike mount. I'd take the oem one back and make my own :D and you still have use of all stock tie downs
     
  14. Mar 26, 2009 at 1:31 PM
    #14
    STLTaco09

    STLTaco09 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, fronts at 1.75". TSB leaf pack + Toytec TSB AAL
    Plus 2 more tie down locations in the front of the bed, depending on the mounts you get. Mine can easily be used to strap a bungee to.
     
  15. Mar 26, 2009 at 1:56 PM
    #15
    tacoholic

    tacoholic Well-Known Member

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    Subbin'...can't read it right now. :p
     
  16. Mar 26, 2009 at 2:46 PM
    #16
    headhunter247

    headhunter247 Well-Known Member

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    I dont think that you totally lose the tie down points. Ive used mine with the bike racks on them several times.
     
  17. Mar 31, 2009 at 7:06 AM
    #17
    STLTaco09

    STLTaco09 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, fronts at 1.75". TSB leaf pack + Toytec TSB AAL
    So I went to adjust my mounts last night, trying to move them as close to the the outside of the bed as possible therefore maximizing the storage space between the bikes. I loosened the mounts, slid them over, tightened them a bit. Mounted the bike to finish tightening them and to make sure they were tight enough. While finishing tightening the bolts, the washers securing the mounts to the bed began to bend.

    The washers are obviously not strong enough. I ordered a rail mounting kit meant to mount the Rocky Mounts to Toyota bed rails. Those should be a bit stronger.

    I just wanted to give everyone a heads up that this solution isn't strong enough. At least the washers bent instead of the bed rails!
     
  18. Mar 31, 2009 at 10:37 AM
    #18
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    Huh I will have to show pics of what I have. My washers hold just fine.
     
  19. Jun 7, 2010 at 9:02 PM
    #19
    SurfInferno

    SurfInferno Dont be stupid, its not smart.

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    hate to beat the dead horse but are there any pics of these mounts? its been a year, how have they held up? and that link is dead.
     
  20. Jun 7, 2010 at 11:27 PM
    #20
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    Eh, it's been over a year, I guess I should finally post those pics, lol.


    bikemount_d93f5bb0e5191659989dd1a4870de739ed53207e.jpg

    This has been on my truck for probably 2 years now. No rust, just some discoloration of the paint - might spray it with rustoleum at some point.

    Bike mounts are made by XPORT and were $8 from Performance Bicycle (price has gone up a bit since then). it looks like the design might have changed, mine have vertical slits for bolts to go through, the stock photo looks like they switched to a single drilled hole.


    Not sure the exact size on the bolts, I think they are 3/8" or so. i ended up drilling out the holes on the bike mount so they would be wider, because the panhead bolts needed to be of a sufficient size so the washers would fit in the rails without falling out. To do that, I used a countersink bit from a cheap drill bit set and went to town.



    Since installing that first set, I found a better mount using 1 1/3" carriage bolts, a special square washer, cut washer, lock washer, and nut:

    IMG_2150_de5c70972ddac58fa1a74118c81caf482628b803.jpg IMG_2151_3664a1390a849611c17613b4a9f0f6682acdfa18.jpg

    However, that square washer isn't sold in stores, it's specially made for hanging electrical wire to telephone poles. I did a massive search (I thought a unistrut bolt would do the trick, but those don't come in the right size), so if you find anything in an over the counter solution, please post up.
     

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