Will I "need" UCAs?

I am going to get OME coils for my 5100s and i was going to set the 5100s at the .85" mark and the rolling stock will be konig countersteer offroads in 16" wrapped with 285/75/16 duratracs... so that is my question, will i need UCAs?

i'm sure ill need a bit of trimming of the wheel wells but I'm not worried about that.

thanks ahead of time.

 

No. Is it highly recommended? Yes.

 

"Need" is always such a tricky word.

 

got it.

mhmmm sure it!


I guess I should add... are the needed for alignment purposes with the amount of lift I will be getting with that setup? or because that size tire will not fit with those wheels and oem ucas?

 

The UCAs allow the alignment to be set with correct "Caster" which affects how the truck feels when you drive it, but not tire wear.

You'll actually have more tire clearance at the rear fender well without them.

285/75R16 won't rub on the UCA assuming you go to an aftermarket rim that has more "negative offset" than factory - which your Konig Countersteers (I assume) do.

 

Nooo-o-o-o...Aftermarket UCAs add caster, and increasing caster moves the tire forward in the fender well...he'll have more fitment issues up *front*.

Easy solution for that - just get the bumper out of the way of the tires:

 

They do.

 

Also don't preload the OME coils. Keep those billys at 0.

 

Ok how much lift would that be? I have stock wheels and tires on with Billys at 1.75" I want to be able to fit 33s

 

I am going with a yes on replacing the UCA. I have my billies set at .85 with the Eibach springs. The alignment was done and the truck drives straight on a flat road but add a little crown the road it starts to wonder and the outer edge of my front tires are getting torn up.2

 

and you dont have ucas?

 

Those items happen with any lifted taco on upsized tires. You're going to be more sensitive to road crown, and the wider tires will scrub at the edges a little more.

You're mucking with factory engineering. Things aren't going to work perfectly anymore. You're trading a little bit of that on-road reliability and performance for MUCH more offroad capability (or, in a lot of people's cases, just looks).

 

THIS\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

 

this guy has never even taken his truck off the pavement!! He knows nothing of wheeling I heard one time, at band camp, he was afraid of driving in the grass because he would get stuck!!! Only mall curbs for this one

 

I am willing to buy whatever I will need to have a good around 3" lift to perform better then stock off road, without doing king, fox,blah blah blah coil overs yet... but I also put 12k miles on my truck in 4 months so I'd like the tire wear to be decent.

also... going a few posts back, the fellow says to leave the 5100s at "0" when running the OME coils, is that going to be enough to clear 33s?

 

ok so UCAs will be on the order list for sure. now..... which ones? and uni-ball or ball joint?

 

No I still have the stock UCAs for now. I think I am going to go with the LR real soon.

 

Most defenately uni-ball. There are a few of them out there that are tried and tested, and a few that are newer and so far have good marks. You have to create a budget and see which ones you like the best. Total Chaos, Camburg, Built-Right are a few popular ones. The Down South Motorsports ones are pretty beefy and look nice, as I have seen a couple and installed them on trucks here. Have not seen them perform off road yet though Icon has a new tubular set as well. They look pretty stout as well, still haven't heard remarks of them being off road. IMHO, $$ is most peoples motivator on which brand to go with.

 

Don't hate on band camp!

You get extra tire scrubbing at the edges because the truck sits higher, thus leans more in turns. This moves the center of gravity further, and causes additional sidewall flex, which presses more of the outside of the tire down to the pavement on the tires on the outside of the turn, and more of the inside of the tire down to the pavement on the tires inside of the turn.

Also, you now have 33s. There is more sidewall there than you used to have, so you get more tire flex from that as well.

So there is no way to avoid it - physics demands you will have additional wear on tire shoulders. This doesn't happen with the stock tires and ride height because all the things I noted above are not present. The whole truck was engineered by Toyota for that tire size and ride height to avoid problems. Now you've gone and messed with it. The world won't end, but be prepared for some niggles you'll have to either troubleshoot yourself or live with. It's just the name of the game with vehicle modification.

You'll need to trim either way, the only question is how much.

If you leave the Bilsteins at 0, the only lift you will get is from spring rate. I'd say test fit that, and if it's not enough lift, take them back off the truck and adjust.

Uniball. They're stronger and offer more travel. The only downside is cost.

 

A lot of good information on this thread. I am still running my stock BFG and stock UCAs with the pull and the outer tire wear. I like the Uni ball but I am going with the LR with the ball joint I haven't heard many complaint and cost is some of the issue save some cash for other mods. I have a shopping list $$$.