Long Travel BS Thread

Damn, I feel like dual tire carriers for the weight are just a MUST need for a leaf sprung long travel..

 

Saw this on another site and it made me laugh.

]


Also this thread has really been lacking boobs lately

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suba...ars_Trucks&hash=item3a72e2ab22#ht_1070wt_1096

 

Is this true with long travel? Even if it is lifted since the control arms are longer... not sure...

Opinions?

 

well yeah lift will always effect your down travel and up travel.
lets say with lt you have 14 inches of travel, 7up and 7 down at stock height (just a guess). lift your front 3 inches and you have 10 inches of up travel and 4 of down travel. make sence?

 

yeah that makes sense.

Compared to stock though, it seems you can get a lift and still have more down and plenty more of up-travel compared to stock

 

when i was stock with a 3 inch lift and a bunch of weight in the bed (stock height rear) i felt like i had no down travel, every bump my front tires were coming off the ground. it was horrible


i need some help here. what angle are your guys shocks at when completely bolted up at ride height and full droop? since im doing a engine cage i want to make sure the shock angles stay the same.

 

just cycle it real good im thinking

 

This ^^

Eric thats all we did when we did my engine cage at the shop.

 

Get your shocks as close to perpendicular to the lower a-arm without going over at full bump. That's if the lower uniball in in the arm.

 

well i can still cycle it but the angle will effect which spring i need, so i want it as close to people with bolt on kits with the coil bucket.

how do you know the angle of the shock isnt to vertical or to much angle to it? know what i mean? or was it just an educated guess?

my lowers and upper is ball joints, does that make a difference?

 

No, Sit in front of your truck image a line from the center if the bushing pivot to the center of your ball joint pivot then try to get your shocks at a 90* angle to that line at bump Sorry I would through fancy terms at you but its monday so yeah..

 

it sure is monday and i partied from wednesday-sunday and im at work dieng.. so easy words are nice lol.

so since my lower ball joint is angles up a little the lower wont actually be straight just make sure the lower ball joint is right in the middle of its rotation? that seems easy enough....

 

Rotation of the ball joint doesn't matter. Just imagine the line through the actual pivot point of the ball joint.

I'll use my front end as reference. Sorry if it still doesn't make sense

 

okay makes 99% sence. do i put my lower arm at full bump? how do i know when to stop raising it?

 

Can you imagine these on LT Taco?

 

Just figure how high you want the truck off the ground at full bump and also try to use as much of your shock as possible.

 

Also, It doesn't HAVE to be at 90, it should be approaching or at 90 at bump, the main thing is that it doesn't go past 90 deg.
What this does is make the shock get stiffer is you bottom out. As your shock gets closer to 90 deg, the shaft speed gets faster per every inch it travels, causing it to get stiffer.

 

makes sence, thank you guys!