Lower Control Arm Seized?

Hey all,

I just installed my OME lift over the weekend and when I took the truck to my local shop to have it aligned they were unable to get the camber and caster into spec.

The tech worked on it for a good 3 hours and then contacted me to explain that the alignment bolt in the driver's side lower control arm was seized into the bushing and that they would have to cut it out and replace the lower control arm.

Even with the LR UCAs I put on, if they adjust those it will throw the toe out of whack and make the alignment worse. Currently I'm off by a full degree on camber and they said I've got about two weeks before my tires are wearing. A new LCA from Toyota is ~1800 which is difficult to swallow.

I contacted Toyota and am taking it in tomorrow to have it looked at. I explained to them the lift and that I made NO modifications to the LCA so maybe I can swing this under warranty.

Has anyone run into this before? From my searching I can't seem to find any other experiences like this. Thanks!

 

I believe a few other members have run into this problem along with myself. When installing my fabtech kit, one of my lca bushing was seized. Ended up cutting it out. After the LCA was off the truck, tried using a shop press to press it out...no dice. Ended up having to burn the bushing out with an acetylene torch. New bushing and what not was around $100 from the dealership. The problem with these bushing is that they do not have zerks for greasing.

 

Damn, that blows! Is there anything that can be done to avoid this??

 

Well, I've got an appointment with the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully they will work with me on covering it under warranty considering the lift would not have caused this problem, it just revealed it. Maybe that explains why there has been a squeaking from the front driver's side for the last year or so and it continued after all the suspension replacement.....

 

you would need an alignment after that though i think ???

 

Just mark where all the cams fall in the support and you should be fine.

 

I have ran into the same problem when installing my LT kit.

I would have the dealership cut the LCA out from the truck then see if they can press out the old bushings and press new ones in.

 

If you were local id help you out, sounds fun! Pressing/burning the bushing out, hell ya!

 

I've been spraying penetrating fluid on the bolts and around the bushings almost daily for the past 5 weeks. I have an oil change appointment in 2 day's and I'm getting the mechanic to see if the LCA bolts will break free now....I have to say, I don't have much faith in this but fingers crossed anyways.. I started with a large can of the red rust check deep penetrating fluid and I'm just about finished a can of the Sea foam deep creep fluid. I'll let you know what the outcome is..

 

When mine finally lock up, then it's just time to go to Total Chaos lowers...get some frame horn reinforcements for the mounts while in there. The *real* weak point of the stock LCAs on these trucks is the mount to the frame.

 

Had the same problem when I changed my LCA bushings. Had to get them cut out.

 

Those Total Chaos LCA's are nice but damn are they pricey. I guess if I ever blow out an LCA I'll go with those considering they are still cheaper than a single Toyota LCA.

 

Got a set of take-off Cambolts, complete set of 4 assemblies, used but still just fine for what they do, not bend, etc. Shoot me a PM.

 

Get new cams, install poly bushings with anti seize Bushings available on EBay from Autowarehouse

 

For anyone coming to this thread recently looking for information; what essentially happens is the LCA’s on Tacoma’s have an aluminum sleeve on the inside of the LCA’s and over time these start to rust and essentially weld themselves to the LCA and the camber bolt. This actually happened to me and I work at the dealer so I did the job myself. It’s much easier and worth the money to just buy moog LCA’s and replace them. You have to cut the camber bolt to get the LCA out. Once out you can try to get what’s left of the camber bolt out but it’s very hard and in my opinion not worth it. If you attempt to do this yourself it’s pretty straight forward, but be very careful not to cut into the ears that the LCA mounts to and weaken them. However you are going to have to take a pry bar and pry those ears out a little to get the LCA to drop out. Hope this helps. Also I was not able to get the LCA’s covered under warranty, but it’s always worth a shot.

 

I had this happen to me as well, I cut mine out with a 7" grinder wheel. I replaced with Moog greasable cam bolts and Moog LCAs.

This may help getting them off:

 

Could anyone describe the sound? I have a intermittent grinding/popping sound from the front right and I can’t find the source. Happens when I pull into or out of a parking spot some times- more pronounced if it is not a level spot. Cannot create the sound rocking the vehicle back and fourth.