OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

That's what we had to do to get my axle out in August when we replaced the needle bearing. I too had to pound the dust shield back into shape. The new axle just slid right in by hand without even having to pound on it once. And that original axle had been removed a year prior when the dealership replaced my front diff, so no idea why it didn't want to come out.

 

You get it done?

 

don't know why ive never sub'd here. ive read through parts of the thread many times. . . my 2nd gen does a hum in the morning when im backing out of the driveway. definitely coming from the front, and the hum is reiterated every time i turn the wheel. . . but once i get 1/4 mile down the road it stops and wont do it anymore the rest of the day. it steers great, 4x4 works great. never really known what it is.

 

It's the angle of force being applied relative to the clip holding the axle in place. When I punched out the side gear (stub shaft) from the back side using a punch, it took VERY little effort to remove it. That said, if there were a fork shaped device that could apply force equally from both sides at the same time rather then prying at one point, it would come out MUCH easier. The dealer I'm almost sure has a special service tool for this.

 

Yeah, after 5 hrs of sweat and back pain, it was done at 330am. PHEW!!! I hope I never have to that again. What added more time was I should have removed the Bud Builts (removal and install added 45mins). We kept trying to pry out the CVJ but those skidplates just wouldn't allow us to get a good angle on the CVJ. It would been WAY easier just to use a slide hammer. On the hub (not sure if that's what it's called) body of the CVJ, where it inserts into the diff, there are slots. I wonder if those are on there for a proprietary tool of some sort. It makes for a logical place to anchor a large hose clamp to use with a slide hammer.

Then it took me another hour just to drive the damn bushing into place. We left the spindle and CVJ attached so I only had about 2" of space to use a hammer. We should've removed the spindle altogether. It would've saved a lot time by allowing for tool work space. It was like surgery trying to reach in there with things in the way.

The diff oil did smell a bit and was dark, so draining completely and refilling with fresh oil is recommended.

Now that the bushing is in there, no more hum!!!


For anyone needing to do this, I have a needle bearing removal tool and seal for sale. I'll post it on the classifieds too with a pic.

Chase, in your video it looks like you're using a brass machined bushing install tool. Is that the one you sell also? I wish I had that when installing. It would have been easier since the socket kept slipping around and I concerned about damaging the bushing. Also, I noticed there's a very mild seam noticeable inside the bushing. I'd guess it would be better to have that installed at the top since I'm assuming there's less of a load on the top of the bushing than the bottom when in contact with the constantly rotating axle of the CVJ.

And for others wondering, my CVJ axle had about 6k miles on it after the hum noise started and it was fine, no need to replace. But my truck is also pretty new with only 12k miles total and 4WD engaged twice, so take that into consideration.

 

subd

 

Bushing removal tool and diff seal for sale:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ff-bushing-removal-tool-seal.html#post4888463

 

got the bushing in today. i know a bit but defenitely not a professional wrencher. took me about 3.5 or 4 hours from start to finish. had a hard time getting the cv axle out and then back in the diff. stupid c-clip. but she's all done. cv axle had no damage and was about 12000 miles with the vibe. another set of hands would have been handy, but defenitly doable by yourself

 

All done with mine, thanks Chase and ECGS!! Took about 2 hrs start to finish. No issues with the cv axle, smooth bearing surface, have 52k on my rig. The bushing tightened everything up nicely, no more vibes

 

2hrs! If only mine went that smoothly.

 

Anyone having problems with the seal I am on my second one now and just noticed its leaking again. I don know if I is in to far or what. Anyone know how far it should go in just to make sure I hav it right. I also changed my cv axle out to an aftermarket GSP. Does this make. Difference. This is getting annoying.

 

WTF! That sucks. Gotta be the axle. No way 2 seals leak like that. Try pulling the axle again, seating the seal as far back as possible, and take a set of calipers and measure the axle shaft where it's supposed to contact that seal. Then go to a random parts store or a dealer ship and measure that axle shaft and compare the 2 measurements.

 

I changed my axle and seal . I didn't have any issues . Just put the seal as far back as possible and tossed the axle in . Hope you figure it out .

 

Just installed mine. 2 hours. A tip for installing new bushing: use a large socket
(1 5/16''). its big enough to cover the face of the bushing but still fits within the oil seal and stops automatically because it hits the face of the race and won't allow you to install the bushing to deep. Also turn the socket backwards so the open end is facing you. Then I used two 10" extensions, incerted them into the socket, thouugh the open end (backwards) then used a small sludge hammer to gently tap the bushing in. the extensions allow you to tap out in the open where you have all the room you need. Oh ya, I have 80k, of which about 50k with noise, and cv was just fine.

 

I'm having an ARB installed may 18th, did anyone ever verify if the ARB eliminates the vibe?

 

Yes ARB will fix the problem also.

Installing with the large socket backwards is a good recommendation.


Axle seal should be installed flush with case not inset, if knocked in to far the shaft moves in and out on clip and can pull away while driving moving the axle off the seal. There is also the possibility of the seal being damaged while inserting the axle so take great care when installing axle.

 

Sweet! Post on the results and after some wheelin! I may just wait to go that route. Dual Lockers FTW.

 

so.......I would like to add my 2cents to this discussion

I bought a used "certified pre-owned" 08' Taco back in October with a 2.5-3" lift already installed and 285's.......Drove FINE until 3 weeks ago when I put true 33's on and now I'm getting a dreaded vibe from 30-50mph???? I've had the tires balanced twice since put on....The vibration seems to be coming from the wheels and transferring to the steering wheel.......Does this sound right, or is this a different problem????

Could it be possible that just the 33's simply caused this diff problem due to being heavier tires???

I'm at work at the moment but when I get off today I'm going to try the 4hi trick........If that stops it, then I have this "diff" problem????

I am in NO WAY a mechanic so I'm trying to figure out what to do at this point

 

no issues with vibes with 5100s at .75. may get the bushing and set them at 1.75.

 

If it stops in 4 HI then yes you have our problem. Sounds like you do so welcome to the thread.. Easy fix - swap the needle bearing for the ECGS Bushing and done..