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How do I take the mirror out of a 2000 tacoma?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 2000GTacoma, Nov 28, 2011.

  1. Nov 28, 2011 at 7:33 PM
    #1
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I want to take the mirror on my tacoma apart. I know how to take it off the truck but I do not know how to get to the actual glass. My mirrors are manual non folding. I am considering doing the heated mirror mod but I don't want to break my mirrors. Thanks
     
  2. Nov 28, 2011 at 8:23 PM
    #2
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    can this thread be moved to 1st gen section i guess i accidentally clicked market place
     
  3. Nov 28, 2011 at 8:42 PM
    #3
    wmdpowell

    wmdpowell Well-Known Member

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    a cross on my rearview Circle mirror Scotch guard seats
    My wife took one off her pasender side mirror on her VW by backing into the garage on that side. Try a different way
     
  4. Nov 29, 2011 at 2:19 PM
    #4
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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  5. Nov 29, 2011 at 2:23 PM
    #5
    Joben7726

    Joben7726 wes mantooth ™

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    more than list-able
    Bigger hammer.
     
  6. Nov 30, 2011 at 4:11 PM
    #6
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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  7. Nov 30, 2011 at 5:03 PM
    #7
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    The OEM mirrors are held in place with some double faced tape, you should be able to remove by carefully prying it out, thats how I replaced mine....;)
     
  8. Apr 24, 2012 at 1:59 PM
    #8
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Has anyone installed switched heated mirrors to their 1st gen?
     
  9. Apr 24, 2012 at 3:01 PM
    #9
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thats what ive been wanting to do
     
  10. Apr 25, 2012 at 6:38 AM
    #10
    jkirkpatrick

    jkirkpatrick Well-Known Member

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    Three nuts accesible by removing the door front pillar trim (the triangle piece). Manual levers have one phillips screw, remove the screw and the lever comes out. Pry out the snap fit pillar panel, remove the three nuts and the mirror will come off. Pretty easy once you start.
     
  11. Apr 25, 2012 at 10:40 AM
    #11
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i mean the glass itself. i know how to take the mirror completely off i meant how to remove the glass
     
  12. Apr 25, 2012 at 10:54 AM
    #12
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    This ^

    I'm wondering if it's anything like that 2nd gen write up for adding heated mirrors.

    Heat the assembly up on low temp in oven for a little while (to warm/loosen the adhesive)

    Then pry the mirror off the housing.
     
  13. Apr 26, 2012 at 12:52 AM
    #13
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Yep just double sticky tape holding that glass...
    I believe you must first remove the facia/retaining ring off the plastic housing.
    There must be a trick to it... but I don't know what that is.
    I do know there are little tabs that hold that in place.
    I know.. because I saw those when mine exploded.

    Most replacement mirrors(glass) I've seen...
    have terrible imagery and view more like a fun house mirror.
    So make sure before you go to all this trouble...
    yer locating a quality mirror/glass replacement...

    In all honesty... even after you figure out how to remove that plastic retaining ring of the mirror housing...
    You'll probably still have to break the glass to remove that from it's bond
    of the sticky tape... The stuff sticks very well

    I just bought a used mirror of ebay and called it good ;)

    Be careful about buying whole single or paired OEM replacements...
    or you'll end up with the fun house mirror effect as well.


    Here at least you can see some of the internals :p

    I bumped my driver's mirror into a boulder...
    and the plastic housing exploded...
    but the mirror(glass) was still intact

    I left it like that for a few months before replacing it...
    Even pressure washing's and the SW heat didn't loosen that bugger.

    mirrorfix02_9dae00209c821e22077f72795d524de30f842e98.jpg

    mirrorfix03_1c19b01895deeb62a2934ed203d225bb6117f80b.jpg

    mirrorfix04_1200385ec2d59257e70064ce7b528e74a5693f3e.jpg

    I had this extra cover tho'
    so it looked good when it was parked :D

    mirrorfix01_29229cec1403bf10d611f5a7e48e0a0d714325dd.jpg
     
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  14. Sep 5, 2012 at 1:08 PM
    #14
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    So I was fortunate enough to receive a broken mirror in the mail which triggered my attempt to install those heated pads (for motorcycle grips) behind the glass and run the wires to a switch in the cab.

    However, being a numbnutz, I have encountered a couple of issues.

    After removing the snap ring/fascia thing I was able to easily remove the broken glass from the 4 or 5 little squares of double sided adhesive.

    Then I was able to at least loosen that honeycomb backing plate pictured above.

    My question is if I adhere a heating pad to the back of the glass, how do I run the wires from the back of the glass and into the cab. I would like to have the wires go from the mirror housing down into the door and through the rubber pass through that enters the cab next to/behind the dash.

    I just don't see a way from behind the mirror to the door. I don't mind drilling a hole in the inside of the mirror housing, I just have no idea if it'll work.

    I also can't seem to separate the mirror housing in half like pictured above.
     
  15. Sep 5, 2012 at 1:16 PM
    #15
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    That's my bad on not packing crap better... sorry 'bout 'dat :eek:

    The housing can only be separated if the nut or screws securing the mirror to its base are removed...

    Mine is separated in the above picture...
    because it exploded apart after nailing a large boulder.
    Oddly... the mirror glass didn't break.

    I think there is also a single screw on the inner side of the housing that needs be removed in order to remove the outer housing.

    It's been awhile since I took one apart...
    so my detailing might be a little off.
     
  16. Sep 5, 2012 at 1:25 PM
    #16
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Yeah, there are 3 torque screws on the bottom of the outside of the housing. Two that screw into that honeycombing backing plate, one that is located underneath the ball joint where the mirror pivots. The latter screw I took out, but honestly didn't see anything different about the housing once removed.

    There are two other torque screws that hold that honeycomb backing to the housing, and those are behind the glass. That's all there is for screws. Once they are all removed I can wiggle the honeycomb backing plate around, but that is attached to the portion of the assembly where the ball joint is.

    But I do see a seam that would separate the housing in half. I just don't want to start prying on it because the plastic is soft and easily gets gouged.

    I really want to complete the heated mirror mod... the 2nd gen mirrors are so much more practical when doing this mod because there is a clear channel between the back of the glass and the portion that mounts to the truck.
     
  17. Sep 5, 2012 at 7:16 PM
    #17
    TacoDell

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    mirrorfix02-1_77455dfbce2a2d17fdc3c951319c87f79a690206.jpg

    You need to separate the housing from base/sail mount.
    there is a nut hidden under a cover that tightens on a spring
    at the ball and cup of the sail mount.

    Then maneuver the mirror housing inboard and off.
     
  18. Sep 5, 2012 at 9:39 PM
    #18
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    You know when the facetiously say, "do you need me to draw that in crayon for you!?" I typically answer, "yes :( "

    I honestly still don't get the procedure. How do you get to the hidden nut? (no homo)
     
  19. Sep 6, 2012 at 8:25 AM
    #19
    TacoDell

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    There are some screws that hold the cover plate in place on the mirror's underside of the sail mount.
    After the screws are removed...
    The cover plate either slides off or is pried out. (can't remember fo sure)

    That cover plate must be removed in order to access the nut.
    There is also a tension spring in there... and likely a cup washer or two.
    So pay attention as you disassemble that.
    It's been awhile since I took one apart...
    and can't remember every little detail of that.
     

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