Safe PSI to air down to?

i have reseated tires like that several times

 

So, just to clarify for my own safety's sake. Valve Core in, or out?

 

12 psi here!

 

I've always seen starter fluid used but I think most flammable aerosols would do the trick. Others, chime in if I'm wrong.

 

I've done it many times. Always left the core in. When I checked the pressure after the bead seated it was always very low. Not sure how the tire would blow up Once the bead seats the fire in the tire will go out.

I've always used carb and choke cleaner and on a car/truck tire, a 3-4 second spray is enough.

 

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I'm glad I started this thread, I learned a lot (the norm at TW)

 

This works wonders. Years ago I ordered rear tires for my quad out of a magazine. They banded the things together for shipping. The beads were bent all to hell and NOBODY, tire shops or anyone I tried could get them to seat. So me and my friend discussed trying it. We were skeered. His father which had done it several times on his low boy tires did it for us on the first one and it worked on the 1st try. So we did the 2nd one all though it took a couple of tries for us. Point of the story was that I didn't believe it would work and that I would have to ship them back.

 

I ran 6psi last time out but feel that 12-14psi on rocks is best in my km2's. This varies from tire to tire and load range also alloy wheels are less likely to pop a bead then steel wheels

 

No bead locks I go like this: 14-18 on grippy earth(dirt/rocks). 12 in deep snow.

 

Sweet. Even gave me a tip on how long to not over spray it. Thanks man.

 

I carry a can of ether for just that reason. I've also used acetylene on a tractor tire.

I'll pull the core. Not worried about blowing up the tire but blowing out the damn valve stem. You only need a quick burst of ether.

Doesn't take much seriously.

If you do have a compressor, a ratchet strap around the center of the tire can help seat the bead.

 

I just picked up some parts from my buddy who is a Master tech at a toyota dealership. We were discussing this topic and he told me when he mounted 98regstick's 285's the tires beads were so close together from storage/shipping he could not get the beads to seat. So he pulled out the ether. Had to use this method on all 4 tires. Two worked fine, the other two had something strange happen. He said the bead seated with the ether, then moments later the tire would collapse and the bead would unseat. All we could come up with was that the fire in the tire consumed enough oxygen to create a vacuum and collapse the tire. So he just hooked up a compressor to the tire while doing the ether trick and problem solved. Weird.

 

I've heard of this happening with the core in. Another reason to pull it out.

 

So I guess I need to ask now...

where do you buy ether? Home Depot? And I'm assuming it comes in a spray can?

 

Starting fluid, never looked for it at homedepot i'd go to any auto store, or even walmart, yes in a can. Carb cleaner works well too

 

This all reminds me...

Thanks to Terry. Re-upped the pictures.

 

2 of ?

 

FWIW I carry ether, valve stems, cores, a tool, tire spoons, patches, plugs, stitcher, reamer, and wire to stitch the carcass if need be in my kit.

 

Hey that's me! . haha but ya I got ballsy enough to go down to 8 PSI and it performed amazingly well and I had no problems by going this low. I will continue to go to 8 PSI on very technical trails in the future. Wheel is 16"x8" and tires are 33"x12.5" (no beadlock).

(and for those of you following my build thread, my most recent flat while offroading was due to dirt/debri/small rocks getting pushed up into the valve stem and causing it to release air even though I had the plastic valve cap on)

 

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