LCA Question

'Rodger' on the other site uses a slurry consisting of Mobil-1 and graphite powder for his stuff.

 

Sorry, I thought you were saying you couldn't find OEM UCA bushings. As an alternative, check out Light Racing UCA's. They come with a new ball joint and are relatively inexpensive (also adjustable). I might have a set for sale in a bit. I bought a used set, going to replace the bushings with the new Spec Ride bushings and decide if I need them for alignment. If not, I'll sell them off.

I've been marking the cam bolts every time I've taken my front end apart and I can definitely tell a difference. If I were you, I'd trace the cam's head on the LCA mount and also mark the steel for orientation. I made the mistake of only drawing a line for orientation and I think it slipped in and out, throwing my alignment off.

Good luck!

 

Just stumbled across these

http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...Tacoma&year=2005+-+2012&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

 

Nice find! Those seem pretty interesting, the only thing I don't like about their sales pitch is, if I can get the old bolts free, I'd just grease them and reinstall rather than spend $120 on new bolts

Good to know there are other options besides OEM though. For comparison, the SPC bolts are $120 for a complete set, the OEM set is around $85 for the set through Camelback Toyota.

 

This Cam Bolt Kit is a replacement kit for the OE adjusters. The OE bolts on Toyota trucks and SUV's are frequently "frozen" and do not allow for adjustment. Remove the frozen bolt assembly and replace it with an SPC cam kit to get up to +/- 1-1/2 degree camber and caster change. OE adjuster assemblies that are severely corroded may require SPC's press tool 40915 for removal, making the job quick and easy.

 

Just a bolt press. Neat, but not overly effective if the bolts are truely frozen. I'd imagine a few smacks with a heavy hammer would do just as much to remove the frozen bolt.

 

The SPC cam bolt kit looks like the bolt is sleeved , is the OEM set up the same ?

 

The fronts have a sleeved nut, the rears are just a bolt that goes through the bushing.

 

Thanks , just saw that in the pics Boyd posted , duh

 

Neat idea using plastic as the bushing sleeve. It will never corrode but the bolt and bushing still will and I wonder if that will eat the plastic up over time.

Someone needs to test these long term. For the additional money it's worth it if these suckers last 120k saving you the time and money for at least 1 cycle of replacements.

The bolts don't look strong and I wonder what their rating is?

 

I liked the idea of the plastic as it would make sure there is no direct contact between the metal bits .

 

they are grade 8 acording to the bolt markings

 

if you guyz wana help me with the cost i would be more then happy to try them out for youz guyz.......

mike you hating life yet?

 

the bolts I cut out seemed harder then grade 8. fuckers took 4 sawzall blades and I still wasn't through one. I can cut a grade 8 like butter and metric rating s totally different.

 

you buy that turd yet?

thats actually not a bad idea. TW needs a R&D department where members kick in a few bucks so we can have shit tested......or get the companies to donate it so TW members can do reviews. with 76k in members our buying power is HUGE!

 

you need diff sawzall blades....
i can cut throught some serious bolts and sch 80 with minimal effort.....
ill send ya 1

 

i find that lenox 614r are the best metal cutting bvlades out there....
i just used an old blade to make about 30 cuts on some sch 40 for the traget for the compition that u chickening out of......at bc
and they cut like butter.....
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

 

Why ? So somebody else gets them when you turn in your beater ?

 

shits mine well actually not.....
its the banks and now i just have to pay more a month then before....
but if i go to work a lil more im cuting the bedsides off and caging this mo fo....
mall crawling here is a bitch

 

see my post way above. I used Lenox laser cut blades from Grainger. The bolts aren't mild steel like you were cutting. I even stopped and waxed the blades with a stick of cutting wax every 30 seconds.

So you now own that POS?

No trading it in for a heep.....WOOT! wait...now I can't buy your trail spares