Need to replace all brake fluid...How do I?

Would like to flush and refill brake lines but im not sure where to start(rr,lr,etc)and the correct procedure for doing this. Any advise appreciated.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mzVBcbFW48


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZpe5TBMjCQ


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs&feature=fvwrel

 

When bleeding brakes you always start with the wheel that's farthest away from the Master Cylinder. So RR, LR, RF, LF.

Use something to get out all the old fluid you can from the reservoir. Fill it up with new clean fluid, I always use DOT 4 because of its higher boiling point. And don't use a can of fluid that's been opened, it draws moisture.

Get some clear tube that will fit the bleeder tip, and a small cup of fluid. Put the hose on the bleeder tip, stick it down in the fluid. This does a couple things, keeps air from getting sucked back in, let's you see the air bubbles coming out much easier.

Don't forget to keep the reservoir full, very important. You can keep the lid off during the process. You will need to bleed each wheel till you see fresh clear fluid coming out with no bubbles. Oh, did I mention to keep the reservoir full!

Hope this helps!!

 

It's much easier to have a 'buddy' help you with the bleeding process. My husband always works the bleeders while I work the pedal....

 

Another trick is to use a diff color fluid. Like Super Blue. When the color changes, you've flushed it. Next time around, you go back to amber, etc.

 

Like that tip Elmo!

 

super blue is very good fluid and does make a flush easier (the next time you need a flush by the gold-same fluid just "normal" color)

what I really like for flushing a brake system is one of these- A Motive self bleeder http://www.motiveproducts.com/ , you pour new fluid into the unit, attach to the MC, pump it up and then go from bleeder to bleeder- couldn't be easier and it does a better job of bleeding than pumping the brakes

not sure if they have a specific adapter for the 2nd gen Tacoma, but will find out soon

 

Posted this from FSM few years ago but here is the process to bleed brakes (replace fluid)

 

id use the vacuum pump method. no worries about bottoming your master cylinder

 

And be VERY careful what you touch with the brake fluid on your hands!!!!

Don't go and caress any painted or plastic part of your vehicle with even a little residue on your hands.

 

And do not ever ever allow the master to go dry.

If you allow air to get pulled beyond the master and into the ABS unit, you will need to take it to a shop that has the proper equipment to bleed the ABS unit. You can't just "push" the air through the ABS unit the way you do the calipers.

Doable as a one-man job, but definitely better to have at least a 2nd pair of eyes.

 

This post just made my day. My wife will be upset though, there's another $100 tool I need to buy.

 

http://tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2251306&postcount=669

looks interesting

 

^ I have to give that guy an A for innovation

 

Great reply's all, I do appreciate it. Ill be changing the fluid soon. Thanks again.

 

some will argue that ATE super blue is more of a racing fluid and will absorb more water. logic is that racers change fluid much more frequently.

i use to use it in my track car..(now i use Motul, which absorbs even more water)., but i hated how it dyed everything blue. my reservoir is blue, my motiv speed bleeder is blue, my hose is blue..hate it.

now i just know..couple of bottles, call it good.

 

I ordered a Motiv Bleeder with the universal cap (0100). The 2gen reservoir doesn't easily allow the conical shaped cap to fit. I could get it to hold maybe 5psi but no more and even then, it leaked down.

I called the support number, described my problem and was sent a steel bar to that some 4Runner guys use. This didn't help as much as I'd hoped.
So, I called back and agreed to meet Eric at the shop (I live about 45 min or so from their shop).

When I arrived, I was able to demonstrate the problem easily. It's really difficult to get the cap to seat because the reservoir doesn't allow for the chain to pull straight down on the cap-which is why it leaks.

What I ended up using was this. It fits in the reservoir and seals correctly to about 10psi. One caution though. You absolutely want to use a strap of some sort to insure it doesn't pop out. And you want to use some cleaner to clean the mating surfaces.

I'll post some pictures later. But so far, this has worked well.

 

thanks for the update- too bad they couldn't come up w/ something a little easier

 

A big part of the problem is how the Toyota reservoir is designed. As you're aware, the cap doesn't lock on. If it did, then it'd be easy. Gotta say that locking the pressure fitting on is definitely a hell of a lot easier than the universal cap

 

With all your advise the brake fluid change went very well. I did old fashion way and had a helper to pump the brake pedal. We found discoloration and what looks like condensation in the fluid. Truck had 110,000 mi on it. Took little effort to change fluid as all your inputs helped us out. Thanks again to all.