Preventative Maintenance for Long Travel (Advice after going LT)

Anyone have gussets on motor mounts on a 1st gen round here? How much of a pita is it to do? Replacing motor mounts is a pain fo sho from wut I heard(referring to 1st gens). Would love that peace of mind. I believe in the over build and not need then under build and wish u had done more....

 

By the way this should be a sticky!

 

x2

 

This guy made some pretty beefy ones and was offering to make them a while back

 

x3 there's a lot more to be done than just bolting up a kit.

 

If you're going to have rear LT, i think its good to have the rear c-channel frame boxed in. IDK if its essential once you get a rear setup, but it would prevent any flex or bending in the future. Preventive maintenance! Heres mine.





The stock crossmember (X) was left because my fabricator believes that it actually is a very structurally sound part of the frame. Its a big X and it supports both the top and bottom of the C-Channel. Its just a bitch to plate around it. Some people have cut it out and add their own crossmember, which i think is good as well.




I had to box the frame anyways because i have a fat notch in it lol

 

DMZ's got the templates, not sure if he will sell, call him up dmzfab.com

 

I noticed it looks like your E-Brake cable is still attached... is that correct? If so do you just leave it dangling like that? Any worry about breaking it due to travel and or debris? Thanks.

 

thats very good frame plate work. ill get a pic of mine.., you can make it yourself....

heres mine..

 

Yeah its attached. Its not dangling like in the picture. It hasnt given me any problems

 

Boxed frame is a good idea. Here is the only pic I have of mine. Also moved the hitch up into the frame rails and welded it in

 

Sub'd, I'm starting this stuff early, way before long travel. I've already started on my motor mount gussets, should be done this weekend. I'm doing TC LCA cam tab gussets beginning of next month when I get paid.

 

this topic is good stuff!!

some other things to periodically check for..

cracks in the transmission cross member...
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/191765-large-cracks-transmission-crossmember.html

also, check for cracks at the lower control arm mounts at the frame. i found these cracks shortly after my LT install and had them welded at AllPro..

these cracks were found on both passenger and driver side:

 

Great pictures Monkeyproof!

Thats another good point....we need to know common places that are prone to failure and cracks. The pictures help as well! I need to check the tranny Xmember

 

This is one of the better threads I have read in a while.

I am a mid travel expedition rig, building for back country travel were self reliance and equipment dependability, under load is paramount.

Luckily you LT guys take a beating and your knowledge trickles down to us MTers!

I have the TC Upper Coil Bucket Tower Gussets, TC Weld on Spindle Gussets, and TC Lower Control Arm Cam Tab Gussets waiting install.

I am wondering what the best paint job method is to have them ready. Mainly what areas to leave clean to allow the weld.

Also, is this a solid option for beefing up the rear? The thought being it is enough for my application with out removing the bed for the type of major reinforcements you LTers apply.Shackle Mount Cross-member 05^ tacoma



I would never had thought about gusseting the motor/transmission mounts until I read this thread.

Great info, keep sharing.

 

this is definitely a good read, for us little people that have stock rides. sheds light on what needs to be addressed, to go full ON BREAUX. seriously, I am thinking of getting all the support, bracing done, before I purchase a LT kit, and this is a nice map, visual on what I have to look forward to. If I dont go LT, at least I have a truck that is ready.

should be a sticky, as well

 

Great thread Mark. Here are a few things that I suggest for 05+ Tacomas.

-Relocate battery to bed. 1st fix:My battery bounced around under the hood after the stock bracket failed during some light offroading. 2nd fix I then bought a battery box for my Optima and reinforced the inner fenderwell with some 1/4" plate. That lasted a year or so and I still had isssues with the fenderwell collapsing under the weight of the battery. 3rd I finally had to relocate the battery and box to my toolbox to keep it clean, and secure. I used a really heavy gauge welding wire (2 gauage I think) routed along my frame to the battery.

-Upgrade your wheel studs. Buy the ARP extended wheel studs. They are much longer and stronger than the Toyota stuff. Most aftermarket wheels are so deep that the stock wheelstuds barely allow a lug nut to bite. This is a really cheap mod when you think about the damage that you can do to yourself and your truck if a few wheel studs break during a weekend trip.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7715

-Upgrade your brake lines to stainless steel or equivalent. I suggest brake pads and rotors as well. You will need all the stopping power you can get with 33-35" tires running around in the dirt. The rubber Toyota stuff gets really hot and expands causing your brakes to go to mush. The brakes on the 05+ Tacomas suck on the street and even more in the dirt.

-Keep an aluminum jack in your truck at all times. I have been saved so many times when something failed or I had to change a tire. You cannot (safely) change a tire on an LT truck with anything less than a floor jack. I hated using a hi-lift in the past to raise the truck.

-Essential spare parts in truck at all times.

• Wheel studs and lug nuts
• U-joints for driveshaft
• Wheel bearing: both sides are the same
• Battery connectors

-Buy quality offroad lights. You will outrun your stock headlights at night or you will miss seeing a ditch etc when coming back or going to camp. Accidents can/will happen with lights but they are a huge help and have saved my life. (I almost hit a train that was blacked out at night in the desert.) I suggest not hauling the mail thru unfamiliar areas anyway.

-Buy or fab skidplates. You dont need to be a rock crawler to need good skidplates. I suggest from bumper to transfer case if you have one. I have bottomed out the truck hard on mine and without them I would have been done and stranded 50 miles from the nearest road. Aluminum is pricey but easier to move yourself and keeps the truck's weight down.

-Get a quality pre-runner bumper made. A good bumper can save your life if you wad your truck up. A real bumper with solid frame horns is what Im talking about. The bolt on stuff is nice and looks the part but a well made bumper with solid crossmembers can save your front end during a hard hit. Expect to pay $1500 if you want a good fab shop to make you a weld-on bumper. It can be done for less but something is usually missing: materials, fit/finish, craftsmanship.

 

I would like to emphasize motor mount gussets again. My engine smacked the front diff so hard it blew a hole in the oil pan.


Also adjust your front bumps properly and do not add too much preload to your coilovers or it will shatter the top hat.


"If you're in the air, stay off the gas"


Even if your HID's are so bright you can see three counties away there may be danger lurking in the shadows. This was on a road I knew, just one rainstorm caused this wash out and subsequent 60-0 mph stop. Radiators are vital to getting you home, so protect it with your bumper/engine cage design. Also do not use electric fans (they never last long) and keep a spare belt.


Replace the stock rubber carrier bearing on the driveshaft with a solid bearing. It will save you many u-joints.


Inspect your rig before and after every wheelin' trip and you will find minor problems before they turn into total failure. I mean physically get out the socket set and check bolts for tightness. You will be surprised at how many loose bolts you find.

 

Is there a write up for the solid carrier bearing for a first gen

 

Username, priceless info, added to my list of schooling.

The pics are a big help.