Real world KBB example.

I thought a few people might want to see this example. I just traded my 2006 for a 2010 Tacoma yesterday. (at a Nissan dealer)

KBB- 2010-Retail 31,759. 2006-trade in Very good condition 17,023. Difference of 14,736.

What I actually paid- 2010- 29,491. 2006 Trade in Very good condition 15,500. Difference 13,991.

So, the aggregate difference is just about the same. I did better than the book by ~745 dollars.

So if you are looking for a current real world example, there you go. KBB is high, but seems equally high.

 

kbb on my truck is less than 10k, nada is almost 15k, it's all a bunch of speculation and bs really.

 

Thats more than what I paid for my '12 DCSB TRD Sport 4x4 new off the lot

 

^^^ that is more than what I paid for a 2012 DCLB 4x4 SR5.......

 

Here in NC these trucks are worth their weight in gold.

 

I paid right around that for my 12 DCLB TRD sport 4x4 w/ tow package, entune, etc

 

I had a dealer shoot me a trade # and it was way below the KBB value. (4-5k) He told me no one wants a 5 spd manual in our area... and the truck was under the factory warranty at the time for another year and had about 20k miles, and in perfect condition. So its also relative to the area demand as well. But I do know I narrowed my market with both the 4 cyl and manual when I bought the truck.

 

I would tend to believe the salesman was feeding you full of bs

 

Agreed,
After paying sticker for my first truck because I did not know any better, I have never paid even close to sticker on any vehicle after that.
My current truck had a $26,000 sticker, I paid $19,800
My wife's previous minivan had a $28,999 sticker, I paid $26,200.
Current minivan had a $34,950 sticker, I paid $ 28,000.

KBB value is like the sticker price, and then you negotiate down from there. On trade-in it is the opposite, they will offer you less and you have to negotiate up.

So, don't pay KBB value, and don't accept dealer's trade-in offer if it's lower than KBB - it is just a starting point for negotiations.