2012 Pricing - What did you pay?

Update...
$32,490.00 for the truck
$1,787.00 for tax
$80.00 for license
making it $34,357 in my driveway
$60 for rainguards
$350 for clear bra
$820 for the Bakflip F1
$50 for the tint
$525 for the compustar
$558 for the tube steps and skid plate
$91 for auto pop n lock
making it $36,811...Damn maybe I should slow down ha ha ha.
Lift will have to wait a little longer. All in all I think I got some good deals.

 

2012 RC 2.7L 4x4 19,000

 

my 2010 is currently selling for what i paid for it 2 and a half years ago, and it's got 50kmi on it. just did an autotrader search, i love it!

 

2012 MGM TRD Sport 4x4 DCSB, Tow Package, DRL's

Dealer Invoice $30,417 less Customer Cash of $500 = $29,917. I paid $29,862 out the door, which included a $199 dealer document fee ($29,663 for truck) which was $254 under dealer invoice. The truck had been sitting on their lot for over a month, so I think they were ready to move it. My goal was to get it for no more than dealer invoice figuring I'd still have to pay the $199 document fee, so I think I got a pretty good deal. Picking it up tomorrow morning. Can't wait. TRD Performance Exhaust, Door Sill Protectors, and Weathertech DFL's sitting in the garage waiting for arrival.

 

just started shopping today. I had the dealer order me a White 2012 Sport DCSB 4x4 6spd without entune for 32 ish (I'm not obligated to purchase). If I could get out the door just under 30k with licensing and registration (no sales tax in Oregon) I would be happy. Sound like a fair deal? On a side not I can't decide if I want to undo all of the mods I have done to my truck and sell them individually, or sell the truck out right as is. I have one last payment to make before I have title in hand. Regardless I'm really looking forward to owning a DC!

 

For my 12 Double Cab 4x4 Sport with JBL package, Tow package, and Entune! I paid $36k with taxes and all included.

It was a lot of money, but I will tell you the windows will rattle when the base is turned up! Great sound...

 

I was OTD for less than 30K (sorry to be cryptic, I promised to not disclose).
The sticker was 33,300 for a spruce dc with gry interior 4x4, TRD off road extra value pkg, v6 towing package for off road, day running lights and all weather floor mats.
I added heated leather seats, oval steps, trk box and roof rack, brought price to 35,800. Add TTT and it hit ~ 38k. Like I said, I got it below 30K OTD

I got raped on my tundra, this time I was prepared, here are my suggestions to get a good deal:
1. Research, research, research
2. Have a great credit rating (780+)
3. Shop in an area that has several dealerships (I had over 20 to choose from)
4. Timing (now is a good time to grab a 2012, the 2013s will be hitting the dealers in ~ 90 days)
5. Secure your own financing (if the dealership can do better terms you can alway take it, also it lets the dealer know you are serious)
6. Have a first choice and a second choice in mind.
7. Do not let them know you are hooked on a color or option.
8. Hit a dealership that has the model you want on the property.
9. If trading, get a quote from car max first (It lets you know that if you get the new vehicle where you want it, you can always refuse the dealerships offer on your trade, plus it gives you a realistic value for your trade.
10. Be ready to deal when you walk in.
11. It will help if you know someone who also purchased from the dealership and their sales person
12. Never tell them how much you owe on your trade, until they make an offer for it. do not fill out any paperwork with your SSN until they have made the offer on your trade.
13. Dont be a dick, and dont let them be one either
14. Let them make the new vehicle offer first, then low ball counter by at least 12% off sticker.
15. If they counter your counter, have a max amount you will pay and make that your last offer. (you need to calculate TTT in that final price as well as your trade.
16. Do not pay for any last minute crap in the finance office unless it helps out your deal, (lower interest rate, guaranteed refund on extended warranty.
17. Always be ready to walk out at any time.

 

Can't believe pricing is up that much from '08. Bought my DC sport 4x4 11/07 for a 1000 over invoice. 27,800 .Sticker price was 30,500. Considering I traded an identical '06 but Black truck with 50k miles ,told them I wanted the same deal I got in '06..oh and the tow package was included.

 

Picked mine up at Garden Grove CA, 05/22/12. MGM 4x2 Sport DC/SB, every option. This Dealer claims life time warranty on tires. If I were to pickup a nail, they replace it with a new tire. Thats what sold me. Sticker price $31,364.00. Out the door price $31,500.00. Don't know if this was a steal or not but insurance gave me $400.00 more for my totaled 011 then what I paid for the new 012. Truck is equipped with the four pak leafs vs my 011 three pak. It's evident that the ride is stiffer, and it may just be me but it seems the truck sits a little higher in the rear.

 

What did you pay under/over the invoice?

 

Great advice and an even better OTD price! I tried to get a quote from carmax until i realized that the closest one is a days drive away haha

 

my first post on here:
2012 TX Pro Double Cab $33,500

 

Thanks for the comments guys,
Creedler, Try hitting some other used car places and see what they offer you for your trade. Also check out http://www.carsdirect.com. Whatever value you get from cars direct should be within 1k of your actual trade value.

Here is the real deal on trade ins:
When you walk into a dealership and let them copy your drivers license or fill out any forms they will use that information to pull your credit while you are test driving or talking to a sales person. Most people are not even aware of this happening, they do not need your permission to do it. They will later ask you to fill out something granting them permission to pull your credit, this is a simple formality for them and it does not matter what you do.

Once they have the credit report they will see what vehicles you have financed and they will know how much you you owe. If you are not upside down then they will offer about 2k over what you owe. This is their buffer of profit on then trade in. It is not the only profit but it is an area where they can make you think you are getting a deal.

One other approach is to see what you trade in is selling for on carmax.com. Chop about 4-5k from that average figure and that should be close to your trade in value.

Keep in mind that everything is negotiable and you must have some of the cards on your side to win at the car buying game. If your credit is bad, if you are upside down on your trade, if your emotionally invested in a specific truck, if you give them the upper hand at any time, you will loose but leave with a new truck thinking you got a fair deal.

Bottom line, consider the trade in a separate deal from the purchase and work that end first. In my case 07 DC limited Tundra 4x4 Blk w/Red Rocks Int. My truck was in excellent shape except for a few scratches on the exterior. I tried to clean up some of them but they were too deep and this drooped the value by (I am guessing) 500-1k. here is the final numbers:
From research a comparable truck sells for 23-29k
Carsdirect had my trade in @ 23k
NADA had my trade in @ 22k
KBB had my trade in @ 23k
Edmunds had my trade in @ 18k

Knowing all this I low balled my estimate @ 19k
I owed 13k and that would leave me 6k to play with
Carmax offered 20k (good for seve days)
So when I went into the dealership I knew they would have to beat 20k and I was not concerned that they would screw me because I could alway sell to carmax.

As it turned out, they offered me 20,500 and that was fine with me.

Once I had the purchase down to OTD 30k, I threw 4K from the trade at it and asked for a check back to me for the remainder. That ment that I ended up financing 26k.

Again, you must have the cards on your side and you must treat each transaction as a separate deal.

Hope this helps

 

You know to tell the truth I don't know! I was just concern about the final out the door number.

 

thanks again for your advice. I have great credit, will have the truck paid off before I trade in, and I'm not in a hurry or emotionally invested. I'll wait months to find the right deal. I'm also trading my truck in basically stock so i don't lose money on mods.

On a side note, do you think it is a good idea to clean the truck up really nice before it is appraised at the dealer? Obviously it can't be covered in mud but do you think it's worth it to detail, armorall the tires etc.?

 

I got a 2012 4 door pre runner tacoma blue tooth xm radio tow hitch exhaust tip for 26k
so cheap such a good deal but this is also the 2nd tacoma i bought from the same guy
if you live in so cal ill give you his info

 

wow thats a good deal. what was the MSRP? How much under invoice?

 

Creedler, I would say yes to cleaning it up. Every little thing helps and speaks volumes as to how well you maintained the vehicle. In my situation, the red rocks leather interior had a few areas that the dye had worn off (I am guessing it was not sealed properly at the factory) but the leather was still in mint condition. So I paid 95.00 to have the leather touched up. The guys who did it was a pro and you can not tell it was touched up. It was well worth the 95.00. also I has some scratches that could be buffed out on the exterior and I spent about 30.00 on a 3m kit to do that. Also I steam cleaned the engine as well as other areas. all this paid off in the long run. So i would not have spent 1k in cleaning and fixing small stuff but under 200 was reasonable and worked in my favor.

For the other guys in this thread, There is no significance between the sticker and the invoice amount. Here is what you should work off:
Example from Toyota.com

In this example the base is 27,585
The package you want (in this example the TRD off road) 3,675
Tow pkg 650
day run lights 40
You must include the manu del proc hndlg fee @ 880
include any other options you want and forget about the other added junk like toyoguard and dealer fees. This should bring this vehicle to 32,830 before TTT
cut 12% from the 32,830 and we are now @ 28,890.4
Lets say the TTT is 2k
So the total for this vehicle is now 30,890.4
They will build an offer for something like 33,800, keep in mind the sticker was 34,149.95. It really does not matter what they offer. Your counter offer should low ball your target amount. In this example the target should be 30,500 so the low ball counter should be for 29k w/TTT. They may counter your counter with something higher than your target (if its lower than your target, say 30,200 take the offer) otherwise, if they counter for higher than the target then you decide weather to walk of stick it out. If you stick it out you counter with your target of 30,500 take it or leave it. During this process they may ask what you plan to out down (either cash or from the trade) but you tell them you will decide that after the vehicle price is agreed on.

So lets say you owe 15k on your trade and they offered you 20k and you found that to be fair, you now have 5k to play with and lets assume you plan to through that at the purchase that means you should have a total amount of 25,500 to be financed OTD anything else and you did not do as well as you could have. As I said in my first post, if you get taken on this deal as I was when I got the tundra in 07, learn from the experience and be prepared the next time. I hope this helps. BTW I am not a pro at this by any means but I think I understand the process at this point and want to help out others if I can.

 

I ordered my trd sport with entune, regular trd wheels. 30800 out the door.

 

Is that OTD or just sale price.