Clay Bar Questions

Ya... not too many things better for removing waterspots than claybar.

Doesn't work so well on an older shield that's been heavily pitted... the pits tend to catch and hold the clay. It kills some of the shimmer from the pits, but it doesn't look any better.

 

When using the clay bar how much pressure do you apply? Is there anyway of hurting the paint? I am going to do it this summer.

 

No pressure. Lubricate well with quick detailer spray and let the clay do the work.
You aren't "buffing" the paint... you are allowing the clay to pull out contaminants.

 

So just light pressure? Gentle wiping?

 

Pretty much. Just gentle circles.
Knead it often to bury the contamination that it picks up, don't let it get dry, and when you drop it, don't bother picking it up.

 

On your color truck, any dust/debris will likely make some noticeable scratches. Make sure it's as clean as possible before claying. Use a good lubricant (Optimum No-Rinse) and a high quality bar. Do all the upper surfaces first. Knead and turn the clay frequently. Good luck.

 

so it goes wash, clay, wax then polish or wash, clay, polish, then wax?

 

Clay Bars are a joke. They don't do any better than hand washing and scrubbing and some hand rubbing with compound can do. Waste of time if you ask me, just my experience. I use to own a detail shop and we never clay barred anything.

I'd recommend 3M 06060 extra cut compound for any stubborn imperfections. Rubbing by hand might take a couple applications but it will do the trick. Follow up with polish, recommend 3M Perfect it machine polish (get the one for dark colors no matter what color you have) You can get these at O'reillys.

 

Sorta....My steps may be a little more involving.

Wash (Optimum No Rinse), dry, Iron-X, rinse off, dry, Optimum No Rinse (Detailing spray level concentration) and clay, wash, dry, polish (to remove hairline scratches), seal, wax, detail spray. While significantly involving, at minimum you will want to include just about all of those steps, save for perhaps the sealant and detail spray. The Iron-X will surprise you....pleasantly.

 

Claying is expressly used to remove fallout and surface contaminants. Compounds are used for "cutting" to remove scratches. 2 very different products with different uses.

I won't comment on the other recommendations you made.

 

That's where you are wrong Dave, actually compound is also for removing contaminates and I can do in 2 minutes what it will take you an hour f ing around with your silly clay bar but please keep claying away weekend warrior detailer.

As for my recommendations, I've detailed literally thousands of cars and used every product out there and 3m makes the best compound and polish because it simply works the best. But since you seem to not really know what compound does, what exactly is your qualification on recommending anything????

 

Well if it matters, I've detailed.....hundreds of cars. I formerly owned a fairly well known biz that specialized in high end builds......and we did detailing as well. Started off in the industry doing engine builds and detailing. That was over 17 years ago. All that being said, I am far from a professional detailer.

Now just for clarification, I didn't say anywhere that the compound wouldn't remove contaminants....hell, I could sand the paint to metal and claim that sand paper removes it was well. That's not the point. As for 3M being the best.....completely opinion. I do like 3M products, but for the weekend warrior, there are better products. GTechniques P1, Chemical Guys FP Ultra Fine, Menzerna Final Polish are some other products to look at. I use the P1. Good stuff, low risk for the casual detailer, goes a long way, comes off easy.

 

Ummm........welcome to Tacoma World. By the way, glad you saw the COC statement here.

 

Clay bar'd my 01 truck two weekends ago and then did my wife's 08 accord this weekend. Her accord was way nastier than my truck was just judging by the bar. Guess that means i've been neglecting the wifes ride just a little. Oops!