Houston....I got a problem

Had the guys over on Saturday to help install my new lift. Things went well but while I was under the truck with the skid plate off I noticed a ton of oil in the engine bay and on various lower areas of the truck. The truck has NEVER leaked oil EVER and I park in the exact same spot every day. I've yet to see a drop on the pavement below it.

So here's what I find when I'm under there. It would appear as though I'm leaking oil from the front crank pulley seal. There is no oil above that area but everything lower than it seems to have oil on it. In the second and third pictures you can see a small droplet of oil collecting on the crossmember bump and also on the oil drain plug. I think the oil leak is up front but the wind from driving blows it back.

Has this happened to anyone here?

 

Also, I checked my oil level and it's fine.....

 

No but mine has started to leak from the right side head. I figure as long as I keep oil in it it'll be good. I feel for you man, those main seals are a pain to replace and burn up a bank account in labor costs.

 

I've read of other people having the timing cover leak but I didn't see indications that the leak was that high up.

 

Just now noticed it... first pic: is that tube covered in "splatter" possibly from the main (crank) pulley right there?

 

Looks that way. The area under the idler pully seems a bit cleaner in the pic. My guess is it's the front main seal on the crank pulley. Just wanted to get some opinions.

 

I have replaced the crank seal. It is not difficult. The hardest part is getting the crank bolt off. It is held on by 200 ft-lbs. If you have an impact and a compressor, you will be a head of the game.

 

Spray it down with some degreaser and wash it clean, or wash it down with brake clean, then monitor it closely to be sure of the source. It does look like the front crank seal, the timing cover leak usually happens on the passenger's side and I think an '09 should be in the clear with the update, and yours is dry there. As said, not a big deal once you get the crank bolt out.

Are you over milage for powertrain warranty on your '09?

 

For a very slight leak I would use the infrared dye technique. The auto stores around here have the dye. You just add it to the oil and it glows under UV light. It's very easy to find tiny leaks with that stuff. I would clean the engine first so you have less gunk in the way.

Here's what i'm talking about:

$35 Tracer Products TP34000601 UV Fluorescent Leak Detection Dye - Set of 6

http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM

I can buy the dye in a single bottle here, and you can find UV lights cheap.

 

I have the 100k mile warranty that was purchased with the truck. Should cover stuff like this to my knowledge. I'm going to take her in and see what they say. If I have to replace it myself I might give it a go.

I do have an impact wrench but how the hell would I get it in front of the crank pulley? Seems like that would require taking out the radiator and fan no?

 

Let me know if you need help. I live in Ft Worth.....plus I know who to ask when I need an impact wrench

 

The fan and radiator have to come out.

 

I have done it both ways. You need a fair size compressor.

 

EM–166

1GR-FE ENGINE MECHANICAL – ENGINE FRONT OIL SEAL
ENGINE FRONT OIL SEAL
REMOVAL

1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
2. REMOVE V-BANK COVER (See page [COLOR=rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%)]ES-414) [/COLOR]
3. REMOVE RADIATOR SUPPORT TO FRAME SEAL LH
   (See page [COLOR=rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%)]CO-15) [/COLOR]
4. REMOVE NO.1 ENGINE UNDER COVER SUB- ASSEMBLY (for 4WD and Pre Runner Drive Type)

(a) Remove the 4 bolts and engine under cover.

1. REMOVE FAN SHROUD (See page [COLOR=rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%)]CO-15) [/COLOR]
2. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY (See page [COLOR=rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%)]EM-45) [/COLOR]
3. REMOVE TIMING GEAR CASE OR TIMING CHAIN CASE OIL SEAL

(a) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the crankshaft. Wrap a tip of the screwdriver with tape.
INSTALLATION

1. INSTALL TIMING GEAR CASE OR TIMING CHAIN CASE OIL SEAL
   
   • (a) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
   • (b) Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its
     surface is flush with the timing chain cover edge.
     SST 09226-10010
2. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY (See page [COLOR=rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%)]EM-30) [/COLOR]
3. INSTALL FAN SHROUD (See page [COLOR=rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%)]CO-20) [/COLOR]
4. INSTALL RADIATOR SUPPORT TO FRAME SEAL LH
5. CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
   Torque: 3.9 N*m (40 kgf*cm, 35 in.*lbf)
6. CHECK FOR ENGINE OIL LEAKAGE
7. INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY (for 4WD and Pre Runner Drive Type)

(a) Install the engine under cover with the 4 bolts.
Torque: 29 N*m (296 kgf*cm, 21 ft.*lbf)
8. INSTALL V-BANK COVER
(a) Install the V-bank cover with the 2 nuts.
Torque: 7.5 N*m (76 kgf*cm, 66 in.*lbf)

 

My impact wrench is rated at 550lb/ft

Lovely....

30 gallons should be enough

Really....y'all are the best. If I can't get it done by the dealer I'll PM you in the near future.

 

Crank seals? They actually pretty easy to replace by yourself. True they cost tons of money when you go to dealer.

 

Dont use impact wrench on crank bolt. Unless you want to screwup oil pump gear or round the crank bold and had to replace half of engine to get to it.
Takes one man two wrenches and that crank bolt comes of easy. No need for impact. Also you need something to hold pulley to tighten the crank bolt back to spec.

 

It rained here today so I went out on a drive to get the undercarriage clean. Worked like a charm. I'll be calling the dealer later this week. I'll keep y'all updated.