Anyone into R/C?

Only ones I can find are the actual mounts for the Summit, no adapters or anything. Weird.

There are a few guys on RCC that run them so I may try PMing them.

Thanks for the reply! If you run across the adapters you're talking about let me know!

Fink

 

When I plug it into the "batt" spot it doesn't go to full lock, it just barely moves a little. If I keep plugging it in then unplugging it then eventually I can make it get to full lock.

 

I wish I had it in front of me, but it "sounds" like your servo is crapped out. Any hobby shop would be able to test it for you before buying another, if you have a local shop.

 

Na nothing local to me. We are headed on a trip this weekend so I may see if there's something along the way we can stop into real quick and check it out. I appreciate the info though.

 

Take it out (steering servo) and carry it with you for someone to test. Sorry couldn't be more help.

 

This is that kit built to replicate the topgear hilux.

(Dude custom'd the whole body)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnL0D3lIn6I&feature=g-u-u

 

No I appreciate it. I wouldn't have thought to take it and have it tested. I really want to learn more about these things but just haven't had the time to spend on them. The plan is to build a Wraith kit for myself at some point so the son and I can run them together.

So lets say it is crapped out. Any recommendations on a replacement that won't die in acouple months?

 

I would look into hitec servos. thats all I run in all my r/cs damn near, find one in your price range and you should be good to go (assuming thats whats bad).

 

Hitec is the most popular. I would take a look at Hobbico though, now that I know they are pretty much the same thing.

Fink

 

Hitec for durability and value. PowerHD for power, decent quality and Inolab for lightning fast. I run inolabs in my helicopter and my fingers cannot move as fast as they can.


Also if you run lipos....consider a high voltage servo to eliminate the need for a regulator.

 

have you connected the servo to the esc channel and the esc to the steering channel, to make sure your channel on the reciever works.
if the reciever works you will have forward/reverse with the steering control, shows both channel 1,2 working properly (because you said forward/reverse do work so they should work in any channel).
if the servo works it will turn left right by going forward /reverse on your transmitter, if the servo does nothing its fried, stock axial servos can be bad overall (ppl never replace a fried axial servo with another axial they upgrade, traxxas for ex: you replace with traxxas and your good), I ran my scx10 with stock servo and never had a problem but maybe yours is a lemon that was waiting to fail.

just imo you can check/test it like that always worked for me

 

So I got the SC8 in today!

Quick question, I'm charging my battery 20c 5000mHa. What is the total capacitance of the battery?

I got the Hitech X-1 charger and its showing the capacity of the battery. What number should I see at the end of the charge? 5000?

Thanks for the help?

 

As long as your cells are right around 4.2 volts, you're fine. It will charge in the ballpark of 5000mah (ratings are only "Scientific" guesstimates)

 

Thanks Keith!



Here is a pic of the charger and what it's reading.

 

Is it showing the total capacity, or only the milliamperes that you have put into the pack, I'd wager the latter. If that's the case the number will be considerably lower. Is this 20c pack your charging for the SC8? If so your prolly gonna want a higher C rated pack, that's a big/heavy model.

 

I posted a link last page about Solar servos.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/solar.html

No sure of your torque requirements.

 

Correct it's the charge being put into the pack. Yeah I figured I would need to. I just happen to get these for a really cheap price. $25 each Neighbor did want them. Thanks T!

 

They will run the model, and will be fine until you can get some others, but it may be a tad soft off the bottom end. By comparison, I run at least 40c in 1/10 scale models.

 

Thanks again! Shopping for batteries now.

One more question on the batteries.

If I were to get (2) 40c 2s 5000mAh and ran them in series, would that give me 40c 4s 10000mAH charged battery? Or would it double everything?

 

Connecting in Series
When connecting your batteries in Series you are doubling the voltage while maintaining the same capacity rating (amp hours). This might be used in a scooter, Power Wheels kids vehicle, or other applications. Just use a jumper wire between the negative of the first battery and the positive of the second battery. Run your negative wire off of the open connector from the first battery and your positive off of the open connector on your second battery.

Connecting in Parallel
When connecting in Parallel you are doubling the capacity (amp hours) of the battery while maintaining the voltage of one of the individual batteries. This would be used in applications such as laptop batteries, some scooters, some ups backups, etc. Use a jumper wire between the positives of both batteries and another jumper wire between the negatives of both batteries. Connect your positive and negative wires to the same battery to run to your application.