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How To: Secondary Stand Alone Fuse Block Install

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by H2Otx, Oct 27, 2010.

Page 3 of 14
  1. May 1, 2012 at 5:07 PM
    #41
    whereismymind

    #41
    whereismymind Well-Known Member

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    Any reason for not running the aux. fuse box inside the cab? Is there just not a good spot for it?

    Seems to me there would be more wires going to it from inside vs. ones coming from the engine. Obviously depending on personal accessories.
     
    whereismymind, May 1, 2012
    #41
  2. May 1, 2012 at 5:59 PM
    #42
    Sandman614

    #42
    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Or put a relay on the components that you want to work only with Key ON
     
    Sandman614, May 1, 2012
    #42
  3. May 1, 2012 at 6:34 PM
    #43
    H2Otx

    #43
    H2Otx [OP] The Tinkerer

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    Well with any customization it all comes down to personal preference / selection of personal accessories.

    BUT, IMHEO I would put the fuse block inside the engine bay in any scenario. Typically you would be running high amp loads or collectively a high amp load on this block and heat would be generated from all the connections at this one junction. This one junction is the fused source for all of your devices (the buck stops with it). If anything shorted on it and your breaker fails, then you have a potential fire hazard.

    Also, there is not many place inside the cab to place something this size and give enough clearance to safely connect everything. And lets be honest if there are enough spaces in the cab you are going to want to use those for your accessories (speaker amp, HAM unit, tools, etc.)

    I designed this for the average "bear," or Taco in this case. One that would have accessories both internal and external.

    For my application the fused sources are:
    5 amp - Switch Panel (
    2.5 amp - Radar Detector
    10 amp - HAM Radio
    10 amp - HID Light Force 140 (FR - fog)
    10 amp - HID Light Force 140 (FR - driving)
    10 amp - HID Light Force 140 (RR - backup)
    10 amp - air compressor

    This is my v1.0 and as my list of accessories grow I might have to make a v2.0 as I might want to upgrade the stereo. But I might have to run that separate.
     
    H2Otx, May 1, 2012
    #43
  4. May 9, 2012 at 12:38 AM
    #44
    thebaker

    #44
    thebaker Well-Known Member

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    sub'd
     
    thebaker, May 9, 2012
    #44
  5. May 9, 2012 at 12:52 AM
    #45
    Wallygater

    #45
    Wallygater Well-Known Member

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    I installed one inside my old 2007 dbl cab in the plastic bin behind the rear driver side passenger seat. I put it in a box I picked up at radio shack. I mounted it in there because I was worried about water and the elements messing it up if it was under the hood. My fears were unwarranted.

    It worked ok there but I won't be putting it there in my 2011. I took the plastic things out from behind there for more room. The downsides of putting it in the cab are you have to run wires into the cab and depending on how many accessories you have, it could be a lot of wires. That opens your cab up to water penetration. Also there is a fire risk (as mentioned) and given a choice, I would rather have a fire in the engine bay then where my family sits. :cool:
     
    Wallygater, May 9, 2012
    #45
  6. May 9, 2012 at 12:54 AM
    #46
    Twistedfreedom

    #46
    Twistedfreedom welcome to the incredibuild

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    Sub'd cause my engine bay looks like an octopus orgy
     
    Twistedfreedom, May 9, 2012
    #46
    NathanG223 and Beretta4x4 like this.
  7. May 9, 2012 at 5:25 AM
    #47
    Namyo

    #47
    Namyo -

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    :laugh:
     
    Namyo, May 9, 2012
    #47
  8. May 9, 2012 at 5:40 AM
    #48
    MarAgt

    #48
    MarAgt Well-Known Member

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    Sub
     
    MarAgt, May 9, 2012
    #48
  9. May 9, 2012 at 8:41 AM
    #49
    Large

    #49
    Large Red

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    Looks similar to mine.

    [​IMG]

    #4 AWG 'Dekoron' brand, Burndy lugs, Burndy crimpers, cable management (somewhat), looks better now. I'll try to take a better pic.
     
    Large, May 9, 2012
    #49
  10. May 14, 2012 at 10:41 PM
    #50
    ROGU3 PR3DATOR

    #50
    ROGU3 PR3DATOR Space Shuttle Door Gunner

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    Finally got around to doing this mod. Followed this how to as a basic guide. Here is how it turned out. If anyone sees something that doesn't seem right, let me know. But as far as I can tell everything is golden...

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    ROGU3 PR3DATOR, May 14, 2012
    #50
    Kolunatic and timinNC like this.
  11. May 21, 2012 at 7:16 PM
    #51
    bitejr138

    #51
    bitejr138 CTID

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    ...and mine.


    [​IMG]
     
    bitejr138, May 21, 2012
    #51
    timinNC likes this.
  12. May 21, 2012 at 7:26 PM
    #52
    The1youluv2hate

    #52
    The1youluv2hate Well-Known Member

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    Thats Clean set up :thumbsup:
     
    The1youluv2hate, May 21, 2012
    #52
  13. May 21, 2012 at 7:27 PM
    #53
    Coupe

    #53
    Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Lots baby!
    Nice write up!
     
    Coupe, May 21, 2012
    #53
  14. May 30, 2012 at 4:05 PM
    #54
    bitejr138

    #54
    bitejr138 CTID

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    Thanks man...that was a full day's work and totally worth it!

    Here are the links to the parts I used:
    Battery terminal blocks
    Monster 300 Positive SlimLine Monster Battery Terminal (MPC P300 SLM BC3+)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIGB94
    Monster 300 Negative SlimLine Monster Battery Terminal (MPC P300 SLM BC3-)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIGBA8
    Ring terminals
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIGB3A
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIIATS
    Circuit breaker
    $45 Stinger SCBM100 100-AMP Marine Circuit Breaker
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LARRTE
    and Fuse Block
    $41 Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
     
    bitejr138, May 30, 2012
    #54
    GonzoQuick likes this.
  15. May 30, 2012 at 9:51 PM
    #55
    IKMtacoma

    #55
    IKMtacoma Well-Known Member

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    whats the best way to run a switch into the cab to the empty slots beside the power mirror pad for grill lights? I am thinking about getting the BDF Light bar for behind the grill (the one being made by BAMF) and want to know what is the best / cleanest way to do this.

    DSC00170.jpg
    P1010119.jpg
     
    IKMtacoma, May 30, 2012
    #55
  16. May 30, 2012 at 11:15 PM
    #56
    ROGU3 PR3DATOR

    #56
    ROGU3 PR3DATOR Space Shuttle Door Gunner

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    Run the wires through the firewall where the rest of the wires run through.
     
    ROGU3 PR3DATOR, May 30, 2012
    #56
  17. Oct 28, 2012 at 2:40 PM
    #57
    ryrydtl

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    ryrydtl Well-Known Member

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    IMG_7774_d1c418146cb71a6c5eb7d62786b53a484eb47444.jpg
    IMG_7778_3becef94fec2dedd9e64f379e80dd4ee2c7f70b3.jpg
     
    ryrydtl, Oct 28, 2012
    #57
    GonzoQuick, timinNC and WHOISTYLER like this.
  18. Oct 28, 2012 at 5:26 PM
    #58
    wilnbroc

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    wilnbroc Well-Known Member

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    Did you make that bracket or order it somewhere?
     
    wilnbroc, Oct 28, 2012
    #58
  19. Oct 28, 2012 at 10:57 PM
    #59
    Drunknsloth

    #59
    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    That is clean!
     
    Drunknsloth, Oct 28, 2012
    #59
  20. Dec 9, 2012 at 3:52 AM
    #60
    jim.harris

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    jim.harris Member

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    Nice write up, and some super clean installs. This is near the top of my "to do" list and you guys have given me some good ideas. Cheers
     
    jim.harris, Dec 9, 2012
    #60
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