Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Yes you are right. 3-link does articulate better..

But, I know you have ran into numerous problems with your three link system... sometimes they aren't always easier

 

Granted, nothing is ever easy when your trying to put something that was not in the oringinal design concept of a vehicle especially when you were the first with said vehicle, however, once it was designed and put together it works flawlessly now and has been copied time and again.

Trying to put a four link either in the front of one of these trucks or in the rear of one of these trucks has many issues. First, if you use a triangulated system in the front you'll have to have the truck sitting too high to be of any use because of where the engine sits. Second, if you use a parallel system, you will need to run a panhard bar to keep the axle from moving side to side. Now you have five links instead of four links.

In the rear if you use a four link triangulated system you will have to move the fuel tank to get it to work or you can just have a truck that is sitting really high to make it work. Then again running a parallel four link system you have to run a panhard bar.

To me it's just simpler and better to run a three link as opposed to any four link system.

Not trying to bash on you. Your one of the few who were brave enough to step out and tackle something like this by yourself. just want everyone to have enough information to make a decision on how to approach their projects.

 

What is the typical cost of trying to do a home brewed 3 link?

 

I see, I see. You are the brave one, cutting up an 05 first week off the lot!

Anywho, thanks.

Rear, front? Both?

 

Just the front. Also, in my shopping/searching I have more questions. Aside from axle shafts, knuckle service kit, and a 3rd member rebuild/re-gearing, what else should I be purchasing and from where to do a complete rebuild for this axle I bought?

 

Typical cost for the front 3 Link I would say would be around $1500 or more depending on if you make your brackets. Heims aren't cheap and neither are C/Os.

And parts can be purchased from numerous places I believe. I know http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/service-parts For sure

You will want the trunion eliminator kit too, and axle ball gussets

 

For $1,500 it sounds like I am better off just going with leaf since I won't be doing hard core rock crawling. Since you mentioned Trail-Gear to me a while ago I have been shopping them mostly and marlin crawler. For the Marlin Crawler stuff does the pick up also fall under the Hilux parts?

 

Yeah CO's are no joke on price. Leafs can be done for like half that or less. And leafs work great, I love my leaf springs, haven't let me down yet, and they aren't even set-up properly...

Hilux and pickup I believe are the same thing. Call them if you need to they are good guys there.

 

Right on man, good lookin' out. Do you see any major issues running 4.88's on a 27 spline axle for 35's? Or for that matter 5.29's?

edit: Just read an article here http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/129_0409_birfield_eliminator_kit_install/index.html and now I am confused if the front diff is a 30 or 27 spline axle carrier. WTF. FML. Mind=blown.

 

I would run 5.29's Lower is usually better. I regret not going lower IMO. And I'm at 5.38s on 39s...

The diff is what ever it is, the difference in spline count they are talking about is on the outer splines. Usually if you run 30 spline you may need to grind the knuckle a littler since they are bigger shafts to fit. If you have the extra money get the 30 spline... They are only like $60 more. Also if you buy axles, get them from longfield axle... trust me, he has the best.

Like my dana 44 has 19 spline outer, 30 spline inner. I can upgrade to 30 spline outer but........... $$$ for me.

 

So essentially if I stay with the Birfield's I would have a 27 spline inner and a could use a 30 spline outer if I so chose to? I would prefer to run chromoly 30 spline axles for that peace of mind while out and about. The other thing too is that this 22RE is (maybe) pushing 100bhp so would 5.29's be overkill? I am trusting you on this cause I don't have shit for a clue of what I'm doing with SAS and I've read through your build maybe 50 times.

 

I don't think you can use the original inners (maybe) but you would need to replace the CV joint, since I believe it is different. (I really have no clue) It only would make sense to me in order to use the bigger outer, the CV would need to be bigger.

I would call longfield and verify what I said above, ^ since I am not sure..

Also, If you are concerned with it go with 5.13s? Instead of 5.29s. My truck only has 145BHp and 5.38s are not low enough. Lower gear ratio = more control.

Are you driving it on the road?

 

5.13's might not be a bad idea. As of right now no. When it's all said and done the only road time it will see is to and from trails local to me in AZ. No interstate/freeway driving for this rig.

 

What size tire are you wanting to run? My buddies crawler/DD has a 22R on propane. He's running 36in Iroks with 5.29's and he said that it's right at stock, maybe just a little more pep. He also has 4.7's in the case and his rig does great!

As far as the three link, you'll have a pretty penny in it but it's well worth it! Linke SupreTT said, the shocks are pricey and the joints are a kick in the nuts... especially since there's so many of them.

 

End goal was going to be 35'' tires, on 5'' of lift, running 5.29's, on a Detroit locker and probably 5 more years down the road dual transfers. The axle spline count is what has me worried about doing that. If I can run chomoly 30 spline axles then I'll do it. Also planning on running a rear Detroit as well (but I guess that is a given).

 

Gotcha, sounds like a clean setup and you definitely doing it right... My buddy is running stock shafts in his right now. So far he's only busted one shaft, but he was just being stupid when he did that. I think he's doing the Dirty 30's here in a few months just so that it would be one less thing to worry about.

 

Make sure you get chromo tcase output shafts.. learned the hard way with a single case..upgraded to a double case when we switched out the broken shaft

 

Oh yeah, THIS ^

 

here are the options for your toy front axle:
stock inner shafts with stock birfs
stock inner shafts with chromoly 27 spline birfs
chromoly inner shafts with chromoly 27 spline birfs
chromoly inner shafts with chromoly 30 spline birfs(trail gear dirty 30's and longfield 30 spline axle shaft set)
if you have the cash go straight to either tg dirty 30's or the longfield 30 spline axles, well worth the money. couple friends of mine just run stock birfs and maybe break 1 or 2 a year but that is being really careful on the rocks, they are both getting 30 spline axles soon though.

5.29's and 35's are perfect for a 22re and even the 3.0, thats what i wish i put in my truck, and i have 4.88's with 35's. you have a choice of 4.88's to 5.29's they do not make anything in between for toy axles. hope that helps if you have any other question feel free to ask me.

 

You'll want hydro assist steering too the 85 4runner my dad I built we went with

30 spline longfields
Front arb
Rear detroit
5:29 gears
4.7 transfer case gears
Hi steer but looking to get hydro.

I've got my own sas'd 88 4runner with 4.7 gears in the transfer case and locked rear but just stock everything else other than hi steer.


Sounds like you have a good plan though