Measurement Help Please

Can anyone tell what the measurements, length, etc. for a '05 DCLB 4wd Driveshaft weld to weld is?

Or tell me where I could get that information?

I candy-caned mine at Rausch Creek PA this weekend and am trying to find a replacement.

 

and why you no measure yours?

just bring it to a shop and have them retube it and be done if it is bent that bad......
i have c.c. mine more then once and have no ill effects from it.....

 

What type of shop? How much $ for "retubing"...My CC looks deeper than those do....

I found a used "propeller shaft" this am for $400.00....

 

not sure look for drive shaft shops by you....
i think some guys down south got there retubed for just over a $100
other guys found theres on here from $75 -$300

 

Found a shop in Harrisburg, will Retube for $150!!!

 

woot....
we still want pics

 

fair price

 

That includes rebalancing front and back shafts...and he'll get me a good price on the U-Joints!

 

Pics coming...I should get them this afternoon....

 

He said he will retube the rear shaft section and rebalance the whole shaft together......

 

How do you figure that works?

 

For proper DL geometry those two halves of the shaft need to be nearly parallel, otherwise you'll get vibes, there's nothing to cancel the middle u-joints ellipse so it needs to operate at an almost 0* angle. Mine are very close without dropping the carrier. Some drop an inch or so. Either way those two shafts are nearly parallel and acting very similar to a one piece shaft. So if you go to a true one piece shaft you're unlikely to lose very much clearance, if any at all. Unless I'm mistaken.

 

The only way you'd gain more clearance is to use a double cardan, hack out the crossmember for the DL and tuck it up. Otherwise the stock two piece is basically a one piece with the support in the middle. They both have to be straight from yoke to yoke. Just saying...

 

lol



A is a one piece shaft

B is a two piece shaft with both pieces being parallel like the Tacoma

C is a two piece shaft that would tuck up but the only way to do that on the Tacoma is with a DC joint at the t-case, and then fab your own crossmember. There isn't enough room to tuck the first shaft up enough to get the u-joint even near a 0* angle so a DC at the t-case would have to be used.

Yours may not be exactly parallel but that's the design behind our DLs and if yours is tucked up a little more because you lifted and changed angles ever so slightly, that may be, however it's not off more than a couple degrees or it wouldn't drive nicely at all.

 

I agree option C would be a good one if you ran a double cardan joint at the t-case but what I'm saying is our stock shafts come as option B from Toyota so if you go a one piece you're not changing much except eliminating that carrier bearing, if you lose clearance it would hardly be measurable.

Unless you're saying rather than change from stock (option B) to a single piece you'd rather run option C, then that I can understand.

I'm just saying stock (if both shafts are parallel as intended by spicer) and a onesie are not going to be any different clearance wise, or at least any significant difference.

I've scraped my shaft too FWIW.

 

Great discussion on the thread I started but I'll be going with:


C