Overhead Compass/Temp Fix

Do you solder on the back side of the circuit board?
If so, the board needs to remove completely. How do I get it out of the plastic holder?
Thanks
notsew_evets@frontiernet.net

 

I just bridged the gap between the 510 resistor and the board with the tinyest drop of solder and bingo it worked.

 

I got so far as to have the circuit board in my hand. The 510 resistors were HOT..
I pushed in on the 510s and the display came on, for a few minutes. Then went off....
My above question is "do I remove the board from the case and solder on the backside?
Thanks again

 

Im trying to remember how I did mine. I had just the board in my hand when I soldered it and I soldered it from the side the resistor is seated on.

 

I will remove it again and take a real close look. Solder on the resistor side.........

 

Took about five minutes to remove the thing (again).
Pop off 'd the circuir board completely. Theres no way to do anything to the rear side of the board.
I looked at the resistors on the face of the board by using a magnifying glass. I could not see anything wrong.
I said to myself, "Self, if you solder and it doesnt work, soooo?."
I took my old pencil soldering iron and dropped a very small amount of lead to each side of the two 510 resistors.
Reinstalled and IT WORKS !
For now anyway......
If it dies again I ll be back on this post.
Again THANKS for helping.

 

No additional testimony really needed, but here's one more.

2007 with 70K miles and the temp/compass quit. Took it off and it was identical to all the pics and descriptions above. The outboard edge of one 510 resister was loose and the other resister looked to be not far behind. I am not good at soldering but this was easy to re-connect the edges.

Thanks again for the tips.

BTW, looked like someone had been into mine before (bought used) or it was assembled improperly as one of the 4 plastic clips holding the smoke colored lens in place was pinched inside the unit.

 

Thanks for saving me $900. I followed your instructions exactly and it worked Thanks, Thanks, Thanks

 

This was a awesome thread. Was dealing with the same $900 repair bill and decided to search for a solution. Found this thread and joined!

When I took the whole thing apart, there was no visible damage to the resistor. So I plugged it back in and pushed on the resistor and voila, it worked (be warned, the resistor gets very hot!). So I just soldered both sides anyway and it worked great. About a 15 minute fix...awesome.

Have some confidence now...looking at some mods maybe.

jrjones

 

Here's what mine looked like before I soldered it . . . and thanks OP for posting this fix.

 

I thought I would point out an interesting post for those who don't have an accessory meter in their trucks....this fellow did a fine job of installing an outside temp display:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/4838-cheap-free-mods-62.html#post5180560

I looked up the ebay seller to find the devices; here are your two options (these are outside temp only, and come with a temp probe that you will need to run through your firewall and install)

Blue display
Red display

Both auctions are ending soon as I write this, but I would guess they will be relisted.

Note that they are shipping from China, so it can take a long time to arrive. I have waited up to two months before receiving parts orders from Hong Kong, although that is generally extreme. Also, if something in your order doesn't work you are usually SOL as return shipping generally costs more than the part. I haven't had any issues, personally.

-greg

We repair Tacoma temperature / compass displays

 

I'm so great full to belong to TW. All of you are just AWESOME!!! The Kozman.
By the way anybody that had said Welcome some time ago. Thank you.
This site is incredible. Me and my 06 Taco Love you all.

 

Did they improve this on the newer trucks?

 

Supposedly from the 2009s on there was a redesign that corrected the issue. *But*...I have repaired a 2009 accessory meter, and it was the exact same defect. The board was similar, but components were arranged a bit differently. The EMI shields were removed from the magnetic detectors also...probably to save money.

However, there may just be a few 2009's with this version of the board. I guess we will find out in a year or so when/if the late model boards start failing.

 

All of the instructions were spot on. I chose to buy the part because I have to soldering experience. $167.00 with CA tax. Took 5 minutes to replace. Old part was broken in exact spot specified, small burn mark in corner of screen. Thank you all for the advice

 

Should have been a recall on the first one.

 

Agreed. What's interesting (in a bad sort of way) is that Ford was buying circuit boards from the same manufacturer for years (2001 to '05 I think) using a similar layout and design; same failure point. However, Ford stopped using the problem boards. Whether that was by chance or intention, I don't know.

What I'm certain of is that *someone* at Toyota has known for a few years that this failure point exists...and didn't do anything.

I have only designed a few basic circuits in my time (more simple than this one) and I know that a.) hotspots are a problem b.) RoHS solder is weak and very subject to thermal stresses.

This board design... *that somehow has been used for over a decade*.. should never have made it past the prototype phase.

 

Not trying to sound like a conspiracist, but you can thank the various "one world" nanny state organiztions for the lead-solder bans.

The Asian countries were among the first to jump on the bandwagon. It is going to start showing up in all electronics and probably already has.

Where in the 1980s you could buy stereo equipment that would last for life if cared for, the idea of 3 years and throwaway is now becoming common place.

Another problem with the lead free solder is that it can grow tiny metallic fingers or "whiskers" over time which causes shorts in a lot of today's super compact circuit layouts. If you don't believe me, look that up.

Even the US Military is concerned over how to deal with the problems with lead free solder.

 

My husband produces circuit boards for a living and he works with lead-free solder all the time. And yes...it's already out there and will be the wave of the future. American companies are already using it because they can't sell their products over-seas without it. No...it is NOT a throw-away mentality. Lead-free will be here to stay and the technology that goes along with that will need to adapt to make it more durable. You can't just slap lead-free solder and build a board the same way as the leaded. It's something to work with. I can't speak for details....

My husband fixed my overhead compass this past spring and he was shocked the VERY POOR quality workmanship on these boards.

Toyota doesn't build the boards. The work is contracted out to manufacturers. Manufacturers BID on jobs to win a contract/job. And obviously...companies want to save money. Toyota bids on the lowest bid. The manufacturer skimps on the work because they're not making much money on a low bid job/contract.

You can't blame the lead-free. Blame the manufacturing process/company who build these boards for doing a shitty job!!

 

i agree!!

i cant solder. not even a debate. i tried and it was horrible.
however i have a good friend that can. he is like Janster's man. he builds prototype circuit boards for a living. he pulled out some tools, a microscope and fixed my compass/temp board with ease. he commented on the lack of quality. he actually went in and cleaned up and reinforced a few points for me. no troubles since. if anyone dropped the ball, it is the QA idiot overseeing the solder work.