Interest in shackle flip for 05+ Taco???

That's the beauty here, it can be mounted for a slew of shackle angles.

This pic...


was with this shackle angle at rest.


It can be moved forward 7/8" to provide a couple more mounting options that allow for a little more or a little less angle. There's too many variables to say that the shackle will have "X" angle with this flip.

If you bolt it on where it is here and you want a little more angle, but the next hole is too far, then unbolt it and slide it forward on the frame. Same thing if you want a little less angle but the next one back is too far, then move the hanger and that same hole is a little closer. Same applies if it's already mounted forward on the frame. Slide it back and the same thing happens.

Shackle angle really comes down to preference and will have to be found through a little trial and error to suit each set up. Throw a non factory Toyota shackle in there and it starts all over.

 

What happens to the compression side in the picture does the shackle rest against the bracket

 

See all the holes in the bracket? Well those are adjustment holes. You mount these brackets and use the supplied adjustment holes to insure you have a correct set-up. If you don't know how to do that, you should take it to a reputable shop and have them do it.

If your shackle angle is incorrect and parts are hitting other parts after these are installed, you installed them wrong, its that simple.

 

Suscribed. My flip kits are on there way.

Cam-shaft.

 

His bracket is 3" ID the stock shackle hanger is 3.25 OD so I was just wandering if under compression it was going hit the bracket. I see all the holes but the holes do not make it simple.

 

it seems that his concern is what happens when the shackle rotates toward the rear. will it hit the bracket.

question would be, under compression, how much movement rearward does the shackle actually move, and will the bracket be in the way preventing complete movement.

 

I think perhaps some may be over complicating this or perhaps I'm over simplifying. I just don't see the concern, as a concern. Maybe fabjunckie can explain better than I.

 

another question i have...

how does this effect the stuffing of the tires? has this setup effected that aspect at all? i've only seen droop photos, nothing showing the other side of his truck.

i don't know why it would have a huge effect on it, but i'm curious

from what i've seen in other rigs that have the flip, there is no effect.

 

even if they do hit, it looks like you could shave off the last hole...idk who would be using the last hole according to how the shackles sit in the pics

 

One concern about compression is how much, if any, does the leaf go into negative arch, which is not good for the leaf pack.

my buddies first gen had that problem when he went with longer shackles, and went back to stock cuz the leaf pack was going almost an inch into negative arch, which can cause excess stress on the springs.

 

He couldn't adjust his bumps to counteract this? or by doing so it would of limited his travel thus making it useless?

 

subbed for interest

 

I dont think he wanted to lose that up-travel, plus the longer shackles made him site stick bug, so he went back to stock shackles.

 

having a longer shackle without adjusting the location of the upper pivot will make the spring go into more negative arch given the same shock set up.

 

You can make the shackle hit the hanger if you have it mounted wrong. I've insured that the shackle does not hit in the reasonable settings. If you go extreme with it, like your shackle being at 20* from horizontal or something ridiculous like that, then yes the shackle will hit. Your truck will also ride like crap. Once you get into longer shackles, even the stock Chevy one, it's near impossible to hit the shackle on the hanger if you try.

The springs do go negative, the same as they do once a truck is lifted in any form without the bumpstop being addressed. The spring's arc will only go so far one way or the other, regardless of what is attached them. Just as with any suspension modification, bump stops need to be addressed accordingly.

The eye to eye measurement of the spring at full arc and at full extension is going to dictate how much the shackle moves.

 

Fab junkie I hope I'm not stepping on your toes here but figured I'd throw out my observations on some of the questions posted and see your take on them. If you object just let me know and I'll remove the post.

I experimented awhile back with a similar bracket setup and experienced the exact problems someone questioned. With a long adjustable bracket like that the shackle would come in contact with the bracket under compression.

It's just my opinion but I think your running to steep an angle in the pics when it's sitting level under its own weight. The shackle should be back closer to a 45 deg angle. Under full droop you want the shackle just before full vertical. If you go past vertical at all you run the risk of inverting the shackle when the truck sets back down which will destroy the spring in the process. So ideally the shackle should be moved a hole forward from where it's mounted and then I'd be willing to bet that under compression it will contact the bracket.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to knock your stuff just making sure your testing it to its full extent since its such a vital part of proper suspension operation which in turn directly relates to vehicle safety.

Again this is all just my opinion from previous testing.

 

I don't see the last hole being an issue, and probably won't be used by most people, but you could shave it if you want. There was a void in the middle of the bracket no matter which way you mounted it, so I added the fourth hole in the production model. This way there is a continuous adjustment front to rear in 1/4"-7/8" increments for over 7.5" total. Most guys would be proud of that...

 

Thanks for the interest and concern. I understand everyone's issue on the shackle angle, but it really comes down to personal preference. Some will want it at 45*, some will want it more like a stock shackle angle on vehicles that come with the shackle already mounted like this from the factory. I have never seen a truck/SUV/car come out of the factory with a 45* shackle angle. They are usually closer to vertical. This allows shackle/spring travel both ways. The closer the shackle is to horizontal, the more compression you will have and vice versa. Where we have the test truck sitting, ride height is right in the middle of full compression and full droop, right where you want it.

If the shackle is staying just shy of going past vertical at full droop, then you are not getting full droop. As long as the shackle doesn't go too far past vertical, the spring will push it back and not allow it to invert. This is something I payed close attention to in our testing and it never was close or even tried to invert.

As far as moving it to another hole, I think something some may be overlooking is that the hanger can move on the frame which essentially gives you more mounting holes between the ones shown in relation to the spring eye.

All of these issues could be replicated with these hangers, if it's set up at the extreme. If mounted reasonably and with a little common sense, they should not be concerns.

 

As long as you cycle it full droop and try to get the shackle as vertical as possible, but just a little shy of it, and have the shackle on the rear most hole as you can so it doesnt risk binding on the bracket, you should be good. Stock leaf packs are hard to cycle for full bump because when you take apart the leaf pack and cycle with the main leaf, you need to take into account the space that the rest of the leaf pack takes up between the main leaf and the axle. What not to do is have the shackle angle RJ has at full droop:



His shackles are far from vertical.

 

^^^Exactly

This pic is at full droop to go with the two pics above.